Beko fridge/freezer

Cliddy

Can anyone help?
We have a Beko fridge freezer, basically the problem is the compressor won't switch off. The thermostat has no effect. It's keeping everything cold, but I have to switch it off overnight in case it overheats.
My obvious first thing to look at was the thermostat. So I've replaced that easily to no effect.
Next is probably the compressor itself. Any replacement is probably going to be beyond me and any callout is not going to be cost effective.
Any ideas before I have to get a new one.

EssexExile

Is it getting to temperature? It may be staying on because it isn't cold enough, in which case the compressor or the pipework are at fault. You can't fix that yourself.

that

I'd like to know how you replaced the thermostat? are they are not all he cables and pipework foamed in?

psychic_teabag

I would first want to quantify your statement that "It's keeping everything cold". Have you got a thermometer that confirms that temperature is low enough.

As you say, the obvious problem is that the thermostat is not turning off once the required temperature is reached. This is presumably the case even if the dial is set to the highest temperature. If that was the case, and the compressor was working normally, I'd expect the fridge to be getting too cold.

It seems unlikely that a fault in the compressor would keep it running even when there is no demand for cooling. But if the compressor was worn out and couldn't acheive the required temperature, that would explain why it could keep running.

Is the heat exchanger at the back warm ? Could anything be hindering air circulation which would allow the waste heat to be dissipated ?

Another possibility could be broken seals, so that the cold air is escaping and being replaced by warm air, which is why it has to keep cooling without actually getting any colder.

psychic_teabag

that wrote: »

I'd like to know how you replaced the thermostat? are they are not all he cables and pipework foamed in?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9S_F9j0yDDQ

Cliddy

Many thanks for replies. I forgot to set the switch to get email prompts when someone replied, so assumed no-one had !
To answer some of your points.
Changing the thermostat was easy, it's inside the dial module in the fridge.
The fridge is definitely cooling. On any setting it's freezing everything that shouldn't be frozen. Orange juice, bananas and probably the wine when I try it tonight.
The thing keeps running throughout the day, non stop, hence my need to switch it off at night.
I've pulled out and checked the coils they are remarkably clean and only slightly warm. It's been in the same well aired and spacious location for 4 years now.
Yes I have got s fridge thermometer. It shows at the very peek of the recommended temperature and sometimes beyond.
The only reason it keeps this "low" is due to regular temperature checking and it being off at night.
To sum up the temperature in the fridge is far too cold on any setting and the compressor is in all day.
I have ordered a new one and it's not too late to cancel if anyone has a brainwave.
Calling someone out is not an option. Their basic call out charges make it uneconomical plus any parts they try out.

psychic_teabag

I suppose one experiment to try, if you are confident, is to simply remove the thermostat entirely. I'm assuming the thermostat behaves like a simple switch : closed when it wants the compressor to run (too warm), open when it is cold enough. So if you remove the thermostat and leave the wires disconnected, that would be equivalent to the thermostat reporting that it was cold enough. If the compressor runs despite this, perhaps it's a short somewhere in the wiring ?

Note: only try this if you know your way round electrics. It may well be mains voltages, so unplug before detaching anything, and protect any bare wires before turning things back on. Check the wiring diagram for your particular model, if you can find it.


if you have a multimeter, you could try things like
https://www.hunker.com/13407508/how-to-troubleshoot-a-refrigerator-thermostat

(just because the replacement thermostat was new doesn't necessarily mean it actually works...)

Cliddy

I really appreciate the response, but I think I'll stop short of that idea. I'm quite happy disconnecting etc the thermostat carefully. But any findings or possible solutions are going to be beyond me anyway and therefore back to a call out option.
Which I might as well done in the first place, but ruled out for cost effectiveness reasons.
I had thought of the double faulty thermostat and I'm now on the 3rd one as a result. Returnable thanks to the wonders of Amazon.
Many thanks for your help but I'm going to let the replacement freezer go ahead now.
Cheers.

that

Thanks psychic teabag, but that vid would no work on mine, if it went faulty.

looking at the diagram, it is all about the thermostat. if you want something different, and you may have to drill a hole in the fridge, look on ebay for Inkbird ITC308 or Inkbird ITC308s

Cliddy

Ok, thought I'd add one last word (from me), just in case this thread is of interest to anyone else. The fridge/freezer in my case is a Beko. Changing the thermostat is very easy, even for me. With no electrical risk at all (assuming you follow the obvious safety measures). It's on the inside roof of the fridge and cheap to replace.
However not sure whether it would work at all disconnecting it.
Also looking at physic teabags wiring diagram of a standard fridge it shows me even more not to touch it any further, there's at least one other thermostat hidden in his diagram!!!

that

there are often 2 heaters : the first is between the door and the door frame (where the magnet seal touches). if you put your hand on that area where the seal touches the frame it feels warm. this is designed so that if any water collects on the seal not to freeze the seal to the door. on this circuit this only comes into heat mode once the thermostat switches off. there is a thermostat in the circuit, think it is there to stop the door edge getting too hot

The second heater and thermostat also only work once the thermostat switches off. this is an element usually by the cooling plate and is for automatically defrosting, and the ice water goes onto a drip tray and often channelled away

both do not affect the operation of the fridge and motor.

Personally I would get my ohmmeter out and with the aid of an hair dryer and ice in a leakproof plastic bag (or freezer spray - it is an cold spray for electronic components, not fridges )

that thermostat wire, it may not be a wire, but a thin pipe. if that pipe is severely kinked or has a hole in it then it will not work.