Buying car to last 15 years?

Angus_Og

AdrianC wrote: »

Let's go back a step. Why are you so fixated on "15 years"?

Seems reasonable length of time.

I normally buy from Copart and have repaired but salvage prices are crazy at the moment.

So my cars tend to come here to end their days. I'll be 60 next year and I just want a nice car that will last a decent length of time. I don't want the hassle of selling it unless it is to Poland or Nigeria where my last two have ended up. I have a good mechanic that I trust so servicing won't be a problem when I step outside the dealer network.

AdrianC

So it's just a random number that sort of fits with "Well, I'll probably stop driving at 75 anyway"?

Gloomendoom

I'm talking proper British Imperial (Long) tons, not Septic tons or Euro tonnes.

AdrianC

Ah, the ton that's exactly 20cwt, rather than the ton (but different ton) that's exactly 20cwt (but different cwt).

Shame the UK definition of a cwt wasn't standardised at 112lb (got to love nice round numbers) until a third of a century after the metric ton, isn't it?

These johnny-come-lately measures, eh? And only explicitly illegal to use for trade in the UK for a third of a century now... A mere irrelevant flash in the pan, with only 150 years of consistent formal definition relevant to just one country in the world.

And even then it's based on another definition, the pound (not to be confused with the pound), which was changed even more recently, before remaining unchanged for less than a century - and was officially redefined as a certain number of grams two-thirds of a century ago... Mind you, it's nearly a century and a quarter since the only other country to use the pound redefined it as (the same!) number of grams...

Nah, I'll stick with the global standard that's been consistent for well over 200 years, ta.

Angus_Og

AdrianC wrote: »

So it's just a random number that sort of fits with "Well, I'll probably stop driving at 75 anyway"?

Well I did think of saying 20 years..........lol, but thought that was optimistic.

If i'm still driving by then (which I hope I will) I assume a wee car will be all I need

Gloomendoom

AdrianC wrote: »

Nah, I'll stick with the global standard that's been consistent for well over 200 years, ta.

You do that if it keeps you happy.

I'll stick to the units in my 1955 Land Rover owner's manual. At least for the purposes of this thread.

parking_question_chap

TheMoonandBack wrote: »

Octavia for me. I’m on my 3rd one. Bought it 3 years old and will run it happily to 150k miles then decide whether to keep going or change (it’ll be about 10 years old then). Service any car properly as stated above and it will last, but there does come a point where you start getting heavier repairs needed such as steering rack/gearbox etc and that’s usually when I bale out.
Octavia Scout if you need ground clearance

What happened to the previous two?

AdrianC

Gloomendoom wrote: »

You do that if it keeps you happy.

I'll stick to the units in my 1955 Land Rover owner's manual. At least for the purposes of this thread.

Great. You stick with your confusing Dibnahs, and I'll stick with the nice sensible kg on the chassis plate of my 88"...

chrisw

A word of warning regarding the Volvo V60 D4s.

The 2014 to 2016 models are suffering from EGR failures and blocked EGR coolers regardless of miles, fuel or driving styles. To be fair, Volvo are currently replacing them under a 100% goodwill contribution, but many cars are now on their 3rd or 4th replacement with no certainty that it's finally fixed.

I've had my 64 reg since new hoping to keep it a while and whilst it's a great comfortable car to drive, I've had 4 EGRs and coolers, a new engine and a new clutch. Fortunately Volvo have been very good and contributed 90% as goodwill despite it being over 4 years old, however, the total bill is somewhere around £10k.

I shall be getting rid quick once the replacement warranty runs out.

Have a read on the Volvo forums:-

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=187

System

WobblyDog wrote: »

Do you have a garage that will keep the car dry, and is the car small enough to fit in it? My impression is that structural rust kills more cars than mechanical problems.

Structural rust hasn't been an issue for donkeys years unless its a Mazda or a Ford Ka. Every car on the market for the last two decades has had a 10 year anti-corrosion warranty and nowadays its quite rare to see even stuff for a few hundred quid with rusty arches and door bottoms unless its spent its life living at the seaside.