Boarding bathroom ceiling

pledgeX

Our current bathroom ceiling has got some horrible old artex effect which has started to split and peel in places, and it’s also gone a bit mouldy in places. I think it’s just surface mould so will scrub it with a bit of bleach. Obviously I’ll try and resolve the cause of the mould, but that’s a separate issue.

Rather than rip it out, I was thinking of just putting plasterboard over it, but I’ve got a couple of questions on this:

1) If the old board is mouldy, will that spread to the new board? Like I say I’ll clean it first, but I’m not sure if it’s just surface.

2) As it’s a bathroom, does it need to be a particular type of plasterboard? E.g. aqua/vapour/moisture board variants?

3) Rather than plaster/skim it, I was planning to just paint the board directly. Again, can this be done, or does it need to be ‘sealed’ in some way because it’s a bathroom? I was planning to use a couple of coats of matt emulsion, then one or two with a bathroom specific paint.

WaywardDriver

PVC cladding?

FreeBear

I'd go for moisture resistant plasterboard. If you insist on overboarding without removing the existing finish, use some plasterboard adhesive in addition to screws. Getting the screws to go through the existing PB and hitting the supporting timbers first time, every time, is going to be your biggest problem. Personally, I'd remove the existing ceiling.


You will need to fill the joints and apply a layer of scrim tape, then skim. Whilst you could just fill the gaps and paint over, it will always look like a half hearted job (some would say a bodge). Get yourself a tub of premixed drywall compound - tip - Fill an empty sealant cartridge with the compound and use a gun to squirt it in to the joints. Slap a thin coat of the compound on the ceiling, and when dry, sponge sand it smooth (have a look at "wet sponge sanding" videos). Dry sanding is messy, real messy.


Don't use the dry bags of jointing compound if you want to sponge sand as it sets rock hard. The ready mixed stuff softens up a little when damp - OK for ceilings and isn't a problem once painted (even in a bathroom).

pledgeX

WaywardDriver wrote: »

PVC cladding?

How would you disguise the join on these (if you can at all)? I don't want the tongue and groove style pieces, I'd want a large single sheet, but a 2400x1200 sheet would still need joining.

FreeBear wrote: »

You will need to fill the joints and apply a layer of scrim tape, then skim. Whilst you could just fill the gaps and paint over, it will always look like a half hearted job (some would say a bodge). Get yourself a tub of premixed drywall compound - tip - Fill an empty sealant cartridge with the compound and use a gun to squirt it in to the joints. Slap a thin coat of the compound on the ceiling, and when dry, sponge sand it smooth (have a look at "wet sponge sanding" videos). Dry sanding is messy, real messy.

Last time I did some interior walls I just used tapered edge board, some scrim tape, and this stuff and was really pleased with the results. Plenty of sanding required but I can't see the join and I know where it is. Would this stuff be suitable for use in a bathroom?

FreeBear

pledgeX wrote: »

Last time I did some interior walls I just used tapered edge board, some scrim tape, and this stuff and was really pleased with the results. Plenty of sanding required but I can't see the join and I know where it is. Would this stuff be suitable for use in a bathroom?

The Wickes stuff is expensive compared to this - https://www.belmoretools.co.uk/acatalog/USG_All_Purpose_Ready_Mixed_Joint_Compound_Green_Top.html


Either would be fine on a bathroom ceiling.

Fire_Fox

Use a proper mould and mildew remover as instructed by the manufacturer rather than scrub with bleach. Scrubbing risks spreading the mould around the room, including on or in you (eyes/ nose/ mouth).