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Electric Heating!
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I have recently had a problem with my gas boiler so went and bought a couple of electric heaters. Even on 2KW they warmed up my room or hall after a couple of hours . I then brought a smaller one from my Therapy room the next day and within 10 mins each room was heated up to my satisfaction. So for people that say it does not matter what you buy, I disagree.0
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I'm not saying that Molerat. Both types could heat at 2kw but the heat from the smaller one was being pushed out more strongly. This meant it heated a room very quickly as opposed to the larger ones.Self Employed, Running my Dream Jobs0
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I'm not saying that Molerat. Both types could heat at 2kw but the heat from the smaller one was being pushed out more strongly. This meant it heated a room very quickly as opposed to the larger ones.
It is more likely that it heated the parts of the room that you wanted warm better than the other heater which probably heated the top of the room more than the floor. The total amount of heat would have been the same with both but the heat distribution was better with the smaller one.0 -
I assume the heaters had fans in them?0
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1 hour +34 minutes for a 1.5K aluminium/steel fluid-filled taken to raise room temperature from 9.2ºC to 21ºC.
So its the time to fill the gap between where I start ?ºC and what ?ºC I want to be.
While a fan is has quick and efficient distribution initially at floor level it quickly is self-driven to ceiling height @ expensive core rate tariff [except Quantum].Disclaimer : Everything I write on this forum is my opinion. I try to be an even-handed poster and accept that you at times may not agree with these opinions or how I choose to express them, this is not my problem. The Disabled : If years cannot be added to their lives, at least life can be added to their years - Alf Morris - ℜ0 -
I have seen this so much recently that I am completely confused.
1kw is 1kw but a 1kw iron won't provide the heat for a room that a 1kw heater will. So efficiency cannot be about the power, but it must be about something more -
Design, thermostats, timers, internal gubbings Ie oil / no oil / clay / ceramic etc.
So if I had a 1kw cheap heater costing £30, perhaps with a thermostat but no real internal designs that make the more effective, it may be on for 50 minutes out of an hour.
If I had a well designed expensive heater that cost £100's. But it was well equipped with internal ceramics storing a little heat, maybe it only needs to draw energy for 30 minutes per hour.
This would then mean that it would cost less to run the more expensive one simply because it isn't drawing as much electric per hour.
I read this yesterday and it made sense.
https://www.electrorad.co.uk/blog/electric-radiator-running-costs-and-energy-usage
I need to buy an electric rad soon, so do I buy a cheaper one or more expensive one? At what point might the cheaper one breakeven with a more expensive one?
A 1 kW iron will provide exactly the same heat in a room as a 1kW heater provided they consume the same amount of energy(electricity) e.g. 1kWh.
Some guy called Einstein stated you cannot destroy energy and nobody has yet proved him wrong.
Whilst a 1kW heater could use 1kWh in 1 hour, a 1kW iron's thermostat would keep switching it on/off so it would take a lot longer to use that 1kWh. so it wouldn't be suitable as a room heater.
Without question! any electrical heater from a £10 fan heater from Argos to a much hyped heater costing £2000, produce exactly the same amount of heat for the same amount of energy(electricity) consumed; and hence cost the same to run.
Filling a radiator with any substance known to man, and/or coating it with any substance known to man, does not alter the fact above.
The link you have given does not conflict with the above. If fact it states:
All electric resistance elements are 100% efficient at turning fuel input into heat output, therefore all electric radiators from all manufacturers have the same efficiency and the same running cost.0 -
Richie-from-the-Boro wrote: »The difference in price is your tarrif for example E7/E10 etc.
Tarriffs
What hours are E7/E10 and any other off peak tariffs?
Can the supply be intermittent to enable the supply company to even out total demands.
What are the pros and cons of HHR makes, your experiences please?
Ps. Heater efficiency Is the conversion rate of energy to heat. Think about a light bulb.
Thank you for all info.:beer:0 -
The hours of off-peak electricity(E7/E10) vary in different regions of the country. For E7 see below:
Only a couple of companies offer an E10 tariff and unless your house is already wired for E10 don't bother.0 -
Even if convectors filled with clay, magic custard or kryptonite were more efficient (which they are not, but let's fantasise for a moment and assume a 50% increase in output per kWh input). That doesn't come close to the saving by using E7 over a single rate tariff, which will be in the region of 300%.
You cannot reduce your kWh consumption by getting greater 'efficiency': all you can do is reduce your spend per kWh by installing E7, and look at possible insulation improvements.No free lunch, and no free laptop0 -
The hours of off-peak electricity(E7/E10) vary in different regions of the country. For E7 see below:
Thank you Cardew for the E7 map.
I note e.g. London is 7 hours between 2300 - 0700, does that mean the London E7 supply is intermittent but totals 7 hours?
Further to my first post above (18), we have now discovered that the supply is SSE SUPER DEAL with afternoon boost and 3 meters :eek:
Do you have a map giving the Super Deal hours? SSE is inconsistent on this? I'm beginning to wonder why.
Once again many thanks as i'm posting on behalf of a friend.
Any one that can help please post.:beer::beer:0
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