Magply used in a wood burning stove install.

keith969

JustAnotherSaver wrote: »

Exactly that!
keith, any chance of a side shot to take a look at the bend in the flue?

Here you go:



The hearth depth is quite shallow, so the angled flue was essential if the back of the stove is to be 50mm away..

Kiran

I have an offset bend on mine and its pretty similar to the photo. Also Hardie backer board was definitely the right choice for me. Its been in for 4/5 years now and has roaring fires and they still look as goo as the day they were installed (albeit a bit dustier down the back)

Gloomendoom

HardyBacker board is OK for lining non-combustible recesses.

I should have said that my installation was non-typical as the fireplace is combustible so the lining needed to have insulative properties as well as being fireproof. Calcium silicate boards combined with an air gap were the answer.

JustAnotherSaver

Ahh i get what you're saying now Dave. That looks a great idea actually. If i could go back and do things again there's a few things i'd certainly tweak.


The fire we have is a Fireline FX5W. I'm going off topic now but the handle is a soft touch handle and extremely poor design. It comes loose over time, the nut that locks the door goes stiff over time and i keep needing to squirt WD40 on it and then the handle actually snapped off in my hand as i don't know what it's made out of but it may as well be chocolate to snap after only 2 years of not even hard use. I'd most certainly have metal door openers if we ever got a different fire.




I know you don't know the guy who installed our fire but what would you do in our situation?
Sure the guy should've installed to spec and put in a minimum of 50mm gap, which he didn't. What he did do though he did well in my opinion. Would you go back to him and ask him to put in a bend (since it's been so long i don't expect it for free) or would you just automatically try someone else?

Davesnave

I would get the same guy back, as I believe in letting people know if something they've done isn't working out.


I'd not expect a free alteration at this late point, but if the spec to the fire was made available to the installer and they'd ignored it, I'd expect them to carry some of the rectification cost.

JustAnotherSaver

Ok so i saw the installer today.


They said that they no longer board out the recess as they had had issues with some customers installs.
Instead they now render the walls with a sand & cement based render with (strengthening) fibres thrown in the mix. They did point out that there is a possibility this could crack with the heat though.


Our situation is a little different in that we have had our walls tanked using the Sovereign Chemicals Heydi (or however it's spelled) system and if memory serves it was topped with Renderlite, though not the Renderlite finish, otherwise we'd have actually probably gone for the exposed brick look.


The installer is talking about cutting the board out and replacing with a rendered finish. Not entirely sure how this will look - whether cutting the board out will look naff, whether it could make a mess of the face of the chimney breast, i don't know (i'm not particularly good at this stuff).


They said they could put bends in but this could affect airflow. This wasn't said in a PLEASE DON'T DO IT way but just pointing out. They think it would be acceptable to remove the boards and just render with a straight through pipe.



So i've sent an email off to Sovereign to see if they can render on top of their product once the board has been removed. It will have bonding on there so i imagine that will have to be hand chiselled off (as don't want to risk an SDS removing the tanking product). If Sovereign give the green light then we might be a goer.


While i'm on this though, the joints on the paving slabs that were used have 'gone' over time. These were originally installed on a bed of a mix that included bonding but i imagine due to the damp problem we have it ended up popping one of the paving slabs off.


These were then removed, the entire bed removed and then a straight sand and cement mix was put down on to a damp proof sheet membrane.



The joints lasted a while but slowly started to deteriorate. I wondered if the slabs were shifting outwards but no they still measure up the same 10mm they always did so it's the joints that were shrinking.


Not really sure if this can be stopped.





Excuse the water stains around the edges of the rear slab...





The installer agreed that this was actually too close...