LED Downlights Dying

Rusty_Shackleton

coffeehound wrote: »

Are they 240 volt or fed by transformers/drivers?

I think they're just 240v - I removed all of them to paint the ceiling and I don't remember anything that looked like a transformer (assuming they'd be near the light fittings themselves?)

Rusty_Shackleton

dunroving wrote: »

Have you tried switching a bulb from one of the other problem sockets? That would at least get at what people are asking, re: whether it's a bulb problem or a wiring problem.

Initially I tried swapping an in-use bulb for a duff, both worked well, but then quite quickly both bulbs had the same problem.

I've done a lot of experimenting (bit sad like that) and it is definitely not the bulbs!

dunroving

I had a (somewhat) similar problem with ceiling downlights in one of my bedrooms. I'd walk out of the room, and come back to find the lights were out/off. Switching on and off made no difference.

At a later time/day, they would spontaneously come back on.

Turned out the previous owner (a DIY dummy) had installed downlights throughout most of the house, and in two rooms had fitted an incorrect (step down/up) transformer. The lights were going out because the transformer was getting fierce hot .... surrounded by the roofing insulation! It was a fire waiting to happen.

The bulbs also had a habit of constantly burning out, which was very inconvenient and (I think) probably also related to poor/unsafe fitting.

When I renovated the place, took out all the stupid downlights and replaced with old fashioned pendant ceiling light fittings.

Grenage

Rusty_Shackleton wrote: »

I think they're just 240v - I removed all of them to paint the ceiling and I don't remember anything that looked like a transformer (assuming they'd be near the light fittings themselves?)

I think 240v-fed downlights are much, much bigger than their driver-fed counterparts.

keith969

Grenage wrote: »

I think 240v-fed downlights are much, much bigger than their driver-fed counterparts.

Not in my case, they are about the same. 240V ones have the lugs, 12V ones have the thin pins. And if you pull the wires to them, the transformer for the 12V one will come out of the hole.

Rusty_Shackleton

keith969 wrote: »

Not in my case, they are about the same. 240V ones have the lugs, 12V ones have the thin pins. And if you pull the wires to them, the transformer for the 12V one will come out of the hole.

Ah, assuming that's the difference, then they're definitely 240v, it's the peg/lug type lights (GU10s), not the flat pin style lights.

societys_child

GU10s are GU10s.
They are not fed by a transformer ( . . or certainly shouldn't be) they are ~240v and have a driver (voltage dropper) built into the small, self contained bulb. Most sold now are COB (chip on board) lamps.

Video:
American testing a UK GU10 on US voltage (120v)
Surprisingly, it works . .


Edit:

I think 240v-fed downlights are much, much bigger than their driver-fed counterparts.

See the video

societys_child

Rusty_Shackleton wrote: »

Initially I tried swapping an in-use bulb for a duff, both worked well, but then quite quickly both bulbs had the same problem.

I've done a lot of experimenting (bit sad like that) and it is definitely not the bulbs!

I'm wondering if there is a choke/ condenser somewhere in the wiring. Might explain why some bulbs remain dimly lit? I'd definitely be checking the wiring. Are they just standard 2way switches?

Rusty_Shackleton

societys_child wrote: »

I'm wondering if there is a choke/ condenser somewhere in the wiring. Might explain why some bulbs remain dimly lit? I'd definitely be checking the wiring. Are they just standard 2way switches?

Yep, normal 2-way switches.

I hate to say it, but I think it's time to get an electrician out

Thanks for your help all :beer:

Grenage

Rusty_Shackleton wrote: »

Yep, normal 2-way switches.

I hate to say it, but I think it's time to get an electrician out

Thanks for your help all :beer:

Don't forget to let us know what it was.