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Economy 7 water heater problems, help please!
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The link in post #33 relates to the green t-stat in question.
Looking at earlier threads, The neon in the switch to the lower element *does* illuminate at night which rules out my duff mcb theory.0 -
coffeehound wrote: »Looking at earlier threads, The neon in the switch to the lower element *does* illuminate at night which rules out my duff mcb theory.
I'm confused now. Is the neon somewhere other than one of the two wall switches shown in picture 4, post #9?0 -
https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/5905685/should-you-lag-an-economy-7-water-heater
OP stated here that after the rod t-stat was replaced, all was good for some time [days?] before problems occurred. Perhaps a fail-on-fit t-stat? In which case your suggestion to swap stats would confirm..0 -
Confirmed light on switch here https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showpost.php?p=74824694&postcount=16
(Looks like there is a neon under one of the switches)
Also in that thread says no hot water at all on E7
So it seems likely the replacement stat has failed. Perhaps they didnt test it as they assumed it was okay being new0 -
Makes me wonder if the switch is elsewhere, and therefore is connecting the top element to E7 feed.
That might explain the small, but consistent amount of hot water.
Maybe the electrician mixed them up whilst fixing?0 -
Sounds possibleCornucopia wrote: »I'm confused now. Is the neon somewhere other than one of the two wall switches shown in picture 4, post #9?
Yes it looks like theres a little neon under the right-hand switch in the photo0 -
coffeehound wrote: »Yes it looks like theres a little neon under the right-hand switch in the photo
Could be my imagination but I thought that said "ON".0 -
Hi,
yes it does say 'on', and it looks as though it is on.
I managed to expand the picture, but too big to post.
Edit: wonder what the writing is under the cables.0 -
Ah well spotted. I dont know which switch the Op was referring to then . . Was there one in the kitchen.
So what do we reccomend to the Op?
1. Turn on a heater/towel rail overnight to confirm E7 switching
2. Request LL checks correct element is connected to E7 supply outlet
3. Request LL function checks the lower t-stat perhaps using a pan of heating water on the stove
4. Request LL continuity checks the lower heater element0 -
Hi all,
Sorry I've missed the last few posts.
There was a red light on the wall switch plate. However the electrician, despite him saying this wasn't the problem and I don't think it was/is, changed it on Monday and the new one doesn't have a light. The one on the right is the main switch, the left is the booster.
I emailed the landlord late this afternoon with some of the possible things to mention from this thread but haven't heard anything back. Hopefully I will in the morning.
Thanks for all your help so far.0
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