Help! New 2.5kW oven + 6.7kW hob - 40A fuse

peter666_2

Hi. I need to replace an old oven and hob. Currently the oven is 2.3kW and the hob is 5.8kW. They are both hardwired into the same connection unit, then it goes to a 45A cooker switch with an integrated 13A switched socket, then it goes to the 40A fuse in the consumer unit.

The new oven is 2.5kW and the new hob is 6.7kW. Fragments of spec below.



BEKO HIC64402T Ceramic Hob

Hob power - Front right: 1.5 kW / Front left: 2.2/0.75 kW / Rear right: 1.7 kW / Rear left: 1.2 kW

Electrical installation - This product requires hardwiring to a 32 Amp fuse.


Power supply - 32 Amp (Requires hardwiring to a dedicated cooker circuit)

BEKO Pro BXIM35300X Electric Oven

Energy consumption - 0.94 kWh

Electrical installation - This product requires hardwiring to a 16 Amp fuse.

Power supply - 16 Amp (Requires hardwiring to a dedicated circuit)

Electrical power rating - 2.5kW


The question is - are these new appliances suitable replacements or should I look for something with less total kW? Will the total load be too much while cooking on the hobs and using oven at the same time? We very often also use the integrated socket in the cooker switch while cooking to charge a mobile phone etc.

Thanks,

Piotr

Nilrem

Check the instructions for the hob, iirc some have an option that lets you limit the total power draw.
I think ours does and it basically disables the boost mode on one or two of the elements when they are all on (thus lowering the peak power the hob can use when everything is on).

I suspect your situation isn't unusual, so there is probably a safe workaround that doesn't require rewiring.

peter666_2

Rewiring isn't an option for me unfortunately. I also couldn't find anything about limiting the draw in the manual. No mention of it whatsoever.

FreeBear

The maximum load you can put on the cooker spur depends on the length of the cable and also the size. If you have a 6mm² cable, think about getting it upgraded to 10mm².

If in doubt, get a qualified electrician in to have a look and advise accordingly.

peter666_2

Hi, it's a separate cable only for the cooker. 6mm² which I cannot really upgrade to 10mm².

It terms of how long it is - I'm not sure - it is about 80cm between the connection unit and the 45A cooker switch and then maybe 6-8m to the fuse box with the 40A mcb (not sure if that's what you meant when you said about the length).

Aylesbury_Duck

I think you need an electrician to advise you.

jk0

I wouldn't sweat it. I'm sure you are sensible enough not to run all four rings on max, and oven as well.



If it was for tenants, I might change the cooker switch to one without a socket, to avoid a kettle being added to the circuit as well.

peter666_2

Hi. There is no kettle on the cooker switch socket. The kettle is on a separate ring for all other kitchen sockets. The only thing we use it for is a hand blender and mobile charger.

No, we normally wouldn't run both oven and all 4 hobs on full load but come Christmas we might use more power. Not sure if the installation would still be able to withstand it without blowing the fuse.

jk0

I make it 9.2kw in total, isn't it?



9200W divided by 240 volts= 38.3 Amps.


Therefore fuse should be okay.

peter666_2

Oh, I thought it was 230volts. I calculated it using 230V and I got 40Amps. Didn't know it was supposed to be 240V.

jk0

peter666 wrote: »

Oh, I thought it was 230volts. I calculated it using 230V and I got 40Amps. Didn't know it was supposed to be 240V.

Yeah, it is 240V. Just we 'say' that it's 230V so that appliances can work here or on the continent where it's actually 220 V.