Toyota EML

derrick

I have a 1996 Toyota Carina, a couple of years ago the battery completely drained, (nothing left on so a mystery), I fully recharged it, but since then the EML has been on constantly, as it made no difference to the cars running I left it. I have been told the computer probably did not reset itself after recharging and just needs a manual reset.

It has since passed 2 MOT's without problems.

However due to the new MOT regs this EML has to be in working order to pass, i.e. comes on with the ignition then goes off when the engine starts.

I took it to my local garage who has done some work over the years and he tried to plug his machine into my car, but turns out he does not have the required lead, says he has a Toyota 2 lead and this one must need a Toyota 1 lead.

As it may cost a lot to use an auto electrician to sort this, is there a cheap solution?





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Aylesbury_Duck

I believe the practice adopted by some is to disconnect the LED or put a piece of blanking tape inside the console screen.

reddwarf2002

Aylesbury_Duck wrote: »

I believe the practice adopted by some is to disconnect the LED or put a piece of blanking tape inside the console screen.

That will no longer work as rightly stated by OP due to new MOT regs.


OP you could try disconnecting the battery again for 30 minutes and hopefully it will reset.

Nodding_Donkey

Aylesbury_Duck wrote: »

I believe the practice adopted by some is to disconnect the LED or put a piece of blanking tape inside the console screen.

Which will still be a fail as the lamp won't illuminate when the ignition is turned on. Far better to find out why the lamp is on and deal with it.


Adapter leads are available on ebay for under £20

facade

Early Toyotas weren't OBD2 so the cheap code readers won't work.


You can disconnect the battery earth lead for a few minutes but that will mean entering the radio codes and making the windows learn when they are up etc.


Or, remove the ecu/ecm fuse (fuse box under bonnet) for 30 seconds and replace, that should clear any existing errors. If there is a current problem it will come back on.


To read the code by making the MIL flash, you join two of the terminals of the plug under the bonnet


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/toyota-trouble-code-definitions-and-code-gathering-method-1990-1995


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKJONOgG2lw




However, your garage should know this, so maybe there is something else, like they think the car will break if they try it, so do it at your own risk, but what have you got to lose? The car won't MOT anyway..

derrick

reddwarf2002 wrote: »

OP you could try disconnecting the battery again for 30 minutes and hopefully it will reset.

Just tried that, left for 2 hours, no change.

facade wrote: »

Early Toyotas weren't OBD2 so the cheap code readers won't work.
You can disconnect the battery earth lead for a few minutes but that will mean entering the radio codes and making the windows learn when they are up etc.

Or, remove the ecu/ecm fuse (fuse box under bonnet) for 30 seconds and replace, that should clear any existing errors. If there is a current problem it will come back on.

To read the code by making the MIL flash, you join two of the terminals of the plug under the bonnet


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/toyota-trouble-code-definitions-and-code-gathering-method-1990-1995


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKJONOgG2lw


However, your garage should know this, so maybe there is something else, like they think the car will break if they try it, so do it at your own risk, but what have you got to lose? The car won't MOT anyway..

Yes I think the garage does know this because mechanic mentioned shorting out something for duration of test? What is the MIL.




The car runs no different from what it has always run during my ownership, so what has/can break I would not know!





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facade

derrick wrote: »

Yes I think the garage does know this because mechanic mentioned shorting out something for duration of test? What is the MIL.

MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp- the yellow check engine light.


If it won't go out straight away after an ecu reset, there is something wrong now, rather than a spurious error caused by the flat battery a while ago.


There isn't a lot that can do that, and still have the car drive right and pass emission at MOT.


Possibly throttle pedal zero position switch, maybe the cam sensor or water temperature reading high, I wouldn't like to guess.


Do what it says in the youtube video and count the flashes to find the fault code, or take it to another garage.

derrick

facade wrote: »

MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp- the yellow check engine light.


If it won't go out straight away after an ecu reset, there is something wrong now, rather than a spurious error caused by the flat battery a while ago.


There isn't a lot that can do that, and still have the car drive right and pass emission at MOT.


Possibly throttle pedal zero position switch, maybe the cam sensor or water temperature reading high, I wouldn't like to guess.


Do what it says in the youtube video and count the flashes to find the fault code, or take it to another garage.

OK done that, getting code as 21:-


Code 21 Main oxygen sensor signal fault.


Easy fix?





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reddwarf2002

derrick wrote: »

OK done that, getting code as 21:-


Code 21 Main oxygen sensor signal fault.


Easy fix?





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It will probably set you back £120 for a Lambda/Oxygen sensor including fitting. If the car is otherwise running well and there's no sign of impending disaster (like rust) then I would be inclined to getting it fixed.



You could check* the sensor itself for any sign of damage to the wiring, but in all honesty the sensor has probably had it's day IF it's the original.


* The sensor will be somewhere on the exhaust before the catalytic converter.

facade

If you look at the front of the engine with the bonnet up, it is a small cylinder sticking out of the exhaust pipe to the right with wires on it. It is in the small plain pipe below the metal shielding, just before it bends back under the engine.


If it will come out, it is a very easy job using a generic toyota type sensor for about £30, but they can seize absolutely solid in place, and then leave the threads behind, which needs garage tools to remove and clean up- not hard, but you won't have the tools, every chance if it has been there since 1995.


Best to get a quote from your friendly small garage, but they will likely want to check it again themselves, as if they change it and it is the same you won't like it, a genuine part is probably £200, so keep away from the dealers.


Worth doing if it is running well and not rusty.




I'm surprised it passes emissions without that sensor, they just run a default "best guess" program, it may do a little better to the gallon with a working sensor.

derrick

facade wrote: »

If you look at the front of the engine with the bonnet up, it is a small cylinder sticking out of the exhaust pipe to the right with wires on it. It is in the small plain pipe below the metal shielding, just before it bends back under the engine.


If it will come out, it is a very easy job using a generic toyota type sensor for about £30, but they can seize absolutely solid in place, and then leave the threads behind, which needs garage tools to remove and clean up- not hard, but you won't have the tools, every chance if it has been there since 1995.


Best to get a quote from your friendly small garage, but they will likely want to check it again themselves, as if they change it and it is the same you won't like it, a genuine part is probably £200, so keep away from the dealers.


Worth doing if it is running well and not rusty.




I'm surprised it passes emissions without that sensor, they just run a default "best guess" program, it may do a little better to the gallon with a working sensor.

Yes I have already located it, but according to this video @ 1 minute 19 seconds in there are 2 sensors, (this is for a Camry but aren't they the same setup?)


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