Home Buyer Survey Results

bips7310

Hi,
I am a first time buyer and as any first time buyer, I am nervous and extra cautious.I got my HomeBuyer survey result and i got a lot of 3s and 2s. To me all the issues look very serious, enough to make me wonder about my decision to buy the property. Should i drop it or still go ahead to buy taking into considerations of the huge repairs needed. Any help is appreciated.
Below are the ones with 3 rating.
1.Internal Walls: Penetrating damp detected. Plaster needs to be hacked off or walls chipped off. Repairs needed. Concealed walls should be inspected.
2.Electricity: The electric installation needs upgrading as it does not comply with the current standards. Advice and estimate required from a qualified contractor.
3.Dampness: Penetration dampness in the internal walls. Concealed timbers may be defective and adjacent floor areas should be opened and fully investigated.
4.Drainage: The main inspection chamber cover and frame should be overhauled or
repaired.The soil and vent pipe should be overhauled and upgraded to comply with
current regulations, including provision of a cowl.
5.Plumbing:Insulation and cover to the cold water tank are inadequate and should be
improved to prevent freezing.
Apart from the above i have also the below points where the ratings are 2.
1.Structural : The property has suffered previous movement evidenced by cracking to
external rendering to front and rear elevations in particular above and below
window openings but I saw no evidence to suggest this is ongoing.
2.Ceilings : Defective ceiling within the airing cupboard should be repaired.
Shrinkage cracks to ceilings within the bedroom and living areas should be cut
out and filled.
3.Roof : The main roof space should be ventilated to prevent condensation.
The roof space is inadequately insulated and adequate insulation should be
provided.
4.Chimney : The disused flue to the chimney stack should be capped and ventilated to
prevent dampness problems developing.

OUNN

Someone with more experience than me will be along shortly to help you.

But, pretty much every survey I have ever had (and lots of other people as well). Will have an rating of 3 on electrics and Gas.

I'm surprised yours doesn't mention the gas system and boiler.
Basically, the surveyor isn't qualified to test electrical systems - so will put a rating of 3 because they don't know how safe it is. The recommendation is always to get it tested.
So don't overly worry about the electrical issue.

Are you paying the asking price for the property? How long was it on the market? Is it a cheaper property because it's in a poor state of repair?

Your full survey report will give more detail than the summary you've given. Was the damp tested with their good old damp meter? It may be something, but chances are it's nothing. The meters don't actually test damp.

How old is the property?

Something not complying with current regulations is no problem at all. It complied with the regulations when it was installed - yes. If you were installing it today, you'd have to do it differently. But you don't need to change something just because it doesn't comply!

Has much been said in the survey about the type of construction? Is it a solid wall or a cavity wall?
I note the property is rendered, is that in good condition?

Without seeing the full text written for each section, personally the only one that might give me pause for thought is the previous movement to the property - have the windows been replaced?

But I would probably be adding some insulation to the tank in the loft when my purchase went through.

YoungBlueEyes

Not to derail the thread but - if a damp metre doesn't test damp, what does it do?

davidmcn

The damp is the only notable issue there, the rest is either inconsequential (e.g. the electrics) or a list of maintenance points to deal with in your own time after you move in.

OUNN wrote: »

I'm surprised yours doesn't mention the gas system and boiler.

That depends on whether the property has gas

jamesperrett

YoungBlueEyes wrote: »

Not to derail the thread but - if a damp metre doesn't test damp, what does it do?

The ones I've seen test electrical resistance - they assume that the building is constructed from non-conducting materials so any conduction is due to damp.

Davesnave

jamesperrett wrote: »

The ones I've seen test electrical resistance - they assume that the building is constructed from non-conducting materials so any conduction is due to damp.

Some 'damp' may also be condensation due to lifestyle, so a high reading isn't in itself conclusive proof of anything, other than high conductivity.

When we bought it, our property was full of after-market ventliation ducts through walls and ceilings, suggesting the previous owners had problems with high humidity. We've since removed them all and installed 'normal' ventilation to kitchen & bathrooms, without noticing any detrimental effects.

Owain_Moneysaver

bips7310 wrote: »

Hi,
I am a first time buyer and as any first time buyer, I am nervous and extra cautious.I got my HomeBuyer survey result and i got a lot of 3s and 2s. To me all the issues look very serious, enough to make me wonder about my decision to buy the property. Should i drop it or still go ahead to buy taking into considerations of the huge repairs needed. Any help is appreciated.
Below are the ones with 3 rating.
1.Internal Walls: Penetrating damp detected. Plaster needs to be hacked off or walls chipped off. Repairs needed. Concealed walls should be inspected.

How do you get penetrating damp on internal walls? Penetrating damp is due to rain ingress. Either there is something seriously wrong with the roof or your surveyor is talking through his bottom (and using a moisture meter inappropriately).

bips7310 wrote: »

2.Electricity: The electric installation needs upgrading as it does not comply with the current standards. Advice and estimate required from a qualified contractor.

Hardly any installations comply with current regulations, and the new 18th Edition are out later this year. There's nothing to suggest the installation is dangerous or needs upgrading. Ask the surveyor why it does not comply with current standards or see if there's an inspection date sticker on the consumer unit.

bips7310 wrote: »

3.Dampness: Penetration dampness in the internal walls. Concealed timbers may be defective and adjacent floor areas should be opened and fully investigated.

Again, how do you get penetrating dampness in internal walls?

bips7310 wrote: »

4.Drainage: The main inspection chamber cover and frame should be overhauled or
repaired.The soil and vent pipe should be overhauled and upgraded to comply with
current regulations, including provision of a cowl.

Why? What's wrong with them as they are.

bips7310 wrote: »

5.Plumbing:Insulation and cover to the cold water tank are inadequate and should be
improved to prevent freezing.

That's an afternoon's job with some pipe lagging and something like this
https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/delux-insulation-rectangular-cistern-4-gallon
(there's a replacement tank lid under 'related items')

bips7310 wrote: »

Apart from the above i have also the below points where the ratings are 2.
1.Structural : The property has suffered previous movement evidenced by cracking to
external rendering to front and rear elevations in particular above and below
window openings but I saw no evidence to suggest this is ongoing.

All prooperties move a bit. Render does crack. But there's a big difference between a few hairline cracks in render (which you can fill yourself with a squeezy tube of filler and holes you can put your hand in that go right through the wall.

bips7310 wrote: »

2.Ceilings : Defective ceiling within the airing cupboard should be repaired.

Why? Is it doing any harm at the moment?

bips7310 wrote: »

Shrinkage cracks to ceilings within the bedroom and living areas should be cut
out and filled.

Why? Are they doing any harm at the moment? All ceilings have occasional cracks. Paint over them.

bips7310 wrote: »

3.Roof : The main roof space should be ventilated to prevent condensation.
The roof space is inadequately insulated and adequate insulation should be
provided.

If it isn't actually ventilated then a few soffit vents and/or vent tiles will be needed. Loft insulation is a fun afternoon chucking lots of glassfibre over the joists.

bips7310 wrote: »

4.Chimney : The disused flue to the chimney stack should be capped and ventilated to
prevent dampness problems developing.

If it's not causing any problems at the moment why is it likely to in the future?

Lolly88

Owain_Moneysaver wrote: »

How do you get penetrating damp on internal walls? Penetrating damp is due to rain ingress. Either there is something seriously wrong with the roof or your surveyor is talking through his bottom (and using a moisture meter inappropriately).
Again, how do you get penetrating dampness in internal walls?
glassfibre over the joists.

Old bricks becoming porous or problems with cavity wall.

Owain_Moneysaver

Lolly88 wrote: »

Old bricks becoming porous or problems with cavity wall.

On an external wall, yes; not on an internal wall.

Lolly88

Owain_Moneysaver wrote: »

On an external wall, yes; not on an internal wall.

The impact on the external wall will impact the internal wall if bad enough. If bricks are porous due to age, spalding or whatever and water seeps in then it can impact the internal wall resulting in penetrating dampness.