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Induction Hob wiring

Be_Happy
Posts: 1,392 Forumite


I'm puzzled at advice given by kitchen fitter, but since I know nothing about electrical work, wondered if someone can explain.
Part of work will be replacing 17 year old electric hob with Belling Induction Hob. Was advised that I should choose plug in 13 amp hob as 32 amp would require wiring back to electric meter. BUT at present hob is wired into wall socket under worktop and, in fuse box? beside electric meter, one of the switches is labelled Hob 32 amp. In the kitchen there is the usual special double wall socket - one part wired in and labelled 'cooker' and the second part a normal socket.
Why could a new 32 amp hob not just have been wired in to the existing connection under worktop? Will the electrician be able to connect the new 13 amp hob to the 32 amp connection, or will he have to replace something?
I've 'googled' this, but all posts seem to develop into arguments between posters, so I'm confused.
Part of work will be replacing 17 year old electric hob with Belling Induction Hob. Was advised that I should choose plug in 13 amp hob as 32 amp would require wiring back to electric meter. BUT at present hob is wired into wall socket under worktop and, in fuse box? beside electric meter, one of the switches is labelled Hob 32 amp. In the kitchen there is the usual special double wall socket - one part wired in and labelled 'cooker' and the second part a normal socket.
Why could a new 32 amp hob not just have been wired in to the existing connection under worktop? Will the electrician be able to connect the new 13 amp hob to the 32 amp connection, or will he have to replace something?
I've 'googled' this, but all posts seem to develop into arguments between posters, so I'm confused.
0
Comments
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Have you asked your kitchen fitter why?0
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Are you sure they haven!!!8217;t just mistakenly assumed your existing hob was plugged in or on a lower rated circuit?0
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Do you have two 32A circuits in the consumer unit (fuse box) one 32A lablled 'Cooker/Oven' and a second 32A labelled 'Hob'.
If yes, you can have a 'proper' induction hob rated up to 32 A hard-wired in as per the existing hob. If no it may be a different answer.
It would be acceptable and simple enough for an electrician to replace the current connection point with a 13A socket, though... but it cannot have the 13A plug cut off and hard wired in without a fuse inline (13A) due to the inadequate cable size = fire risk if on a 32A circuit.0 -
Hi
If its just a case of replacing your existing 32 amp hob with another on the same circuit then definitely go for a 32 amp induction hob. But the fitter / electrician may have 'ear marked' this 32 amp supply for another purpose in the kitchen and has told you to get a 13 amp induction hob so it can be plugged in to the kitchen ring main / sockets.
Probably though what they haven't told you is that a 13 amp induction hob is severely held back in terms of performance compared to a 32 amp one. A 13 amp hob has to 'power manage' its output so effectively if you have one ring on full power you can have a second on 3/4 power, then that's it. Or you can put 4 pots on it and barely get to half power on any of them.
So definitely if you can keep to a 32 amp hob you would be much better off.
CK0 -
Have you asked your kitchen fitter why?0
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Your existing hob should be wired into a cooker outlet plate, not a 13A socket.
The kitchen fitter probably wants a hob with a 13A plug because there are three wires to connect and he's not sure which way round they go. Kitchen fitters are usually the worst to be let anywhere near electrics.A kind word lasts a minute, a skelped erse is sair for a day.0 -
Thanks for information.
I didn't query with the kitchen fitter (joiner) as he seemed sure there would be a problem with the 32 amp model and I assumed he knew more about electricity than me, although I did have to explain to him the problem with reduced capacity for cooking with plug in (I've had this explained to me before). Since I live on my own and do more cooking in the microwave than on the hob, the reduced power didn't matter too much. If I have pots on for any length of time, then they are usually at 'simmer'.
As for the consumer unit, it has one switch labelled hob 32 amp and another one labelled cooker 20 amp.
When I was in the local electrical shop ordering the appliances, I heard the salesman telling a customer something about cooker sockets and whatever the customer was planning on doing would be illegal although it may have been done in the past, so I wondered if this had a bearing on my query.
Anyway, thanks for your information. I expect the electrician will fit in a socket somewhere. I can't change the hob as it, and the other appliances, havebeen ordered and are stored in the shop ready for delivery when the kitchen fitter comes. I simply wondered what the problem was.0
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