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OE qualty or OES quality

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Comments

  • AdrianC wrote: »
    TRW and Lemforder are both major suppliers to car manufacturers - OE. Which any particular manufacturer uses is probably somewhat flexible.

    Never heard of Starline. I'd be avoiding...

    Looking down what's available on another site:
    http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/suspension-arm-track-control-arm/toyota-yaris-scp9-nsp9-ksp9-ncp9-zsp9-1-3-vvt-i-87hp_v19256_g273.html
    The £46 Delphi looks to be the best value there, if the side you want's the one in stock... If you need passenger side, then I'd be getting the £60 Monroe. Both are major OE suppliers.
    Yes it's the passenger side I need but I think it's best to replace both sides. Does mister auto normally charge a more expensive price for a drivers side track control arm to the passengers side. £59.90 for the passenger side and £215.90 for the drivers side.
  • AdrianC
    AdrianC Posts: 42,189 Forumite
    Eighth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    If only one's knackered, then there's no point in replacing both. It's not like springs or dampers, where the efficiency is lost over time and use.
  • Robisere
    Robisere Posts: 3,237 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Photogenic Combo Breaker
    OES = Original Equipment Supplier
    OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer.
    Check out this link, it's American but just as applicable here:

    http://ltdac.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/difference-between-oem-oes-and.html

    It also demonstrates that there is very little difference. Buying from a recognised Motor Parts Factor, is more important. Those companies make lots of money selling parts at lower prices than those stamped with a manufacturer's logo. Their parts have to be of comparable quality, fit and purpose, otherwise there would sooner or later be a hefty court case, with a corresponding loss of reputation and sales.

    When I was in the trade, my large workshop used mainly one large independent supplier for OES parts. In 20+ years as a workshop manager, there was never a case of defective parts from that supplier and one other OES supplier that we used occasionally. It is not generally known, but a large percentage of OES parts are made by one large UK engineering company, which makes the same parts on the same production line for major vehicle manufacturers (OEM parts). The production line splits when the completed OEM parts are stamped, sometimes painted, and packaged with the vehicle maufacturer's logo.

    As with so many products today, you are often paying a premium just for the name on the box.
    I think this job really needs
    a much bigger hammer.
  • epninety
    epninety Posts: 563 Forumite
    owen_money wrote: »
    I work for an OEM and yes its the same parts. Price difference is the mark up the car manufacturer makes.

    That's just not always true though. The only thing OEM proves is that it's made by the same manufacturer. It does not prove it's made to the same specification, from the same materials, or even in the same factory.

    Open a genuine Bosch starter motor for a Land Rover, open a Bosch starter motor bearing a LR oval stamped into the case. The LR branded one has more water sealing, a larger solenoid , and a more robust reduction gearbox.

    Simple example would be a universal joint. Open the GKN catalogue, pick a common size, there may be four (or more) parts which will fit for a given application - they can have different roller diameters, different sealing arrangements, different greasing arrangements. GKN will classify them as being for high or low speed operation, dirty environment etc. The vehicle manufacturer may (and often does) specify a different mix of features than in the standard range. But you could choose a UJ designed for a tractor and sell it as OEM for a Range Rover - it would be literally true, and it would fit, but it wouldn't be the right part, and it might not last, or it might vibrate etc.

    Given no other info, it's a guide, but it's only that. It certainly does not mean it's the same as the part the vehicle manufacturer would fit.
  • AdrianC wrote: »
    If only one's knackered, then there's no point in replacing both. It's not like springs or dampers, where the efficiency is lost over time and use.
    The rubbers wear on them and it looks like the drivers side is starting to wear. I contacted mister parts and they said all the suspension components comes with a 2 year warranty and they would recommend brands by trw, moog, herth+buss.
  • n217970
    n217970 Posts: 338 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    AdrianC wrote: »
    TRW and Lemforder are both major suppliers to car manufacturers - OE. Which any particular manufacturer uses is probably somewhat flexible.

    Never heard of Starline. I'd be avoiding...

    Looking down what's available on another site:
    http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/suspension-arm-track-control-arm/toyota-yaris-scp9-nsp9-ksp9-ncp9-zsp9-1-3-vvt-i-87hp_v19256_g273.html
    The £46 Delphi looks to be the best value there, if the side you want's the one in stock... If you need passenger side, then I'd be getting the £60 Monroe. Both are major OE suppliers.

    I threw some starline droplinks on my 13 year old car last week. Seem fine to me, time will tell but things like droplinks tend to get munched up on UK roads regardless of how much they cost.
  • n217970 wrote: »
    I threw some starline droplinks on my 13 year old car last week. Seem fine to me, time will tell but things like droplinks tend to get munched up on UK roads regardless of how much they cost.
    When you installed them did you have to use a torx bit on the front to stop the joint from turning when doing up the nut or did you have to use a spanner on the joint to stop it from spinning when you did up the nut.
  • n217970
    n217970 Posts: 338 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Allan key on these ones, although they do have a small flat for a spanner between the thread and the ball point cover.
  • epninety wrote: »
    That's just not always true though. The only thing OEM proves is that it's made by the same manufacturer. It does not prove it's made to the same specification, from the same materials, or even in the same factory.

    Open a genuine Bosch starter motor for a Land Rover, open a Bosch starter motor bearing a LR oval stamped into the case. The LR branded one has more water sealing, a larger solenoid , and a more robust reduction gearbox.

    Simple example would be a universal joint. Open the GKN catalogue, pick a common size, there may be four (or more) parts which will fit for a given application - they can have different roller diameters, different sealing arrangements, different greasing arrangements. GKN will classify them as being for high or low speed operation, dirty environment etc. The vehicle manufacturer may (and often does) specify a different mix of features than in the standard range. But you could choose a UJ designed for a tractor and sell it as OEM for a Range Rover - it would be literally true, and it would fit, but it wouldn't be the right part, and it might not last, or it might vibrate etc.

    Given no other info, it's a guide, but it's only that. It certainly does not mean it's the same as the part the vehicle manufacturer would fit.

    Ok maybe not always true, but it is for who I work for
    One man's folly is another man's wife. Helen Roland (1876 - 1950)
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