filling holes in walls with pipes

hi there,
looking for some advise on how to fill these holes in the wall please? One is under the kitchen sink cupboards and has pipes etc and the other is 'heating' pipes in a bathroom.

The bathroom has two hot and one cold IIRC, and are going to a rad (i think). If it affects anything there is a small leak somewhere on the section which i am attempting to locate.

i understand that expandy foam can breakdown pipework and i *think* there is a plastic one along with the metal / copper pipes in the kitchen (its hard to tell). Also i would expect that they might expand and contract being pipes so worry that would put pressure and possibly result in leaks / damaging the pipes? i live in an old house with dodgy everything so am wanting to not cause another problem just by trying to fix my drafts! So i don't know what to use?

Also any tips for filling an old pipe hole in my outside brick?

Many thanks

Bonus:
There also appears to be a mystery pipe at the far right side after 1 corner cupboard on the run, anyone any ideas what it might be? I can not see anything else in the kitchen that might 'feed' it.

Kitchen Sink:
https://imgur.com/PLkRsS5
https://imgur.com/bxg7Kk8
https://imgur.com/azj5zN8

Bathroom:
https://imgur.com/DJOIv5v
https://imgur.com/SJJ7kFh
https://imgur.com/ehT567U

Mystery:
https://imgur.com/e2PZbhD
https://imgur.com/0M78UfG
- Chez

Comments

  • NotSkint
    NotSkint Posts: 74 Forumite
    For the bathroom; looks like a candidate for boxing in and tiling over.
    Remove adjacent tiles, batten, plywood boxing and retile. If you want to maintain access you can design the boxing so a panel is removeable. If you use metric inserts and decent stainless screws for the removeable section and silicone rather than grout at the tile join it can work quite well, obviously the silicone will need to be cut and reapplied after each access, but not something you would do regularly, if at all.
    Can't really see what is going on under the kitchen, can't really see a hole.
    For the pipe hole on the outside brick; if it is a small pipe then just a bit of mortar, if larger then replace by cutting out brickwork and replacing with new.
  • Norman_Castle
    Norman_Castle Posts: 11,871 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    For an easy short term fix fill the unseen holes with loft insulation or screwed up plastic bags.
  • chezybezy
    chezybezy Posts: 149 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Photogenic Combo Breaker
    NotSkint wrote: »
    For the bathroom; looks like a candidate for boxing in and tiling over.
    Remove adjacent tiles, batten, plywood boxing and retile. If you want to maintain access you can design the boxing so a panel is removeable. If you use metric inserts and decent stainless screws for the removeable section and silicone rather than grout at the tile join it can work quite well, obviously the silicone will need to be cut and reapplied after each access, but not something you would do regularly, if at all.
    Can't really see what is going on under the kitchen, can't really see a hole.
    For the pipe hole on the outside brick; if it is a small pipe then just a bit of mortar, if larger then replace by cutting out brickwork and replacing with new.
    For an easy short term fix fill the unseen holes with loft insulation or screwed up plastic bags.

    Thank you very much for the replies. There is some plastic tracking that goes over the bathroom pipes loosely (looks terrible hence not mentioned previously) but it lets through a hell of a cold draft, I would like to box them in eventually. My last attempt at boxing in turned out ok. I thought I could fill in the holes n make it look passable then box in, but worry about what to use. Would loft insulation or bags be ok if I then boxed in over the top later? Or would I be better using something like expandy foam?

    Sorry technically you are correct the under sink are numerous small holes, basically the black sections, you can see one "behind"that odd piece of wood laying in the sideways gap, the other's are smaller. The section lets one heck of a cold draft and thought seeing the "damage" that's where its coming from, so wanted to seal it up, but worried about expandy foam as I mentioned previously.
    Any ideas?

    Cheers will grab some ready mixed mortar when I'm going past.
    If it's not too much trouble to also ask, ive also got an internal vent (new heating system) that's now redundant, I'm thinking, pack with something, board over and seal?
    And I have two floor to ceiling wiring chased in tracks I need to fill, would this be "ready mixed skim" and turn paint? Or should I line between wires then skim with something like card or plastic?

    Many thanks and I'm so sorry for all the extra questions, I don't want to use the wrong thing.
    - Chez
  • NotSkint
    NotSkint Posts: 74 Forumite
    Ok;
    I personally would avoid using expanding foam as it sticks like s**t, would be difficult to remove cleanly and tends to keep expanding in a less than controllable manner. It has its uses but I think it is a bit of a bodge (my personal opinion).
    You could use loft insulation as a temporary measure to reduce the draft; can be itchy stuff, so maybe you could try bagging it.
    If boxing in then having loft insulation in the boxing in is no problem.

    Still don't quite get the small holes under the sink, but if as described then they are a candidate for filling over with a bit of plaster/filler Wouldn't have to be neat as you can't see it.

    With regards your vent; I assume it bridges the cavity between internal and external brickwork? Is the pipe between still present and is the outer vent staying? If you only deal with the internal vent then you could get damp problems. Proper way is to block up the external vent with similar external brickwork or cement and render to match, remove the bridging vent pipe, insert some insulation in the gap, assuming your construction has cavity insulation and then block off the inside with some plasterboard and re skim or patch as required.

    What sort of wires? Electrical wiring should have capping over the top; generally plastic. then you can plaster over the top.

    I've assumed that your house isn't plasterboard dot & dab as the pictures give the impression that it is an older type house and therefore built more traditionally.
  • chezybezy
    chezybezy Posts: 149 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Photogenic Combo Breaker
    NotSkint wrote: »
    Ok;
    I personally would avoid using expanding foam as it sticks like s**t, would be difficult to remove cleanly and tends to keep expanding in a less than controllable manner. It has its uses but I think it is a bit of a bodge (my personal opinion).
    You could use loft insulation as a temporary measure to reduce the draft; can be itchy stuff, so maybe you could try bagging it.
    If boxing in then having loft insulation in the boxing in is no problem.

    Still don't quite get the small holes under the sink, but if as described then they are a candidate for filling over with a bit of plaster/filler Wouldn't have to be neat as you can't see it.

    With regards your vent; I assume it bridges the cavity between internal and external brickwork? Is the pipe between still present and is the outer vent staying? If you only deal with the internal vent then you could get damp problems. Proper way is to block up the external vent with similar external brickwork or cement and render to match, remove the bridging vent pipe, insert some insulation in the gap, assuming your construction has cavity insulation and then block off the inside with some plasterboard and re skim or patch as required.

    What sort of wires? Electrical wiring should have capping over the top; generally plastic. then you can plaster over the top.

    I've assumed that your house isn't plasterboard dot & dab as the pictures give the impression that it is an older type house and therefore built more traditionally.

    brilliant, thanks - for all three :D.
    r.e the wires they are electrical - i think part of the lighting and socket rewire i had done. Pics below if this helps:
    https://imgur.com/5P5IJQq
    https://imgur.com/41eyRJw
    https://imgur.com/sIikhcy.
    would trunking (turned over without top so its bottom is the front) or channel trunking or conduit 'over' the wires then ready mixed plaster? any advise do i need to leave a gap between cable and plastic? (thinking ill grab from B&Q tomorrow).

    that's correct, its an old traditional build property - i cant quite recall the date and am sure there is some plasterboard d&d somewhere *shifty cartoon eyes*. oh yes the new(er) extension i might have some - they way things are going i am sure i'll need to post for help for something in there eventually!

    thank you very much for your help again.
    - Chez
  • All my wastepipes pass through the wall via a plastic sleeve made from a larger piece of pipe cemented into the brick. That way I can remove the pipe for cleaning & maintenance without having to bray a hole in the wall.
  • NotSkint
    NotSkint Posts: 74 Forumite
    edited 6 February 2018 at 8:28PM
    chezybezy wrote: »
    brilliant, thanks - for all three :D.
    r.e the wires they are electrical - i think part of the lighting and socket rewire i had done. Pics below if this helps:
    https://imgur.com/5P5IJQq
    https://imgur.com/41eyRJw
    https://imgur.com/sIikhcy.
    would trunking (turned over without top so its bottom is the front) or channel trunking or conduit 'over' the wires then ready mixed plaster? any advise do i need to leave a gap between cable and plastic? (thinking ill grab from B&Q tomorrow).

    that's correct, its an old traditional build property - i cant quite recall the date and am sure there is some plasterboard d&d somewhere *shifty cartoon eyes*. oh yes the new(er) extension i might have some - they way things are going i am sure i'll need to post for help for something in there eventually!

    thank you very much for your help again.


    This is what you are after

    https://www.diy.com/departments/mk-25mm-x-2m-white-channel-trunking/266726_BQ.prd?icamp=recs&rrec=true

    Put over cable, secure with hardened capping nails into flats on side, (obviously avoiding raised bit with wire under :rotfl:) and plaster over

    These are capping nails in case you are not familiar with them
    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SCNAIL.html
  • Carrot007
    Carrot007 Posts: 4,534 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 6 February 2018 at 8:32PM
    NotSkint wrote: »
    This is what you are after

    https://www.diy.com/departments/mk-25mm-x-2m-white-channel-trunking/266726_BQ.prd?icamp=recs&rrec=true

    Put over cable, secure with hardened capping nails into flats on side, (obviously avoiding raised bit with wire under :rotfl:) and plaster over

    These are capping nails in case you are not familiar with them
    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SCNAIL.html

    Or just plaster over the lot. The cable's will be fine and the plastic trunking is not going to protect it from anything. If you ever needed it replaced you would use new cable.

    That is, all it protects the wiring from is a bad plasterer with jabbing them with a trowel. But that would be a very bad plasterer.
  • NotSkint
    NotSkint Posts: 74 Forumite
    Carrot007 wrote: »
    Or just plaster over the lot. The cable's will be fine and the plastic trunking is not going to protect it from anything. If you ever needed it replaced you would use new cable.

    That is, all it protects the wiring from is a bad plasterer with jabbing them with a trowel. But that would be a very bad plasterer.

    Yes, capping is not mandated, but it is best practice.
    It costs next to nothing.:beer:
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