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Tips & suggestions for new bathroom install
Comments
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if looking t wall panels have a good look at the corners, seams and edging finishes of a lot of brands.
Some look way lot better than others and some have points of failure potentially worse than grout.0 -
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You can tile and still have access.
If I need into my cistern or push button, it's simply a case of scraping out a little grout and lifting the panel off the top that the tiles are attached to. Re-grout after any repairs.
If it's just to check for an issue, our vanity is next to the toilet boxing in. I can put my phone on record and hold it through and video whatever is happening in there.0 -
Things to look out for if using skilled trades, or if you want a proper job
Flexi pipes in any shape or form - bodge, soldered copper tube every time
Plastic ceilings and classed walls - bodge. A porcelain tile with Mapei adhesive and grout will easily do 30 plus years . Plastered ceiling with 3/4 coats of paint, 1 mist, 1 solid plus 2 coats of bathroom paint. We have installs pushing 15yrs still on same paint with no cracking or mould. Those who claim these are the best things since sliced bread are not skilled trades
Extractor fans are a must, in-line such as a xid100 . If you can’t hear the fan working you may as not even bother. Who the heck wants to open a window in the middle of winter?? A standard timer fan set to 10 min overrun is usually sufficient . The placement of the vent is important
Geberit cisterns are about the best you can get , access via flush plate and can be fully concealed. Tanks are moulder in one piece so are bullet proof . There cistern internals can also be fitted to most cisterns .
The cost of materials is silly now, what you would get for a 1k 10 yrs ago you need to spend 2k on now
Mira, hansgrohe, geberit, Roca, duravit, ideal standard (not the cheaper ranges ) , Carron, lakes, kudos are the main brands that will give good service.
Other things to consider are stainless steel towel rads, will never rust. Unlike the chrome and white plated versions
Victoria plumb, sorry but you don’t get quality at there prices , most internet resellers are punting Chinese rubbish, no spares available . Even Triton is pretty naff..... come to to think of it most of the Uk made stuff is junk too!Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure0 -
Who the heck wants to open a window in the middle of winter?? A standard timer fan set to 10 min overrun is usually sufficient .
Me I guess! :rotfl:
Leave the window open for a couple of hours after a shower (with bathroom door shut, obviously) and never had a problem with mound. And that’s even with a son who would spend half an hour in the shower...For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple and wrong.0 -
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My 2p worth, If you can put in a shower bath it wont cost much more but has the extra space if you do fit a shower.
ALWAYS fit a fan, timer over run I agree with the many before me. We always stick a shaver socket in because the wiring is there anyway for the fan - useful for charging elec toothbrushes.
The bathroom mirrors with lighting built in and a heated face that never steam up are good if the budget will stretch.
I do quite like the plastic wall panels but doing a whole room is very trick compared to doing 1 wall. In a small room the 4ft sheets sometimes won't fit through the door!
I agree about Mapai grouts and adhesives. I like big tiles in a bathroom but put some feature into your design like a border, vertical stripe or something.Mr Generous - Landlord for more than 10 years. Generous? - Possibly but sarcastic more likely.0 -
I would spend money on good sanitary ware, taps etc.
Our bathrooms (4) are now coming up on 30 years old, installed when the house was built, all the sanitary ware still looks good. We have Armitage Shanks and Ideal Standard, good makes back then but not cheap.
Showers (3) are still the original Aqualisa though we have replaced 2 thermostatic cartridges, one control lever and one flexible hose.
Walls are tiled with reasonably large tiles and epoxy grout was used.
Pipework to showers runs in a "false wall" area which can easily be accessed from one side, with enough space to work on the pipes.
Toilets have concealed cistern with easy access from the top, lever flush, only one has needed a new part for the flush in 30 years.
Basins are inset with plenty storage below.
Extractor fans with timed overrun in all bathrooms, 2 have had to be replaced.0 -
Regards vents i saw these which looked good: https://www.airflow.com/Categories/icon_fan_range/iCON-Range whether they perform good or not i don't know.
Interesting point regards the radiator - we have a white plated one in place right now and on one of the horizontal bars there's rusting or something. It isn't smooth at any rate. The plumber who was out this week commented on the not so great quality of white and chrome as you say.
Here's one i wanted to ask - COLOUR. Colour of tiles, of panels or of whatever goes on the wall.
Now we'll end up with a white bath, white sink & white toilet and before it was even mentioned i was thinking stainless steel towel rad.
At the moment i don't know what floor material we'll use or even colour.
The key thing is the tiles/panels for the walls though as that really is what sets the bathroom off.
Now we were thinking of something like grey or black but unsure about it all being like that and whether that will just make the entire room look too dark, especially with it being small.
So just looking for feedback on what others have & what they think works, especially in a small room. I know it's all personal opinion but feel free to shoot with yours.0 -
Colour - its a personal thing. I used Parma Gray, white tiles with green/blue glass feature tiles:For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple and wrong.0
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