Question about wall heating thermostat

getmore4less

boliston wrote: »

I find that I often feel "hot" or "cold" but it's not always exactly related to the room temperature, so I have always switched on the heating if I'm hot and switched it off if I'm cold - I'm not keen on auto control as it could come on when I'm out (or asleep) and waste energy

The trick is to have the stat set in the bottom end of your comfort range, and use a boost option

Out or asleep that is what the timer is for.

The next upgrade is to have different temps at different times

I have a min in the winter when in 15c
when away for morethan a days 5c

Our comfort seems to be around 19c on the stat at 18c it feels a touch nippy for the OH.
Temperature Hysteresis +- 0.3c
Our boost cycle is set to 1c for 1hr

At 5:00am I have a preheat cycle to bring it up to 18c if it dropped below overnight.

At 6:30 I bring it up to 18.5c

At 7:00-10:30 set to 19c
if we go out earlier we can stop the cycle early
if we stay in we can do a boost or start the next cycle early.

At 18:30-20:00 set to 19c
if going out in the evening we can skip that cycle

At 20:00-23:30 19c a carry over or a rewarm if we went out.

The goals are
heating off if not there or asleep,
warm house when we come home or wake up.

castle96

I have a cheap looking ELITE thermostat which I keep having to turn up/down to get the heating to come on constantly. As far as I remember, there are just two wires connected to the back. When I look in, eg B&Q, there is a baffling variety of thermo, and price range/complication/programable.
Will all of the accept just the two wires, and still work ?
I just want something that is mre sensitive and keeps the heating on without me haveing to get up/down all the time.
(Linked to a Glowrom combi 8 yrs old)

Le_Kirk

If there are only two wires, that generally means it is battery operated with volt-free contacts and the power comes from the boiler through the contacts in the thermostat. When the temperature is below the setting, the relay operates, makes the contact and sends power back to the boiler. When the temperature reaches set point, the relay de-energises cutting off power to the boiler. Many of the replacement thermostats use a common back-plate so can be substituted one for another.

Why do you need to keep jumping up and down to adjust the thermostat. Decide the temperature that you want the room - say 19 deg, set the thermostat to 19 deg and leave it. When the room heats up, the thermostat will switch off the boiler until the room cools down. If, when the boiler has shut down, the room temperature is not to your liking, turn the thermostat up "slightly" until it clicks. Once you have found your comfort temperature, leave the thermostat alone!

castle96

There is no battery.

I have to manually click up the thermo, as otherwise it does nothing. That would be the same at 19 or 29....

TheCyclingProgrammer

boliston wrote: »

I find hallway thermostats are pretty useless and just use them as an on/off switch - the temperature control on the boiler itself is far more accurate for temperature setting

I'm sure this has already been said, but the temperature control on the boiler controls the temperature of the water in the heating system, not the house temperature. If your room thermostat doesn't work properly, get a new one.

TheCyclingProgrammer

castle96 wrote: »

There is no battery.

I have to manually click up the thermo, as otherwise it does nothing. That would be the same at 19 or 29....

Sounds like you need a new one.

castle96

"but the temperature control on the boiler controls the temperature of the water in the heating system"

I have 2 on the boiler, one for each.

"need a new one" - yes, hence my questions........