float valve in the cold water tank

phatbear

my overflow from the cold water tank keeps dripping onto my conservatory roof, which is a tad annoying, so after watching multiple youtube vids im pretty happy that its a job i can undertake however......

when ive come to buy a float valve there are high and low pressure so if i fit the wrong one will the possible issues be?

the valve which is in situ is a part one float valve, however i was going to swap this out for a type two as there appears to be more adjustment available on the arm.

so any words of advice regarding the pressure rating and any issues about swapping out a type one for a type two?

FreeBear

No need to replace the whole fitting. There should be a washer inside the valve that will probably be perishing - Dismantle the valve, replace the washer, and give the plunger a good clean/lube. If the water level in the tank is still too high, just bend the arm ever so slightly downwards so that the float ball sits lower in the tank.

impvan

If you have high mains water pressure, and you fit the low pressure valve, the possible consequences are noisy filling, and disturbance of any sediment in the tank.

If you have low mains water pressure and fit the high pressure valve the consequences are slow filling.

Low pressure valves are typically used for a toilet cistern fed by a cold water tank in the attic. Most other situations, where the valve is connected to the mains, you would fit a high-pressure version.

southcoastrgi

You need high pressure & part 2, part 1 isn’t allowed in a roof tank

phatbear

southcoastrgi wrote: »

You need high pressure & part 2, part 1 isn’t allowed in a roof tank

However my house was only built in 1999 and there is a part 1 in the roof tank.

Ok so part two and high pressure it is then.

Keep your eyes peeled for my next post which will be called "is having an indoor swimming pool in your bedroom a positive thing?"

Alfrescodave

FreeBear's advice is good, before you start replacing high/low pressure valves have a look at the washer. It's a relatively simple job to replace it ......and cheap

Moss5

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Torbeck-Side-Entry-Float-Valve/p/421335

southcoastrgi

Moss5 wrote: »

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Torbeck-Side-Entry-Float-Valve/p/421335

Fine for a wc not what you would use in a roof tank

no1catman

Agree with freebear - but first turn off the mains supply.

Once you've got a packet of ball-!!!! washers, you'll probably just need a mole grip, or adjustable wrench. Undo the end of the ball-!!!!, take off the arm, which enable the washer to come out, replace it and put everything back together again.
If the water level in the tank is low, when you turn the water back on, do it slowly, otherwise the float arm won't pivot back up but get overwhelmed by the rush of water.

IMO - you only need to replace the whole unit, if the original is an old metal one e.g. brass as they tend (in my experience) wear through the washers more quickly.

southcoastrgi

no1catman wrote: »

IMO - you only need to replace the whole unit, if the original is an old metal one e.g. brass as they tend (in my experience) wear through the washers more quickly.

The correct ballvalve will be brass not plastic, also it’s not only the rubber washer that wears out the high pressure seating will as well, yes you can replace the washer & the seating & the seating washer but tbh for less than £10 it’s rarely cost effective for something that will be in operation many times a day