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Removing paint from skirting boards

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  • Yes, sorry I suppose my wording is a bit incorrect...it is just to repaint them! Is sanding by hand ok or will we need an electric one?
  • SplanK
    SplanK Posts: 1,155 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture
    EssexExile wrote: »
    Exactly, why bother?



    Maybe they are yellowed or marked and need a freshen up?

    Yes, sorry I suppose my wording is a bit incorrect...it is just to repaint them! Is sanding by hand ok or will we need an electric one?



    Either! Depends how much you have to do really. I do all mine by hand, then give them a wipe down with a damp cloth afterwards.
  • Slinky
    Slinky Posts: 11,015 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Yes, sorry I suppose my wording is a bit incorrect...it is just to repaint them! Is sanding by hand ok or will we need an electric one?

    Polycell Liquid Sanding. Available on Amazon.

    Apply vigorously with a brush using a circular motion. Leave overnight, wash off with a cloth, wait for it to dry. Paint. Job done. It really is that easy. It chemically etches the surface of the old paint just enough for the new paint to stick.

    We've just done all the skirtings in a 4 bed house. Would have taken weeks longer and created much more mess, plus it's dangerous doing by hand if you've taken the carpets up and got gripperrods down still.
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  • martinsurrey
    martinsurrey Posts: 3,368 Forumite
    bris wrote: »
    Best and easiest way is, get a pry bar, pry off the skirting, bin and replace. Skirting is cheaper to replace than the man hours you will spend removing the paint.

    I've had a few houses where if you followed that advise you would have really annoyed the owners!

    on dot and dabbed boarded block walls, with masonry nails through the boards/dots, the skirting comes off with the dots, and the plasterboard,

    Same sort of thing on very old walls, long masonry nails rusted into 1900's lime render, and you could be pulling off huge amounts of render.

    OP, I would, and do, sand back with a palm sander (you can focus on the areas where idiots have left paint runs), prime with a GOOD primer, and then re paint.
  • ritesh
    ritesh Posts: 394 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    op - As others have mentioned just sand down the skirting boards and repaint. I had to repaint all my existing skirting due to yellowing of original gloss. I was painting all my walls too.

    Sanding the pencil edge skirting was very easy with sandpaper and a block. Essentially all you want to do is be able to create a good key. Wipe the skirting boards down with a wet cloth (keep washing it). Once all dust is removed and boards are dry you are ready to re-paint. I used Dulux satin wood one coat. Job done!

    I did this for all skirting and architraves on ground floor. Took me two days for rubbing down and a further two days for re-painting.
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  • Slinky
    Slinky Posts: 11,015 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    ritesh wrote: »
    op - As others have mentioned just sand down the skirting boards and repaint. I had to repaint all my existing skirting due to yellowing of original gloss. I was painting all my walls too.

    Sanding the pencil edge skirting was very easy with sandpaper and a block. Essentially all you want to do is be able to create a good key. Wipe the skirting boards down with a wet cloth (keep washing it). Once all dust is removed and boards are dry you are ready to re-paint. I used Dulux satin wood one coat. Job done!

    I did this for all skirting and architraves on ground floor. Took me two days for rubbing down and a further two days for re-painting.

    See the advice about liquid sanding above. Instead of 2 days sanding, this would take about 2 hours.
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  • All you need is to create enough of an uneven surface for the paint to bond. I have never heard of the liquid sanding above, but have spent a lot of years reglossing various wooden surfaces in this house, never had a problem with just a light rub down with some coarse sand paper before recoating, and where it has been worn on something like banisters it has occasionally needed a coat of combined primer/undercoat.
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