Pull cord light switch- electrics

keithdc

Probably a very simple question for someone clever.....

We have a pull cord light switch in our bedroom above the bed... 1970s style (never used by us).

We will shortly be having our bedroom ceiling over-boarded and want to remove the pull cord.
We can obviously cut the cord, but the plastic bit at the top is too deep for the new ceiling.

Can I just take the plastic bit off and then either tape the ends of the wire or do something else to make it safe?? (it will be possible to hide the wire ends very easily).

Hope that makes sense.

Le_Kirk

The safest way is to use a proper terminal box and do it from the loft/attic assuming you can gain access. Normally there is a pair of wires in a standard pull switch. One will be LIVE unless it has been disconnected at the other end. You should first check out what it does. Is it part of a two-way such that you have a switch by the door to turn the light on and use the pull-cord switch to turn it off? Once this is established and you have decided that you will NEVER need it again, pull the fuse (or drop the breaker) undo the plastic cap of the switch and remove the innards. Disconnect the wires and pull them up into the loft space, connecting them each into an EMPTY connection on a proper terminal box. Do NOT connect them together. Insert fuse/switch on breaker and make sure your other switch turns on your light.

keithdc

Le_Kirk wrote: »

The safest way is to use a proper terminal box and do it from the loft/attic assuming you can gain access. Normally there is a pair of wires in a standard pull switch. One will be LIVE unless it has been disconnected at the other end. You should first check out what it does. Is it part of a two-way such that you have a switch by the door to turn the light on and use the pull-cord switch to turn it off? Once this is established and you have decided that you will NEVER need it again, pull the fuse (or drop the breaker) undo the plastic cap of the switch and remove the innards. Disconnect the wires and pull them up into the loft space, connecting them each into an EMPTY connection on a proper terminal box. Do NOT connect them together. Insert fuse/switch on breaker and make sure your other switch turns on your light.

Thank you- unfortunately no/extremely difficult loft access so would prefer to avoid that if possible.
We are overboarding so presumably could just make hole in plaster of current ceiling and push upwards.

Configuration is that there is light switch by door. However, the pull cord works whichever position main switch is in. Does that make it easier or harder??

Is this the terminal box that i need?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/round-4-terminal-junction-box-with-knockouts-grey-65mm/53068

victor2

keithdc wrote: »

Probably a very simple question for someone clever.....

We have a pull cord light switch in our bedroom above the bed... 1970s style (never used by us).

We will shortly be having our bedroom ceiling over-boarded and want to remove the pull cord.
We can obviously cut the cord, but the plastic bit at the top is too deep for the new ceiling.

Can I just take the plastic bit off and then either tape the ends of the wire or do something else to make it safe?? (it will be possible to hide the wire ends very easily).

Hope that makes sense.

There are probably 3 wires going into the switch, one of which is a permanent live.
See http://www.lightwiring.co.uk/two-way-switching-3-wire-system-old-cable-colours/
Two of the wires should be connected in that case, you could use a junction box like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/30a-3-terminal-junction-box-white/5866d if you can get it into the ceiling space where the pull-cord switch currently is.

However, probably safer to get a sparky to do it for you.

[Deleted User]

Le_Kirk wrote: »

Do NOT connect them together. Insert fuse/switch on breaker and make sure your other switch turns on your light.

It won't.

There are three wires in a two way light switch (not including earth), and two of them need connecting together otherwise the remaining switch won't work.

OP, one of the three terminals in the pull switch will be marked "C", or "com", that wire needs connecting to one of the others (either will do, but if you try each one you can get the remaining switch to operate whichever way round you prefer).

firefox1956

OK how about a bodge job then............
Cut off the cord.
Hack a hole in the old ceiling shove the whole fitting etc through the hole.
Board & plaster over the whole lot.
Job done.
Or get an electrician in & do the job properly.
The choice is yours.

casper_g

If the junction box is going to be in an inaccessible location above the ceiling then it should not have screw terminals, as these have to be accessible for inspection. The 17th edition of the Wiring Regulations (BS7671:2008) says in Appendix 15: “Junction boxes with screw terminals must be accessible for inspection, testing & maintenance or, alternatively, use maintenance-free terminals / connection (Regulation 526.3)”

TheCyclingProgrammer

Judging from your suggestion of taping up live wires, I'm guessing you have no knowledge of electrics so please just pay an electrician for 15 minutes of his time to come and remove the fitting, make safe and test everything properly.

As above, the wires should be correctly wired together so the main switch keeps working, using a maintenance free connection (e.g. wagos) in an appropriate housing and pushed up into the loft space from below.

Le_Kirk

jack_pott wrote: »

It won't.

There are three wires in a two way light switch (not including earth), and two of them need connecting together otherwise the remaining switch won't work.

OP, one of the three terminals in the pull switch will be marked "C", or "com", that wire needs connecting to one of the others (either will do, but if you try each one you can get the remaining switch to operate whichever way round you prefer).

Doh, you are of course quite right! Having said in my post that it was 2-way, I then forgot it was 2-way!