Connecting up aftermarket stereo (Alpine CDE178BT)..?

Rover_Driver

There are often Red and Yellow cables with bullet connectors in the stereo power ISO lead as, although the layout and designation of the lead and connector is to the ISO standard, some vehicle manufactures switch the ignition and permanent 12v feed, so the stereo manufacturers fit the bullet connectors in those cables to enable the cables to be changed over and connected correctly.

Looking at the picture of the lead in post 5 that is what it is. One end of the lead plugs into the vehicle ISO connectors, the other end plugs into the stereo, with the bullet connectors between in the Red and Yellow cables.

molerat

Le_Kirk wrote: »

Well a wiring diagram will help. Don't they supply one with the units these days?

In my link

And looking at the photo again I can see the 3 red bullets are disconnected so no power to the unit at all.

Le_Kirk

^^^ Yes, it was my way of thanking you and wondering why the OP didn't have a wiring diagram/manual with the new equipment or go on line and find one!

JustAnotherSaver

Getting a wiring diagram is easy

Understanding it is different.

I look at it and from what i can read (page 50 to prove that i did at least try) i just connect up the blocks which i believe you are calling ISOs and it should work?

Now that may or may not be correct, i'm just saying that's what i take from this diagram.

And then those bullet connector things in the first photo of post #5 are related to steering wheel controls which is probably why i had to connect them up when i fitted my head unit to my car years ago as i have steering wheel controls in that car. If i remember right i needed to buy another adapter too to sort of bridge the unit and the controls.

Again this may or may not be correct, it's just what i'm taking from the diagram.

Rover_Driver

As long as the Red and Yellow cables in the ISO lead are connected as in post 9, it should work.
For the steering wheel controls you will need a steering wheel adapter lead with an Alpine patch lead.

JustAnotherSaver

Rover_Driver wrote: »

For the steering wheel controls you will need a steering wheel adapter lead with an Alpine patch lead.

And steering wheel controls not to mention the space for them also :rotfl:

DUTR

JustAnotherSaver wrote: »

Sorry it was only after packing everything away that i then thought of making this thread.

I used to be a member of a car forum years ago which was very helpful. Following guides & just asking questions on there i was able to sort my radio out no problem. This is going back a bit though & my memory isn't the best.

With a little Q&A with people who know what they're doing i think things like this you can avoid having to pay someone.



One thing i do remember is i needed a couple leads when installing in to my car. One was certainly for the steering wheel controls which this Golf doesn't need and i forget what the other one was for. There actually may not have been another one. It's been that long that i might be merging different cases in my head.



At any rate:


That is supplied with the radio. The bottom block obviously goes in to the rear of the head unit.
The top two do connect to the black and brown block connectors coming from the car itself.

As for those bullet things - no idea.



rear of the head unit.

You didn't need to chop the wires, basically you get the correct ISO connector, more than likely the permanent 12v and the switched 12v need to be reverersed the new connector allows this, also you will need the aerial adaptor to allow the 12v phantom feed otherwise you will not get good AM reception.

Stoke

Tarambor wrote: »

Given you quite clearly don't know the first thing about electrics and with the possibility of setting the car on fire being a real one then pay someone.

That's a bit of a ridiculous statement really.

Anyway, if the vehicle loom is OEM, I suggest getting a special wiring loom to install an aftermarket radio. Saves any of the nightmares and they cost a few pounds.

RhysieC

I installed an alpine not so long ago.
The bullet connectors on the wires had to be connected(you can see them in the bundled up wires in the pictures)

I think there was potentially a diagram in the booklet showing them as connectors and what they should match.
I believe it was to choose between perm live or switched live, youll be able to work out which is which by changing the connection

JustAnotherSaver

I remember on an my wifes old car having to switch the reds and yellows around i think this was to do with memory if, well, memory serves?

Anyway i think after all this i'm just going to go ahead & get a local company to do it. I don't really feel i'm any further forward in knowing what to do really so for £50 they'll fit it & route the iPod cable as well as the mic. £50 i'd rather not spend but at least it'll be done & it'll be right.