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SEAT IBIZA - Dead as a doornail
My 2006 1.4 petrol Ibiza was rough running (though only after warming up). I took the spark plugs out, gave them a clean and checked for problems. Put them back in and now it will not start at all. Took them out again and checked the plugs and there is no sign of a spark at all when I turn it over.
Any suggestions of what I might try before I pay for a man with a diagnostics set to come round and fleece me for a list of fault codes?
Have I screwed up the immobiliser? Would it turn over at all if it was immobilised?
Any suggestions of what I might try before I pay for a man with a diagnostics set to come round and fleece me for a list of fault codes?
Have I screwed up the immobiliser? Would it turn over at all if it was immobilised?
Optimists see a glass half full 
Pessimists see a glass half empty
Engineers just see a glass twice the size it needed to be

Pessimists see a glass half empty

Engineers just see a glass twice the size it needed to be

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Comments
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Any warning lights on the dashboard?"You were only supposed to blow the bl**dy doors off!!"0
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I don't think it's the immobiliser: If it's armed, you should see the flashing light on the door going, and I think the alarm will go off on an Ibiza if you try to start it whilst immobilised according to the handbook.
How are you checking the plugs for a spark?
I believe that's the engine with the 'untidy' looking wiring under the engine top cover and individual long coil packs - check that you haven't dislodged any connectors.0 -
Engine warning light is on, but goes off after about 4-5 seconds of cranking, then after another 2-3 seconds the oil pressure lamp illuminates and beeps.Optimists see a glass half full
Pessimists see a glass half empty
Engineers just see a glass twice the size it needed to be0 -
I took the plugs out and fitted them back into the coil packs then rested them on the camshaft cover with the thread of the plug touching the metalwork. Not a spark in sight from any of the 4 plugs.
And yes - it is the engine with 4 coil packs and LV wiring to each one. And I've checked the wiring is intact.
Beginning to wonder if it might be the camshaft tacho - but Lloyds say they've never sold one (unlike the coil packs) so reckon they're pretty reliable.Optimists see a glass half full
Pessimists see a glass half empty
Engineers just see a glass twice the size it needed to be0 -
Check that you haven't disturbed the camshaft sensor plug.0
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I'm a bit stuck for suggestions now then: You can certainly try disconnecting the battery for ten minutes or so, then reconnecting (probably a waste of time, but may make you feel like you're doing something!), but reading around, VAG cars of that era can suffer ECU failure. You'd need some proper diagnosis before going any further - it may be worth trying a cheap code reader if you have one or know someone with one, as a failed ECU generally won't allow any communication with a reader. Inability to connect, regardless of actually reading codes, may indicate such a problem.0
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Engine cutting out and then being difficult to start when hot is often a sign of a failing crank position sensor. When the sensor fails the ecu does not get the timing signal to fire the plugs so no spark.0
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I have owned a leon cupra for several years and learned plenty, and the above post is more than likely a good starting point. ive had my car break down several miles from home and had to walk to ECP to get a new sensor. running like crap can also be coil packs but Im not sure all would go at once!0
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A clever feature of some immobilisers, is that they let you crank the engine uselessly ; so if you are trying to hack it, you only get so many goes before the battery is flat. Some work by a radio handshake when you turn the key in the ignition; but to speed things up, remote unlocking the doors "un-immobilises" for a few seconds ; and that can bypass some of the normal un-immobilising mechanism.0
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