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Wardrobe door - Fix

Runningfast
Posts: 224 Forumite

Hi,
I have built in floor to ceiling wardrobes and the doors are held on to the frame by 4 hinges per door.
Unfortunately the door has taken a knock while open (over extended) and has fell off ripping out all of the screws. I can't just screw the doors back on as the screw holes have widened and in some cases ripped the wood as the screws have pulled out. I can't move the hinges as they are sunken in to the door. etc.
Anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do to repair the frame to allow me to rehang the door?
Thanks
I have built in floor to ceiling wardrobes and the doors are held on to the frame by 4 hinges per door.
Unfortunately the door has taken a knock while open (over extended) and has fell off ripping out all of the screws. I can't just screw the doors back on as the screw holes have widened and in some cases ripped the wood as the screws have pulled out. I can't move the hinges as they are sunken in to the door. etc.
Anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do to repair the frame to allow me to rehang the door?
Thanks
0
Comments
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Quite often you can plug the hole and screw into it again. Use some soft wood timber - any scrap of wood will do it.Trim it to fit and hammer it in, then re screw the door. If its only slightly too big or they are small screws you can plug with cocktail sticks and snap / cut them flush to the surface. If none of these work buy some plugging compound, its a chemical putty that sets hard and can be screwed into. Very rare to need that, wood dowels shaved down and hammered in usually works.Mr Generous - Landlord for more than 10 years. Generous? - Possibly but sarcastic more likely.0
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Mr.Generous wrote: »Quite often you can plug the hole and screw into it again. Use some soft wood timber - any scrap of wood will do it.Trim it to fit and hammer it in, then re screw the door. If its only slightly too big or they are small screws you can plug with cocktail sticks and snap / cut them flush to the surface. If none of these work buy some plugging compound, its a chemical putty that sets hard and can be screwed into. Very rare to need that, wood dowels shaved down and hammered in usually works.
Cheers, I will give those suggestion ago tomorrow. Thanks0 -
Remember the screws grip by exerting sideways pressure, and man-made boards are not as good at taking this as natural timber. That's why chipboard screws don't have a thick none threaded shank like wood screws do. A fully threaded screw is best, and three small scraps of timber leaving a tiny centre hole for the screw to bite into and force the wood out sideways is the best way. It sounds rubbish, but the cocktail stick method works well with small screws.
Traditional woodscrew - shank is wider than thread. (very strong in plastic plugs because of this)
S
Chipboard screw - threaded all the way up and less likely to split mdf / chipboard / man-made board of any sort.
Screws and fixings are interesting stuff! Don't get me started on them!Mr Generous - Landlord for more than 10 years. Generous? - Possibly but sarcastic more likely.0 -
Hi,here's a wee video, give you an idea of the job, you could probably manage without the glue and chisel.0
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