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Any mechanics about...
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Ever get the feeling you are wasting your time? :rolleyes:0
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scheming_gypsy wrote: »probably looking around £500 for the head gasket, just had to pay a £400 bill today as well
Yeh give it ago. Its bugging me now. What was the £400 bill for.If i could i would, but i cannot so i wont, but maybe one day i will.0 -
nothing car related. I thought i was paying by DD for gs and leccy. Turned out they just hadn't bothered sending me a bill in the 2 1/2 years i've lived here. Paid half last month and the other half today.
Albert, keep checking on there.. applied for one at 3:30pm today and got a call from the agency at 3:40pm, possible interview next week as they want somebody to start ASAP0 -
I don't know if this helps, but if the pump isn't working, I don't believe the fan comes on either. If the water pump is leaking, or a hose leading from it, it may only leak when the water's under pressure so you may not see a puddle under the car. Have you had a good look under the bonnet to see if there's any signs of leaking from any seals?Debt at highest: £6,290.72 (14.2.1999)
Debt free success date: 14.8.2006 :j0 -
not yet but will go for a run out tomorrow, come back and jack it up to see if i can see anything.0
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There are 2 water temp sensors, one for the dash display and one for the fan, there is also a pressure switch as a back up for the fan (if the temp sensor is faulty the increase in pressure in the system triggers the fan).
My guess is that it is Head gasket (how many miles) the water level could be below the rad temp switch so the rad fan never comes on. and whilst you are parked water is going into your cylinder.
You need a compression check ASAP, buy a DIY tester from Halfords and DIY not too expensive about 20 quid and not too difficult to do.0 -
cheers Wig, i'll nip out and buy one.
Its done a fair few miles, about 106,000 so head gasket is a big possibility even though i'd rather not admit it0 -
Called a
Gunson's HI-GAUGE
In a blue blister pack.
1. Disconnect the coil HT lead
2. Find Fuel pump relay and pull it out - might be shown on the lid of your fuse/relay box(es) - You will be able to hear the fuel pump go buzz (for 1 second) when you turn the ignition key to the 'On' position (not start position). When you have succesfully removed the fuel pump relay you will no longer hear this buzz when you turn the key to 'ignition on'
3. put compression checker into 1st plug hole, unless you have a helper, try to position it where you can see it while you turn the key.
4. Turn key for a couple of seconds, the needle will jump up in a few quick steps (about 2 - 3 steps) then it only jumps a little and remains fairly constant, stop the key now, read it & note it down. release the pressure and repeat, so you have 2 or 3 readings. Replace spark plug. - Although what I sometimes do is remove all plugs at the same time but I guess this is not recommended because it puts an uneven load on the pistonsbut I do it anyway.
5 Move onto next cylinder and repeat.
6. If you have one that is too low, squirt or pour a teaspoon of motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Repeat the test. If it become normal or nearly normal then your problem is piston rings ( but we have coolant loss here so this is unlikely to occur unless the HG has been gone a long time and it has now affected your pistion rings.)0 -
As above but with the engine at operating temperature first.0
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well that just confused me!!
just taken her for a blast, come back and popped the bonnet and the water is going when moving.
going off here http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070518100125AAeMD8I
i've checked all the stuff they mention:
doesn't appear to be water mixing with the oil.
can't see any water coming out of the exhaust
still driving like a beast so no loss of power
all pipes get hot.
car isn't overheating unless the thermostat is wrong
heater works and no water going into the car
going to phone the garage to see if they can look but being kicked out of work yesterday it ain't what i need0
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