New Kitchen, how much?

leveller2911

Furts wrote: »

From a building perspective the concept of running work surfaces onto window cills does not work without remedial works to the cill.

Nice to see the traditional ways still alive and kicking.

I tend to spell it "sill" on MSE as not many people know the traditional spelling.

:beer:

moneyistooshorttomention

Furts wrote: »

We have a huge slab of quartz behind the oven/hobs to act as a splashback, with quartz splashbacks elsewhere to match the worktops.

Be aware of any kitchen designers - I have only ever met one that I deemed competent and maintain the industry is staffed by countless over priced, over rated fools. (This splashback was not proposed by such folks - they got it wrong on a number of occasions) and the splashbacks elsewhere were all specified far too low, though this got spotted early on.

From a building perspective the concept of running work surfaces onto window cills does not work without remedial works to the cill. A worktop is far deeper than tiles. Additionally, if it is laminate you have to consider cut ends, sealing, lipping and condensation and damp. Tiles always went on such window cills for good reasons - though today such fundamentals seem to be forgotten by many kitchen designers.

Back to Davesnave - I always respect his judgement and I too am a fan of Duropal. Upstands are available at less depth than worktops but you will still have to control your margins on your kitchen window cill.

1. What sort of height of splashback do you think is optimum behind worktops?

2. What sort of remedial works do you envisage to the kitchen window cill?
a. It is a pretty small kitchen window - and not some big feature window and, as far as I can see it's in basic decent order. That being - it will need existing tiles on it removed and, with that, there will be a bit of plastering work to be done before I can have the new cill put down. But I am expecting a bit of plastering work to be necessary anyway - courtesy of having to remove the wall tiles currently there in between base units and wall units.

b. I like the look of some tiles - but am wary of doing this again - because I can see all too clearly how the grout between them goes all manky (hence wanting a surface that is easy to maintain for a housework hater/useless at DIY person like myself).

Furts

moneyistooshorttomention wrote: »

1. What sort of height of splashback do you think is optimum behind worktops?

2. What sort of remedial works do you envisage to the kitchen window cill?
a. It is a pretty small kitchen window - and not some big feature window and, as far as I can see it's in basic decent order. That being - it will need existing tiles on it removed and, with that, there will be a bit of plastering work to be done before I can have the new cill put down. But I am expecting a bit of plastering work to be necessary anyway - courtesy of having to remove the wall tiles currently there in between base units and wall units.

b. I like the look of some tiles - but am wary of doing this again - because I can see all too clearly how the grout between them goes all manky (hence wanting a surface that is easy to maintain for a housework hater/useless at DIY person like myself).

Splashbacks - I have some Duropal around 120mm high. Personal choice but I consider this too low. (Even brickwork detailing is a minimum of 150mm and ideally 225mm) The splashbacks should go up nearer to sockets to give wall protection. If you have quartz, granite or whatever you can specify what you like. My quartz are, iirr, around 170mm high.

My quartz splashback at the hob goes up behind the cooker hood. It is personal preference but you want protection, heat proofing and cleaning. You ought to aim at least to the bottom of your pelmet detail, or cupboard detail.

With windows you have a margin around the frame. If the build and plastering is correct your margin on each side of the vertical reveals is the same and likewise at your cill. (However here the overriding starting point is where the rebate is to receive the cill board.) If you were to put a 40mm deep piece of worktop on your existing window cill it will probably look odd to any builder, or anyone with OCD, or anyone with attention to detail.

None of this might worry you and if so that is fine with me.

MrsBSaver

I would recommend Benchmarxx for your kitchen units and AO or Selco for your appliances.

Davesnave

MrsBSaver wrote: »

I would recommend Benchmarxx for your kitchen units and AO or Selco for your appliances.

Depends on who's supplying the kitchen, but the independent kitchen company I used beat AO and other box-shifting companies hollow for electricals.

moneyistooshorttomention

Thanks Furts.

I have virtually decided to have my kitchen worktop extend up the wall behind cooker hob and have the kitchen windowsill covered with the same material.

I've not yet decided on width of kitchen worktop material - but your comments there are inclining me to choose the narrowest (which I think is 20ml). It would probably look better at those two points if it were narrower.

I can't see any virtue either way to having either the thinnest possible or the thickest possible worktop as worktop per se (other than the price one - ie of thinner being cheaper).

Now wondering if the width of worktop makes any difference when having Silestone worktop and identical material seamless sink? I wouldnt have thought it would....

NB: Sink I'll be having@

https://www.checkatrade.com/Reputation/Album.aspx?id=31398&companyid=272661

Furts

moneyistooshorttomention wrote: »

Thanks Furts.

I have virtually decided to have my kitchen worktop extend up the wall behind cooker hob and have the kitchen windowsill covered with the same material.

I've not yet decided on width of kitchen worktop material - but your comments there are inclining me to choose the narrowest (which I think is 20ml). It would probably look better at those two points if it were narrower.

I can't see any virtue either way to having either the thinnest possible or the thickest possible worktop as worktop per se (other than the price one - ie of thinner being cheaper).

Now wondering if the width of worktop makes any difference when having Silestone worktop and identical material seamless sink? I wouldnt have thought it would....

NB: Sink I'll be having@

https://www.checkatrade.com/Reputation/Album.aspx?id=31398&companyid=272661

Worktops should have an overhang past the base units in order to protect them. Duropal make laminate with an in built drip groove made with this in mind.

Current fashions dictate worktops flush with base units - not good practice, but it enables the kitchen industry to speed up the deterioration of the base units and hence increase their sales!

wymondham

Get your units from http://www.diy-kitchens.com/ All made up and better quality than most at cheaper prices.....

also i'm a fan of wooden worktops - look great and are not difficult to look after..... you get the looks of quality without the silly prices of granite etc... plus you can install yourself if like (I got ours pre-cut at http://www.worktop-express.co.uk/ so didn't have to get the saw out and hence not wonky!!)

moneyistooshorttomention

Furts wrote: »

Worktops should have an overhang past the base units in order to protect them. Duropal make laminate with an in built drip groove made with this in mind.

Current fashions dictate worktops flush with base units - not good practice, but it enables the kitchen industry to speed up the deterioration of the base units and hence increase their sales!

Duly noted.

Right - I've been noting your comments and duly written notes of my requirements from that:

- worktop to overhang base units
- upstands = I reckon I'll go for 150mm up the wall then
- worktop thickness and I see the available thicknesses for this material seem to come in 1.2, 2 and 3 cm. Think I shall go for the 2cm one then (bearing in mind the kitchen windowcill to be covered with it).

That's 3 exact specifications added to my list then from your suggestions. I'm picturing the kitchen designer groaning now when I go in and say "That worktop, in that thickness, with that edge, in that finish, in that colour, etc, etc".

I shall worry about how my bank account is going to be groaning at the thought of paying for this later....

Furts

moneyistooshorttomention wrote: »

Duly noted.

Right - I've been noting your comments and duly written notes of my requirements from that:

- worktop to overhang base units
- upstands = I reckon I'll go for 150mm up the wall then
- worktop thickness and I see the available thicknesses for this material seem to come in 1.2, 2 and 3 cm. Think I shall go for the 2cm one then (bearing in mind the kitchen windowcill to be covered with it).

That's 3 exact specifications added to my list then from your suggestions. I'm picturing the kitchen designer groaning now when I go in and say "That worktop, in that thickness, with that edge, in that finish, in that colour, etc, etc".

I shall worry about how my bank account is going to be groaning at the thought of paying for this later....

Do not write off Duropal laminate worktops. I have yet to see Silestone produced with a drip detail, so this is inferior in this respect. I recall seeing Caesarstone with such a detail, but have never sought out installations to check on this.

I am approaching this all from a building perspective, too which I would add things like 180 hinges with soft closers - nominal extra cost, and decent doors.

Remember it is fashionable for concealed/handleless but you have to consider does this comply with old age, disability and eye impairment. Here think for a moment on door handles in houses - they should be chunky, easily gripped, not knobs, and colour contrasting to the door. People give zero consideration to this and likewise the volume builders - but that is another story!