New Kitchen, how much?

always_sunny

leveller2911 wrote: »

The Hygena 8 would take a fitter 2.5 days including putting the flat pack units together. So 1 man 2.5 days then on top of that any plumbing work and electrical work. Ripping out the old kitchen would take half a day if it's roughly the same size as the Hygena 8 so £1500 is way over the top.

If the existing plumbing and electrics are roughly in the right place for the new kitchen layout I can't see it would cost more than £1000 complete job .

so better not to use the guys from Homebase then and get local contractors to do it?
2.5 days to put together 8 cabinets??

moneyistooshorttomention

always_sunny wrote: »

£34k?
9mx3m??? Is it an industrial kitchen? I must ask for a reference photo to grasp the concept!

Has now revised my idea of what job Rainshadow probably has to one of the more "executive" level jobs in the Welsh Assembly to be able to afford one at that level....:eek::eek:

Davesnave

moneyistooshorttomention wrote: »

. The fact that the worksurface probably won't be laminate has increased the cost a lot - a couple of thousand £s extra to have one of the more "modern" surfaces (or possibly granite) instead of laminate.

All round - the rough guesstimate figure I've been quoted is around £11,000! Eek! Sighs!

Well, I have laminate, and while I wouldn't pretend its anything special, it's functional and matches the overall quality of the kitchen, which is mid-range....or high range if we are talking Howdens! :rotfl: i.e. just like their Tewkesbury, but made here in Devon, apart from the doors, which are typically sourced from a huge producer in Ireland.

There are different makes of laminate; I specified Duropal, which is one of the best ones.

Davesnave

always_sunny wrote: »

so better not to use the guys from Homebase then and get local contractors to do it?
2.5 days to put together 8 cabinets??

I can understand the 2.5 days.

Went into Homebase for a kitchen designing session and left over 2 hours later with nothing.

They said their software was new and they hadn't quite got the feel of it. I'd got the feel of things there anyway and never went back.

To be fair, I was only looking for ideas.....:o

moneyistooshorttomention

Davesnave wrote: »

Well, I have laminate, and while I wouldn't pretend its anything special, it's functional and matches the overall quality of the kitchen, which is mid-range....or high range if we are talking Howdens! :rotfl: i.e. just like their Tewkesbury, but made here in Devon, apart from the doors, which are typically sourced from a huge producer in Ireland.

There are different makes of laminate; I specified Duropal, which is one of the best ones.

I'll google that Duropal and see what I think. Ta.

One of the reasons I'm thinking of one of the "other" surfaces is that I want the kitchen work surface to blend on into "upstands" at the junction between work surface and wall. Another one is it's being suggested I could also use the "other" work surface to continue on up behind the sink and up over the kitchen windowsill (ie rather than have tiles). With that - the savings from having a laminate worksurface would be reduced by the cost of a tiler coming in doing some tiling for me. The kitchen plan to date doesn't include having any tiling.

What do you think of that idea?

EDIT; It's also being suggested I should continue the "other" type worksurface up the wall behind the cooker (ie as cooker splashback) - instead of having tiles or a metal splashback. Any thoughts?

Davesnave

moneyistooshorttomention wrote: »

I'll google that Duropal and see what I think. Ta.

One of the reasons I'm thinking of one of the "other" surfaces is that I want the kitchen work surface to blend on into "upstands" at the junction between work surface and wall. Another one is it's being suggested I could also use the "other" work surface to continue on up behind the sink and up over the kitchen windowsill (ie rather than have tiles). With that - the savings from having a laminate worksurface would be reduced by the cost of a tiler coming in doing some tiling for me. The kitchen plan to date doesn't include having any tiling.

What do you think of that idea?

EDIT; It's also being suggested I should continue the "other" type worksurface up the wall behind the cooker (ie as cooker splashback) - instead of having tiles or a metal splashback. Any thoughts?

It's possible to continue a laminatre surface up the wall behind as an upstand. I have that. It's only 75mm high. but that's enough and there may well be other options.

On the window sill behind the sink I went for granite, because we stand plant pots there.

Behind the cooker we used tiles, because everything else was plain and we needed something lively. Like this, but nicer!


I wouldn't put a laminate directly behind a hob/cooker. I think it's a bit of a heavy duty area and needs different treatment.

leveller2911

always_sunny wrote: »

so better not to use the guys from Homebase then and get local contractors to do it?
2.5 days to put together 8 cabinets??

Homebase,Wickes,B&Q etc sub contract out the fitting service to another company. So Homebase will take their cut of the fitting price then the Sub contract company will take their cut and the self employed fitter will probably get £500 to fit it. So I would look for a recommendation for a local fitter.

The example you gave as the Hygena 8 is very few units and a straight length of worktop , no light pelments or cornices so yes it would be about 2.5 days for a fitter plus plumbing, electrical and ripping out the old kitchen which if its roughly the same size as the Hygena 8 then its 2-4hrs work for one man. If the sink,hob etc are going back in roughly the same place as the old kitchen there shouldn't be a lot of plumbing ,electrical alterations to be done so you should save a fair amount on what they quoted you.

Furts

moneyistooshorttomention wrote: »

I'll google that Duropal and see what I think. Ta.

One of the reasons I'm thinking of one of the "other" surfaces is that I want the kitchen work surface to blend on into "upstands" at the junction between work surface and wall. Another one is it's being suggested I could also use the "other" work surface to continue on up behind the sink and up over the kitchen windowsill (ie rather than have tiles). With that - the savings from having a laminate worksurface would be reduced by the cost of a tiler coming in doing some tiling for me. The kitchen plan to date doesn't include having any tiling.

What do you think of that idea?

EDIT; It's also being suggested I should continue the "other" type worksurface up the wall behind the cooker (ie as cooker splashback) - instead of having tiles or a metal splashback. Any thoughts?

We have a huge slab of quartz behind the oven/hobs to act as a splashback, with quartz splashbacks elsewhere to match the worktops.

Be aware of any kitchen designers - I have only ever met one that I deemed competent and maintain the industry is staffed by countless over priced, over rated fools. (This splashback was not proposed by such folks - they got it wrong on a number of occasions) and the splashbacks elsewhere were all specified far too low, though this got spotted early on.

From a building perspective the concept of running work surfaces onto window cills does not work without remedial works to the cill. A worktop is far deeper than tiles. Additionally, if it is laminate you have to consider cut ends, sealing, lipping and condensation and damp. Tiles always went on such window cills for good reasons - though today such fundamentals seem to be forgotten by many kitchen designers.

Back to Davesnave - I always respect his judgement and I too am a fan of Duropal. Upstands are available at less depth than worktops but you will still have to control your margins on your kitchen window cill.

moneyistooshorttomention

I found that Wickes were quoting me as £1500 upwards for the fitter costs.

Obviously - whatever kitchen one gets - then the fitter costs will be a substantial part of it.

I would say that the way to look at it is that basically (with most kitchens) the major components of cost will be:

- the units
- the worksurface (unless its laminate)
- the fitting

The other stuff (like decorating, floor covering, etc) aren't going to come to that much - unless one picks mega-luxury level all round on that.

Davesnave

Furts wrote: »

Back to Davesnave - I always respect his judgement and I too am a fan of Duropal. Upstands are available at less depth than worktops but you will still have to control your margins on your kitchen window cill.

I'm sure my judgement on Duropal came originally from someone's judgement and recommendation on here!