The sewing thread

rosie51

Kittie how i remember being 34 24 36, more like 42 36 42 now. Still i am contented to be as i am. Just a few nips and tucks here, i am kidding.

PollyWollyDoodle

This is why I want to be able to sew my own clothes - I want things to fit, and I'm fed up with the way manufacturers' sizes vary so much. I ordered some jeans online recently, supposedly size 18 but one pair would barely go over my thighs ... doesn't help the self confidence or morale!

Yesterday I sewed the muslin and tried it on, the adjustments I made on the pattern before cutting are good but there are a couple of small fixes, there's too much length in the back and I think I need to take a bit out at the shoulder. If I made this up in a closely patterned fabric I doubt if these areas would show up much, but I'm going to get this right. I am learning so much about patterns and fitting just from this simple exercise.

[Deleted User]

this fabric is nice, good colours and pattern and quality is lovely. Its washing now, washing will remove the added finish, so will decide after.
https://www.croftmill.co.uk/products/fabric-by-width/fabric-by-width-144cm-56-and-above/floral-cotton-elastane-trousering-fabric-product.html
The purple parts are on each selvedge side and the slight stretch is side to side, I was thinking of trying to incorporate the purples as splashes. Got to lay the pieces so that stretch happens across the body. Should make a top quality garment if I can do that, I may have to cut one piece at a time, following the length of the fabric. It`s just out the wash and feels much more drapey and a tad finer, so could well make an elastic waist skirt, maybe I`ll do an 8 gore elastic waist. It`s 146 cm wide after washing. I`ll see how it dries but think it will retain its drapey nature. I can`t believe how much finish some manufacturers put on their fabrics for sale. Hardly any fabrics handle the same after washing. I could make the PP flirty skirt, cutting on the bias so I get splashes of purple. Cutting will take longer than making. Fingers crossed that it remains drapey

still not sewing, just pottering and waiting for two fabrics to dry, so I can bundle them with patterns. One fabric out of my stash is suitable for the nightie/wrap combo, I`ll wash it later just in case I didn`t, just a wool wash. I know I did all the cotton t shirt types and linens but not sure about the rest. Looks like two nightie/wrap combos will be in my pattern/fabric bundles. It`s certainly going to help me get through my stashes over time. Will be knitting later

edit: me too Polly re manufacturers sizing. I can`t tell you how many things I have wasted since my body changed. Sort of fitted but never feeling quite right. I can`t see me buying again tbh. I sent two skirts back to MnS the other week, got 2 sizes and neither felt right but anyway I was in sewing mojo by then so sent them back and bought fabric online with the refund

Keep us posted about the muslin

silvasava

Most of my sewing lately has been mending,making cushion covers or alterations but reading through the thread has got me interested in sewing for myself again.
I am tall with a 34" inside leg so trousers have always been a problem added to by me having no bum to speak of! I baulk at paying £50.00 for a pair of jeans in LTS when something very similar but 2 inches shorter is £15.00 in the SM. I have a trouser pattern and a shift dress pattern that I need to check the measurements on - most of me seems to be moving south!!
Thanks for the link to Croft Mill Kittie - I've saved it as they seem to do an excellent range of fabrics at reasonable prices. My two local fabric shops have gone - the only one I do have is Blendworth Fabrics just up the road from me but its all furnishing although I have been known to make a dress from curtain fabric in the past.

[Deleted User]

it becomes a nice addiction silvasava, as soon as you make anything that well and truly fits

flirty skirt is going to be in my limited selection of makes that will turn out. I have just copied the pattern as it is originally on thin tissue and I added 1.25" on the length, cut the line, added tissue and used sticky tape. One piece only. I cut all the lines very accurately and added length to the now moved grain lines, they are both on grain and to cut bias. The pack is fantastic, one of those things I bought 4 years ago. Excellent quality book with 4 good patterns in a pocket at the front. Called perfect plus and published by singer, by Kathleen Cheetham, therefore for shorter, rounder, all gone south, people eg the set skirt length is 26. I see some on amazon that look like bargains, just check that the 4 patterns are in there. £12 max for new plus pnp. That is the cost of one pattern, never mind the glossy book

lol, amazon says that I bought it new in august 2013 and it was £8.96 and that tbh is one fantastic bargain,

[Deleted User]

I have spent the whole afternoon altering a pattern, using my measurements. A simple pattern that may well be useful. Before I started I read all the reviews I could and general consensus was that people liked the pattern but it was not fitted enough and the neckline was too wide, especially on the larger sizes. Sleeves too long too
https://grainlinestudio.com/shop/women/linden-sweatshirt-paper/

The pattern went from size 0 to 18 american sizes. If I had picked my hip size 18 then it would have been swimming from the underarm up and there would be no shaping at my waist. I measured all areas very carefully and settled on neck to underarm in 12, also thinking that the neck might well be ok in that size, so I left it. Extended to 14 at the underam and then used my grading ruler, curved out to 18 at the hem but hitting the right size plus enough ease at the waist, wrt back waist length of 15.5

I copied it, as again, it was that dreadful thin tissue. I had to put a large sheet of white card on my table as there would have been no chance of seeing the pencil markings through the swedish paper over brown or green. I don`t intend to use any ribbing fabric. The sleeves are the right length without it and the hem will be fine without it. The SAs are only 1/4" so I won`t be overlocking. I will be finishing the neck with fabric not rib

I will be using atelier french terry and am noticing that there are 2 way stretches but not as much from selvedge to selvedge, so will be cutting with the main stretching going across the pattern for the neck band at least as they say it needs to be pulled a lot to get it to fit. I may cut it all that way, have to see. Fabric is washing and will be dry in the morning

If this pattern works then it will be a good one to repeat, I have my fingers crossed.

[Deleted User]

I have packed up now and feel tired, its past my bedtime. I had no clue how to make the neckline smaller from raglans on this linden. First attempt was carp, I added on 2" and then tried to patch it onto my muslin. Took several tries before I decided to abandon patching and I started again with new alterations and a new copy. Meanwhile my original thin tissue pattern looked as though it had been through the wringer and has plenty of red dots on it, where the sharpie leaked through the swedish paper.

New alterations: size 16 from underarm up plus an added 5/8 inch from the size 16 shoulder level on each involved piece, this will make the neckline smaller. Graded underarm 16 down to hem 18 and I am leaving it at that. The muslin, using thin cotton stretch stash was ok but will be better a bit bigger hence the size increase. Sewing up is a complete doddle, took me minutes to baste the muslin. Hardest and most important will be the neckband and I am going for a 3/4 stretch

Thank goodness I have tidied up with another layer under the table cloths, white card covered in red dots. The mess spread everywhere while I got frustrated. Its done, finished and can be cut out in the good fabric as soon as

[Deleted User]

a pattern notcher, I have one and would not be without it now, only got mine two months ago but its such a positive easy cut compared to scissors. Amazon £2.15 which includes pnp. I started with traingles, as we were all taught then, then went onto slits and they were not always accurate, sometimes too long and slanting. I cannot believe that notchers are far better but they are

Did some fabric ironing today as it helps to get that grain line down the middle. Then cut out my 6 gore flirty skirt in bias, I never thought that my turquoise and purple fabric would be enough so I positioned the one pattern piece 6 times, 3 down one side and 3 down the other, all travelling in the same direction. Each time I did the outline with pins as I wasn`t sure if I could get it all on. 2.5m, must have been a generous cut as there is enough left for a childs skirt, not me but in my dgd`s box of bits for her to play with. 3 purples on the left hem and 3 on the right hem. Packaged and bundled with the pattern for another month

Also cut out linden in sweatshirt fabric, cut the added hem end in case I want it which I doubt and longer than needed neck bands in cross and straight grain. If I ever did that pattern in a woven fabric, possible as it would make a nice high hip t shirt too, then I would cut a neckband in bias

Keep sewing ladies, look how much we are saving
https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/online/stella-mccartney/women/ready-to-wear

Its the fabrics, really it is. I am going to explore double gauze next.
https://drapersdaughter.com/collections/fabrics/products/kokka-fruit-like-dots-light-blue-on-light-grey

I already bought a 3m length and it is hanging out over a rack to dry, washed on delicate at 30. Its only 110cm wide so will probably make a top like sew liberated esme. Cost me £72 but that is good for designer kokka japanese double gauze. Anyway compare it to
https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/stella-mccartney/shirt_cod12027796hk.html#dept=main_shirts_tops

Artytarty

A pattern notcher?! Who could have imagined such a thing exists.
I think I shall get one. I used to do the triangles or sometimes tailors tacks but I've got sloppy and they are not that accurate as you say. Some time I just ignore them and hope for the best by measuring from the paper pattern when I get to that bit.
Sounds like handy gadget.
P.s. I've bought one!

[Deleted User]

Does anyone know of a shortcut to tailors tacks?

Its been a more balanced day today, I stopped cycling when the weather got very hot and started lurking indoors, I am not much good in the heat, went to the allotment early mornings and that was it. Cycle ride today did happen, not far, just 5 miles but a few hills, then straight into allotment jobs. It gives me thinking time as well as keeps me moving

I am going to copy my size in esme next, straight off the pattern, no alterations. I have to copy as my size is not the largest. Then I will sew properly via a muslin made from some of the tarton brushed cotton shirting, of which I have much as it was destined for hubbies shirts. If that fits then I will go onto better fabric in due course but that tartan will be good for autumn anyway. Btw, I read about stitch lengths last night and the standard length for quilting is 2.2 and for all clothing sewing is 3.5 as it gives much neater seams when pressed.