Dry ridge system. Any good?

ANGLICANPAT

Our roofer is quoting for a roll out dry ridge system for the coping tiles on the new roof . Are they a bad short cut, or a new good innovation . Are they just plastic that will go brittle and start cracking, or are they something else? Would value opinions please .

Chanes

I would guess the same materials used as a dry verge? And they seem to last a long time.

Furts

The dry ridge must be compatible with your roofing. For example, if you have a Redland Regent roof tile then the ridge must be appropriate to go with that.

Dry ridges were introduced because of endless bad workmanship by sloppy, incompetent roofers. If you have a dry ridge installed it can be argued it is a modern way to de-skill roofing. It is vital it is correctly installed to the manufacturers instructions.

I am not a fan of dry ridges, and all the ridges on my house are done traditionally with mortar, and - this is the vital item always overlooked for roofs such as mine - dentil slips.

tacpot12

The plastic should be UV-stabalised but the systems are relatively new so there is not a lot of information available about their lifespan in service. The plastic that is covered by the tiles should last a long time, but I'd be concerned about the exposed plastic. If I were fitting one, I would go with a good brand and use stainless steel clamping plates (like those from TIL-R), not plastic ones.

I also like the rigid Marley ventilated system rather than the roll-on variety.

ANGLICANPAT

ok, so ok as long as he applies properly it would seem. Would it be something building regs would check?
1)Would I be able to know if hed attached them property after they were on?
2)Should all 50yr old batons be replaced even if look ok?
3) How many layers of breathable felt go over the rafters please and is there a particular quality/thickness/ thats a 'must' standard?

4) Anything else I should watch out for ? Its a straightforward 2 bed small semi bungalow,quite shallow roof, so its just a front, matching back, and smaller hip side between those . Concrete tiles. £4500

Furts

ANGLICANPAT wrote: »

ok, so ok as long as he applies properly it would seem. Would it be something building regs would check?
1)Would I be able to know if hed attached them property after they were on?
2)Should all 50yr old batons be replaced even if look ok?
3) How many layers of breathable felt go over the rafters please and is there a particular quality/thickness/ thats a 'must' standard?

4) Anything else I should watch out for ? Its a straightforward 2 bed small semi bungalow,quite shallow roof, so its just a front, matching back, and smaller hip side between those . Concrete tiles. £4500

To re-iterate my point it would be folly to follow the roofers advice. The roll on ridge detail is a way to make a quick buck at your expense.

If you have a professional roofer, and any genuine concern for getting the work done correctly, it should go like this:

1) your roof tile is, say, Redland Regent

2) you contact Redland with your roof design, postcode and details

3) you receive a proven fixing specification for your roof in writing from Redland. This will give the details on everything.

4) this becomes a contractral matter between you and your roofer.

5) you, or a professional, monitor the work by inspection with reference to the details supplied by Redland

6) Redland guarantee their products provided they are fixed in accordance with their recommendations.

7) to get this guarantee you will not be re-using 50 year old battens - get real here!

Not all roofers will want to work like this. However those that will not will be the cowboys. You then decide who you wish to engage!

ANGLICANPAT

Wow, thanks a lot Furts

malc_b

You can have a dry ridge that uses standard ridge tiles, have a look here. The smart ridge is plastic, the others use standard ridge/hip tiles with metal and plastic clip system. The advantage of dry roof systems, ridge/hip/verge/valley, is no mortar so nothing to fall out over time and need replacing. The disadvantage is a limited colour choice. A dry ridge with standard ridges would match any roof tile as it is using standard tiles. Dry verges are always plastic so you have limited colour choice. I've just done a roof using dry ridge and hip with a grey marley tile together with dry verge with a grey plastic unit. The roof tiles were old redland double romans in cotswold, pressure washed to restore some of the shade. I picked the marley tiles primarily to match the shade of grey plastic on the verges as for those the choices were black, grey, white, brown, terracotta.

ANGLICANPAT

Whats been suggested so far by roofer is Marley double Roman greyish brown tiles and Cromar pro ridge system. Ive looked on the website and they look ok?

Furts

ANGLICANPAT wrote: »

Whats been suggested so far by roofer is Marley double Roman greyish brown tiles and Cromar pro ridge system. Ive looked on the website and they look ok?

I have given you my penny's worth on your proposal and it is your choice what you do.

The Cromar product does not appear to have any technical approval, such as BBA, and the fixings appear to be only galvanised - a bad idea on roofing. In addition the fixing detail to adjacent ridge tiles is poor.

I have doubts about the product but you sound determined to go ahead. I assume you have thoroughly checked out the situation and the reasons why your roofer is leaning towards this product.

It is not a combination that I would ever specify, or use, but I wish you well.

malc_b

The cromar looks very similar to manthorpe, except that manthrope (I'm pretty sure) uses stainless screws and top V piece. Cromar says coated screws which suggests plated (i.e. galv). Both cromar and manthrope brackets are galv but the bracket are under the sealing strip and ridge tiles so they will be in the dry.