Proper way to secure UPvc winodws in walls?

TheCyclingProgrammer

Hmm, whilst I agree that a FENSA cert is no guarantee of a good job, as a homeowner you do have a legal obligation to ensure any work to your house complies with building regulations.

The easiest and cheapest way to do that is to use a FENSA or CERTASS registered fitter who can self-certify that the windows meet building regs.

malc_b

These days it is normal to use spax screws or equivalent. For these you drill a hole through the frame and into the brick (outside leaf) and then just screw in. The screw cuts its own thread in the brick (like a metal self-tapper). Typically you would put screws at least 150mm from corners and then every 600mm or less).

The other point to note is to make sure any fensa guarantee is registered with fensa, or insurance backed. When my son bought a house the solicitor checked that there was a fensa certificate, but the installer had gone out business and the fensa guarantee had not be registered (householder had to do this in his case). End result no guarantee on the door.

TheCyclingProgrammer

malc_b wrote: »

The other point to note is to make sure any fensa guarantee is registered with fensa, or insurance backed. When my son bought a house the solicitor checked that there was a fensa certificate, but the installer had gone out business and the fensa guarantee had not be registered (householder had to do this in his case). End result no guarantee on the door.

Any guarantee is separate to building regs though. So long as you have received a FENSA (or CERTASS) certificate then that should mean the work had been done in compliance with building regs and is all you actually require when selling.

Chanes

For what it is worth, I have bought two houses both with no FENSA certificates. It is the least troubling thing about buying houses and wouldn't put me off at all. You can always call the council to certify them if you needed to.

Johnhowell

Further to fixing - ask about how they intend to seal the frames. Read the recent queries here on drafts from double glazing installations.


One old query here showed no sealant had been done around the frame at all!


I have been told that the gap under the sill should be a mortar rather than a flexible sealant that is used on the sides and across the top.


When our patio door was fitted there was a small "hole" in the outside sealant at the bottom corner which eventually caused a damp patch on the return plasterboard inside. So I got the sealant gun out and squirted "loads" into the hole. Solved.

We got a CERTASS certificate within a couple of weeks after fitting.

Good luck,
John

nickcc

Our rubbish builder decided to use expanding foam on our UPVC French doors, result was that the foam expanded under the frame and prevented the doors from opening. We then changed builder.

malc_b

Low modulus silicone should be used to seal the frame. Low modulus means it is softer and accomodates movement (e.g. expansion and contraction of uPVC with temperature, house settling). Expanding foam squeezes the frame so isn't recommend as well as being hard not soft. Patio door sills should be mortar because you stand on them. Window sills can be silicone.

Most windows and door these days are conceal drains which means condensation in the frame (or rain the gets in) drains onto the top of sill and runs off (if you look there is a small gap between window and sill). It's important that the ends of sill are siliconed to the frame to stop water running off the ends and into the inside plaster.