Fitting Skirting Board into Bay Window

njm_2

I can confirm that you should definitely cut the back of skirting board; however depending on the thickness of the board and the radius of bend required you may find that you can bend the board without making the numerous kerf cuts, or that they will only be required for certain sections of the length. I would recommend fixing using “no more nails” as well as screws, however you will get a better finish if you can “counter bore” and plug the screw holes.
If you are replacing the skirting board throughout the room and have to use kerf cuts, then choose a simple profile, ideally a ¼ round. Cut off the ¼ round section from the board and fit the board. You should be able to purchase ¼ round beading to match the original skirting board moulding and you should find that the beading will bend without breaking – then pin it (small nails) to the top of the skirting and it will hide the kerf cuts.

robowen

There is another method of doing this too !

It takes a little longer to achieve, but the end results with no cuts at all. You could do this in a garage or somewhere.

Soak the wood for a day or two, then lay the skirting board across two pillars. The height of the pillars are measured exactly the same as the radius of the arc you are trying to achieve.

Place a weight in the middle of the plank and let the plank curve with the pillars supporting the ends. Add more weight after a day or two. Then, wait till the middle of the plank hits the floor.

If not accurate with your measurements, its not a problem as you have created most of the curve anyway, just enough so that it doesnt split the wood.

I seen my grandad do this years ago. He was what you could call 'an old fashioned joiner'........no electric tools at all !! :rolleyes:

rob

njm_2

This will work – eventually – but you do need a very long container in which to soak the boards, otherwise you will have a lot of joints to contend with. The other problem is calculating the amount of bend required as the board will spring back slightly once the weights are removed, and this spring back depends upon the thickness, width and species of timber used.
The most essential tool for this job is a plentiful supply of “Painters mate”, a paintable caulking which will fill any gaps between the wall and the skirting. Over fill and then smooth off with a wet finger. Don’t worry if the bottom of the skirting looks uneven, as the carpet will cover this. If you have wooden floors then use a small beading to cover such gaps, but paint before fixing and then paint the nail holes – much easier than trying to paint once the beading is fitted.

PatR_3

Thanks everyone for your excellent ideas. Still trying to decide which method to try but I'll let you know how we get on.

Must say the flexi-ply or mdf sounds easiest so I'm going to check out that link

Thanks again
Pat