Plug in oven on extension lead?

Libko

Can anyone offer any advice please? Am about to replace our old Beko oven with an Indisit 51 KA1X (voltage: 220-240V ~ 50/60 Hz maximum power absorbed 2250W) The old oven is wired directly to the mains via a dedicated socket which can be switched off at fuse box - seems to be only thing on the circuit. The new Indisit comes with a plug to go straight into a normal socket, problem is our nearest socket is about 18 inches too far. Would I be able to safely run the oven by connecting to the socket with a short extension lead? Thanks for any replies.

cajef

Chop the plug off and wire the new oven into the dedicated socket.

Grenage

Yup, use existing connection.

brightontraveller

cajef wrote: »

Chop the plug off and wire the new oven into the dedicated socket.

That’s how the cowboys would do it ? Its Unsafe cable rating needs to be higher than fuse…. If its dedicated cooker switch/ outlet replace one that incorporates 13 amp socket e.g. http://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-45a-2-gang-dp-cooker-switch-13a-plug-socket-white/63376?kpid=63376&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CM79jJuB6c4CFRaNGwodrKcFBA

benten69

brightontraveller wrote: »

That’s how the cowboys would do it ? Its Unsafe cable rating needs to be higher than fuse…. If its dedicated cooker switch/ outlet replace one that incorporates 13 amp socket e.g. http://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-45a-2-gang-dp-cooker-switch-13a-plug-socket-white/63376?kpid=63376&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CM79jJuB6c4CFRaNGwodrKcFBA

So are you implying the cable that comes fitted to the cooker, from the factory is insufficiently rated.....;)

As long as the mains breaker the cooker is connected to is rated appropriately, it's fine. Also, the link you supplied is for a dedicated cooker isolator switch with additional 13A socket, which is not what is required by the OP.

They stated that the power consumption is 2250w, we all know P=IV

P=2250
V= 220
I=?

I=P/V
I=2250/220
I=10.23A

So the bog standard mains cabling that comes with the cooker is sufficient for 10A, but they need to ensure that the MCB on the circuit is correctly rated for the cable also. Without physically seeing the cable it is impossible to say, as we don't know the cross-sectional area.

However, it is reasonable to assume that it will AT LEAST be rated to 13A seeing as that is the next fuse size up from 10.23A, so the fuse out of the factory will be 13A.

Simply get a 13A MCB and fit that to the consumer unit in place of the current (likely 16A) one and you will have sufficient protection.

To be honest, the current breaker may well be sufficient, but without knowing what it's rating actually is or what the cable current carrying capacity is it's not possible to say 100% for sure.

13A MCB can be had for under £10.

Again, this is under the assumption that the ONLY item on that circuit is the cooker. If so, the 13A MCB will provide the same level of protection as a basic 13A fuse, so they can cut the end off the plug and wire directly into the existing circuit.

If the cable current carrying capacity is sufficient, they may not even need to change the MCB, and may be able to connect directly to the existing circuit and have the existing MCB provide protection. However we are working with limited information here.

brightontraveller

benten69 wrote: »

So are you implying the cable that comes fitted to the cooker, from the factory is insufficiently rated.....;)

No its not rated the same as existing dedicated cooker circuit cable thats not the same thing....

benten69 wrote: »

As long as the mains breaker the cooker is connected to is rated appropriately, it's fine. Also, the link you supplied is for a dedicated cooker isolator switch with additional 13A socket, which is not what is required by the OP.

Your opinion its wrong mine is allows using exiting circuit, cable, fuse in cu the difference is the cooker outlet has a “13 amp” rated plug point this is what they plug cooker into ( not hard wire it ) so you have existing circuit protected as it was, the appliance (cooker)cable, fused rated as manufacture instruction Ability to add different cooker in future date , cable from appliance to cooker is protected by the fuse in the plug i.e 13 amp all hunky dory
as other post suggest connecting 1.1.5.,2.5 appliance (cooker) cable to cooker dedicated circuit i'e 4,6,10mm is not a good move

benten69 wrote: »

They stated that the power consumption is 2250w, we all know P=IV

P=2250
V= 220
I=?

I=P/V
I=2250/220
I=10.23A

So the bog standard mains cabling that comes with the cooker is sufficient for 10A, but they need to ensure that the MCB on the circuit is correctly rated for the cable also. Without physically seeing the cable it is impossible to say, as we don't know the cross-sectional area.

However, it is reasonable to assume that it will AT LEAST be rated to 13A seeing as that is the next fuse size up from 10.23A, so the fuse out of the factory will be 13A.

Simply get a 13A MCB and fit that to the consumer unit in place of the current (likely 16A) one and you will have sufficient protection.

To be honest, the current breaker may well be sufficient, but without knowing what it's rating actually is or what the cable current carrying capacity is it's not possible to say 100% for sure.

13A MCB can be had for under £10.

Again, this is under the assumption that the ONLY item on that circuit is the cooker. If so, the 13A MCB will provide the same level of protection as a basic 13A fuse, so they can cut the end off the plug and wire directly into the existing circuit.

If the cable current carrying capacity is sufficient, they may not even need to change the MCB, and may be able to connect directly to the existing circuit and have the existing MCB provide protection. However we are working with limited information here.

Clue fuse is rated for circuit/appliance etc but below max cable capability reducing risk of cable melting fuse pops first ?

benten69

brightontraveller wrote: »

No its not rated the same as existing dedicated cooker circuit cable thats not the same thing....

Your opinion its wrong mine is allows using exiting circuit, cable, fuse in cu the difference is the cooker outlet has a “13 amp” rated plug point this is what they plug cooker into ( not hard wire it ) so you have existing circuit protected as it was, the appliance (cooker)cable, fused rated as manufacture instruction Ability to add different cooker in future date , cable from appliance to cooker is protected by the fuse in the plug i.e 13 amp all hunky dory
as other post suggest connecting 1.1.5.,2.5 appliance (cooker) cable to cooker dedicated circuit i'e 4,6,10mm is not a good move
Clue fuse is rated for circuit/appliance etc but below max cable capability reducing risk of cable melting fuse pops first ?

Makes no difference, show me where in the IET regs that it says you are not allowed to go from say 10mm2 to 6mm2? Providing the total load on the circuit will never exceed that of the 6mm2 cable, it is perfectly safe, adequate and legal

If you have a dedicated circuit for the cooker, and you hard wire it, then we know the cooker consumes 10.23A, so with a 13A breaker protecting the entire circuit (including the cabling) connecting the standard lead (which we agree is going to be rated for more than 13A) to the thicker T&E cable which is existing is all above board.

Mixing cables is not against any form of regs, you just need to ensure the circuit protection (in this case the MCB) is rated for the lowest rated cable (the one on the cooker), in this case 13A.

Go an check the IET regs for yourself, the term "adequate" is thrown about a lot, but no specific mention of not mixing cables, provided there is adequate protection.

Not saying your way is totally wrong, just that there is more than 1 way to skin a cat, and that the method of cutting off the plug & hard wiring with adequate protection is not a "cowboy" method as you put it.

If it's within the IET regs, it can't be "cowboy", as it's legal.

brightontraveller

benten69 wrote: »

Makes no difference, show me where in the IET regs that it says you are not allowed to go from say 10mm2 to 6mm2? Providing the total load on the circuit will never exceed that of the 6mm2 cable, it is perfectly safe, adequate and legal

If you have a dedicated circuit for the cooker, and you hard wire it, then we know the cooker consumes 10.23A, so with a 13A breaker protecting the entire circuit (including the cabling) connecting the standard lead (which we agree is going to be rated for more than 13A) to the thicker T&E cable which is existing is all above board.

Mixing cables is not against any form of regs, you just need to ensure the circuit protection (in this case the MCB) is rated for the lowest rated cable (the one on the cooker), in this case 13A.

Go an check the IET regs for yourself, the term "adequate" is thrown about a lot, but no specific mention of not mixing cables, provided there is adequate protection.

Not saying your way is totally wrong, just that there is more than 1 way to skin a cat, and that the method of cutting off the plug & hard wiring with adequate protection is not a "cowboy" method as you put it.

If it's within the IET regs, it can't be "cowboy", as it's legal.

Post doesn’t mention replacing fuse replacement just “Chop the plug off and wire the new oven into the dedicated socket.” Hence cowboy

I don't argue that de-rating as an optiion but Its also not just about mixing cables (loading) its safe termination (cable dressing if you like )

Terminals for sockets, switches etc are designed to take specific cable sizes e.g. 10mm cable from cu feeding the outlet incoming feed terminals are designed for 10mm then outgoing load terminals (even if type where they are one in the same)maybe 4mm 6 mm but cooker itself the cable could be 1, 1.5 or 2.5 mm ( its wired into a plug gives you a good indicator as to its size ) ditto for cable grip dito cable itself multi strand etc If you wish to argue terminating 1mm into a terminal designed for 10mm is good safe practice be my guest:rotfl: the method I suggest is not the only one but its safe, quick, cheap

cajef

brightontraveller wrote: »

Post doesn’t mention replacing fuse replacement just “Chop the plug off and wire the new oven into the dedicated socket.” Hence cowboy

Before you started throwing insults about, I gave an answer assuming that as there was already a cooker connected to the socket that it would have the correct value circuit breaker fitted and the OP would have checked that, however as you have deemed to dispute this and call me a cowboy without knowing anything about my electrical knowledge I will leave you to your ignorant rant.

brightontraveller

cajef wrote: »

Before you started throwing insults about, I gave an answer assuming that as there was already a cooker connected to the socket that it would have the correct value circuit breaker fitted and the OP would have checked that, however as you have deemed to dispute this and call me a cowboy without knowing anything about my electrical knowledge I will leave you to your ignorant rant.

Get off your horse..... Hard wired dedicated, plugable not the same ditto loading, ditto cable sizes, ditto termination cooker loading varies so don't assume .....

cajef

brightontraveller wrote: »

Get off your horse.

Don't insult people you know nothing about.