Can't drill above window frame - how to proceed?

edinburgher

The day I've been dreading has arrived and I am trying to fit blinds in DD's bedroom. I assumed something would go wrong (this house has been a lot of work), so thought that I was prepared re. tools. It's a 1970s house.

I am attempting to fit an Ikea blind that needs to be fitted at least 8cm above the window frame. I'm fitting outside the frame (to the wall) as they are blackout blinds and it's impossible to get a true blackout where the blind is inside the frame.

I am using a cheap Screwfix SDS drill with an 8mm masonry bit (using heavy duty rawl plugs to avoid children tearing them from the wall).

The drill goes through the plaster and (I'm assuming) brick like butter, but hits a dead stop about 1" depth into the wall. I Thought I saw a bit of discolouration (like a touch of rust on metal), but now I'm not sure, have blown out the dust and shone a torch in there, but it just looks plastery.

What are my options here? I could move the blind up, but I don't have a huge amount of room to play with (say 20cm total between window frame and ceiling, curtain pole to fit as well).

I have used the search feature, wanted to check whether there was any new advice to an old problem!

Edit: vaguely DIY-savvy relative suggested using stud detector to look for metal. There's definitely a strong signal from about 1/2" below the hole I tried to drill, but only an intermittent/sporadic beep directly above the hole itself. Maybe just move up the height of the fitting again? No trace of a signal there.

Hoploz

Yes we always have the same problem and had perennial curtain pole falls. It's the lintel.
One solution is to get a couple of good fixings, perhaps 6" or so outside the aperture and attach a batten right across and hang the blind from that.
Or mount the fixings higher up assuming the blind is long enough, they're normally quite long.

Any other suggestions, I'm all ears!

My husband has decided we don't need curtains at the remaining windows

payandisplay

If it's a steel catnic lintel drill the correct size hole with a steel drill and use self tapping screws.

googler

Put a metal drill bit on (smaller than you would use for a final hole) and make an exploratory drilling attempt.

If it's a metal lintel, you'll see the metal shavings coming out (use something to catch them for inspection), and can then proceed to select the right size of metal drill and self-tapping screws.

edinburgher

I was able to put the blind up eventually by moving up the wall, although I could only get in 3/4 screws. It's a lightweight blind, so fingers x'ed it stays up.

I was under the impression that the construction of a window surround would be symmetrical? This didn't seem to be the case here, one of the holes just couldn't be finished for love nor money (pushing with my full sweaty 15 stones for about 5 minutes) :rotfl:

I will try the one failed hole (well, 1/2, but the other one is covered by the fitting) with a steel drill bit tomorrow before I fill it. I only have a cordless or the SDS (can't find SDS bits for steel online - any thoughts, Screwfix convenient if possible)?

Will definitely need ear defenders, the SDS drill is a monster, even if my turbo walls are resisting...

flashg67

I use the batten method above using a combination of plasterboard plugs and 'no nails' to hold the batten, painted to match the wall, and have hung full length heavy curtains with no problems

edinburgher

We've just taken down a load of grotty old battens that were literally falling out of the wall, so keen to avoid that particular look. I'm sure it could be attractive if done well, guess I'm just used to seeing sloppy examples that have put me off!

firefox1956

edinburgher wrote: »

I was able to put the blind up eventually by moving up the wall, although I could only get in 3/4 screws. It's a lightweight blind, so fingers x'ed it stays up.

I was under the impression that the construction of a window surround would be symmetrical? This didn't seem to be the case here, one of the holes just couldn't be finished for love nor money (pushing with my full sweaty 15 stones for about 5 minutes) :rotfl:

I will try the one failed hole (well, 1/2, but the other one is covered by the fitting) with a steel drill bit tomorrow before I fill it. I only have a cordless or the SDS (can't find SDS bits for steel online - any thoughts, Screwfix convenient if possible)?

Will definitely need ear defenders, the SDS drill is a monster, even if my turbo walls are resisting...

You dont get SDS drill bits for metal.............
15 stones for 5 minutes !!!!!
You are either using the wrong drill bit for the job or it is blunt.
Get a new drill bit for metal in your cordless drill DO NOT use the hammer/impact facility & you should be able to drill the steel lintel easily.
HTH

Hoploz

Just a note of caution on No More Nails for a batten - we tried to reinforce the poor holes we had drilled by using it for a batten - result eventually was that next time the pole came down it brought the batten - AND a load of plaster which we had No More Nails'd onto!

Not relevant to the OP's blind, but just a BTW, I have found that a track on a batten is much less likely to come crashing down than a pole. It must be to do with the weight distribution and the inevitable up/down movement you get from a pole, whereas you only slide the hooks along a track so less movement.

edinburgher

I would have agreed that I was using the wrong drill bit, but it worked for 3/4 holes, so I thought I'd stick with it (and a lot of brick dust had come out, so seemed like it was some sort of masonry). Was a brand new drill bit with good feedback from Screwfix. Will pick up a metal bit tomorrow, can't hurt to try.

Pretty frustrating.

Hoploz

Just seen this on Dragons Den. Just the right product to help put up battens, shelves etc. Defo going to get one!
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Marxman-Standard-Hole-Marking-Tool/p/147784