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changing locks
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bouicca21
Posts: 6,696 Forumite


Not sure if this would be better on the diy board but since so many threads about renting mention changing locks, I thought I'd try here first.
When my flat has dried out, I will vacate it for up to a month while a team of builders reinstate. They will obviously need my keys. For peace of mind I will want to change the locks when they have finished.
I think I can change the front door - it's a standard yale - and leave the mortice as is. I also have two sets of patio doors and someone told me that it is more difficult to change the barrels on these. Is it? Will I need to get a locksmith?
When my flat has dried out, I will vacate it for up to a month while a team of builders reinstate. They will obviously need my keys. For peace of mind I will want to change the locks when they have finished.
I think I can change the front door - it's a standard yale - and leave the mortice as is. I also have two sets of patio doors and someone told me that it is more difficult to change the barrels on these. Is it? Will I need to get a locksmith?
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Comments
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UPVC patio doors are usually even easier. Eurocylinder, one screw to remove. Take it out and measure the length each side from the middle where the retaining screw goes in. Buy one that matches the lengths.
Buy a high-security Anti-bump/snap/drill (British Kitemark) cylinder if you are concerned about security.
Some of the older style aluminium frames are more difficult.0 -
patio doors are often eurocyinders and easy to change (really easy - just request a medium size phillips screwdriver) - you just need to make sure the new ones are the same length (so they are flush on the outside) and its worth considering anti-bump anti-pick and anti-snap replacements. There are several good brands, and if you buy them together you should be able to get them keyed-alike so you have one key for both doors.
post a close-up picture of the locks and handles from the outside and someone will no doubt confirm.0 -
Not much more difficult, though depends on the lock.
The principle is the same: Unscrew, remove, obtain replacement, insert, screw up.
There are online retailers who provide guides on their site on how to identify the correct replacement lock. You could spend a bit of time now identifying the right locks and ordering them so they are in hand when the builders finish
Things to consider when buying:
* minimum BS Standard to comply with insurer requirements
* anti snap lock?
* anti bump
* anti drill
http://www.onlinelockandsafecentre.co.uk/locks-and-security-knowledge-centre.html
http://www.onlinelockandsafecentre.co.uk/
http://www.lockandkey.co.uk/blog/2013-10-10/7/How-to-measure-your-cylinder-lock
https://www.lockandkey.co.uk/c/door-locks-and-security/cylinder-locks-yale-locks-euro-cylinders
http://www.windowrepairshop.co.uk/How-to-measure-and-fit-your-door-cylinder0 -
You are all brilliant - thanks.
Photos of the locks
http://s304.photobucket.com/user/Bouicca/library/Locks?sort=3&page=1
I can't spot any identifying name on the barrels. The irritating non matching handles are the ones with the brass looking barrels. On both sets of doors, the full length strip of the locking mechanism says Fuhr.
I'm in what by London standards is a low crime area, but security is still a concern. Both sets of doors are obvious weak points for burglars to exploit, but both are covered by the burglar alarm even on a partial set. I think the doors are Pvc.0 -
All easy to replace as described.
Also they all look somewhat susceptible to snap, bang or maul attacks (unless any of them are solid security handles), take the advise and buy some nice ABS Avocet or something similar to replace them with.0 -
If you already have spare keys, or the locks are reasonable quality, you can change them for the cheapest before builders arrive. Change back when they've gone.
Try Tool station online for cheapies, £10 order for free delivery.
If they are cheapies, take the opportunity to upgrade to excellent quality.0 -
You are all brilliant - thanks.
Photos of the locks
http://s304.photobucket.com/user/Bouicca/library/Locks?sort=3&page=1
If you look at the inside you will probobly see 2 screws at top & bottom of the plates. Unscrew them and draw out the cylinder. Then measure it as per the instructions in the link.
You can buy a replacement made by whichever manufacturer you want/trust/can afford as long as the dimensions match.0 -
Were all those photos taken from outside? They appear to be eurocylinders (see my links earlier).
If you look at the inside you will probobly see 2 screws at top & bottom of the plates. Unscrew them and draw out the cylinder. Then measure it as per the instructions in the link.
You can buy a replacement made by whichever manufacturer you want/trust/can afford as long as the dimensions match.
The screws inside top and bottom are to remove the handles which is not necessary to remove a euro cylinder.
There is a single retaining screw on the end of the door just under where the latch sticks out. Obviously the door must be open for access.0 -
Once the euro cylinder screw is fully removed, turn the key to face approximatly “10 past” on the clock (see picture) then pull the cylinder out slightly jiggling the key.
This will allow the euro cylinder to be removed. In some cases some slight turning of the key will help the barrel come out easier, also loosening the bolts on the handles can help the euro cylinder to be removed if it is tight.Pull out the cylinder fully and place on suitable surface to measure.
To measure a cylinder you have to measure the distance from the centre screw hole to the outside of the cylinder on one side and then do the same on the other.
So the barrel in the picture would measure as a 40/60. On the order screen you would order size = 40 , size B = 60.0 -
Apologies, and thanks anselld. You're right - been a while since I replaced mine and I just looked at my door before posting.....0
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