Loft hatch

d0nkeyk0ng

We have a loft hatch that you have to push in to the loft (it's hinged on one side). To get in means having to get ladders out each time. I'd like to be able to convert it into a dropdown hatch that has folded ladders built in.

There are already floorboards there so it'd be perfect for storage. Just no idea on how to go about it. I've seen abru kits from the likes of homebase and B&Q.

Any advice would be welcome.

Le_Kirk

I did mine some years ago. I had to cut a new access hatch on the landing so we could access from there rather than inside an internal bathroom. Use this link to have a look at a typical type (not recommending this particular one) and you can download fitting instructions as a place to start your investigations. If you are not DIY handy, maybe get in a "man" usually they advertise in shop windows or local "advertiser" fliers that are pushed through your letterbox.

Ectophile

In theory, it's simple. Turn the hinges around so the hatch drops down. Remove the woodwork that the hatch currently rests on when closed, and replace with new wood so that the hatch rests against it when pushed up. Add a catch to keep the hatch closed. Add rubber draught excluder strips as necessary. The catch on mine came with a loft ladder kit, but the ladder isn't actually connected to the hatch - it's screwed to the joists in the loft.

Measure everything, and don't assume that the hatch is square (or even rectangular). I had all sorts of problems when it turned out that the loft opening was crooked and my carefully constructed new hatch just didn't fit.

paddy's_mum

In exactly this situation I used a local carpenter of good reputation.

The wooden, fold up and retractable ladder cost me just on £100. His work and skills cost me about another £100 or so.

For that money, I got a sturdy ladder that whispers down any time I want it to, a neat finish and access to a loft that holds all my precious junk.

There are times when it is more cost effective to get in someone who does actually know what they are doing. His skilled work saved me a whole lot of sweat and cussing!

Furts

I have a fold down timber loft ladder and the following come to mind:

Do not underestimate their weight to get them fixed in place

Measure your opening - it will need to be enlarged as these ladders have an opening about twice the usual.

They also need plenty of space to get to them and swing down the ladder.

They only fit one way in relation to your ceiling timbers, that is parallel (but this may be opposite to what some folks think when planning one!)

Your roof will need timbers fixed in to give a plasterboard edge fixing and for the ladder.

You will need an architrave detail to the finished opening.

They serve a purpose and are cheap. I know of people who refuse to go up them because the handrail detail is flimsy and small - they all are from what I have seen.

cyclonebri1

Furts wrote: »

I have a fold down timber loft ladder and the following come to mind:

Do not underestimate their weight to get them fixed in place

Measure your opening - it will need to be enlarged as these ladders have an opening about twice the usual.

They also need plenty of space to get to them and swing down the ladder.

They only fit one way in relation to your ceiling timbers, that is parallel (but this may be opposite to what some folks think when planning one!)

Your roof will need timbers fixed in to give a plasterboard edge fixing and for the ladder.

You will need an architrave detail to the finished opening.

They serve a purpose and are cheap. I know of people who refuse to go up them because the handrail detail is flimsy and small - they all are from what I have seen.

Hi chap, I have to offer a different take on this;

In actual fact it is a relatively easy option to to go across the timbers.

To explain, almost all roof joists are at 16 inch centres, that give free space of around 14", ie, useless, you couldn't get a decent packing box through that space.

So, it's normal to cut out a joist AFTER installing a cross member that carries the cut joist.

More detail is needed so, support the joist to be cut at each side of the intended opening, a good strong batten screwed down over 3 consecutive joists does the trick. Do this each side of intended opening.

Cut the offending joist away allowing for the 50 mm wide timbers that now need to be installed to support the "hole, double these up if mid span.

You now have an opening that is both structurally sound and serves purpose.

But you are correct, the important bit is where will the access enter the roofspace, tucked under the eaves is useless, hence the need to go sideways, ;)

Jonesya

When I did mind I used the existing loft opening and timber surround but had to make a new hatch door, I made a basic frame that fitted inside the opening and clad it with timber cladding with a slight overlap to cover the gap between frame and surround.

Having a frame allowed me to fill it with insulation and the frame gave a more secure fixing point for the hinges, compared to fixing into the edge of a board.

As others have said, check the existing opening, they're rarely perfectly square.

For stopping draughts, you can get flexible brush pile strip, stapled to the sides it works well. This sort of thing http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ironmongery/d170/Draught+Excluders/sd2802/Stormguard+Brush+Pile/p34662

Other thing worth considering - you can buy ready made, insulated loft hatches that you just fit, if you don't want to make it yourself or get a carpenter in but happy to fit yourself.

Furts

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Hi chap, I have to offer a different take on this;

In actual fact it is a relatively easy option to to go across the timbers.

To explain, almost all roof joists are at 16 inch centres, that give free space of around 14", ie, useless, you couldn't get a decent packing box through that space.

So, it's normal to cut out a joist AFTER installing a cross member that carries the cut joist.

More detail is needed so, support the joist to be cut at each side of the intended opening, a good strong batten screwed down over 3 consecutive joists does the trick. Do this each side of intended opening.

Cut the offending joist away allowing for the 50 mm wide timbers that now need to be installed to support the "hole, double these up if mid span.

You now have an opening that is both structurally sound and serves purpose.

But you are correct, the important bit is where will the access enter the roofspace, tucked under the eaves is useless, hence the need to go sideways, ;)

Oh dear, I do not wish to disagree with Cyclonebri1, but offer the following to explain my post:

The majority of homes built from say the 1960s will have trussed rafter roofs. These are spindly and the default setting, or rule of thumb, is never cut out timbers on them. But they are at 600 centres (usually) and ready to receive the loft ladder - it slots into the gap.

On traditional roofs the timbers could be cut as you say, but this is moving beyond the capabilities of a novice. OP may be fully competent to do this, and size up the relevant timbers, but the ceiling ties should be beefed up in no different manner to cutting out a floor joist. This then raises the thorny topic of structural alterations, and should a structural engineer and Buildings Regulations be involved? Of course 99% of folks will be concerned by this, which is fine until a surveyor is looking at the home on behalf of a purchaser.

The next topic is the boarding out, and the extra load on the ceiling, plus insulation and membranes. Hopefully OP has all this weighed up, because house sales fall through on these topics too.

Slinky

We had a telesteps loft ladder fitted, it's brilliant. I'd never been in our loft before as I wasn't confident climbing off the stepladder. I'm now happy to go into the loft without assistance as these are really sturdy.