Zinsser BIN or 123 & fixing skirting to walls + filling the gaps?

JustAnotherSaver

Rather than make separate threads.

We had new skirting put in place when damp work was carried out. They sealed on the tops of the skirting & told us that we'll probably need to re-do the seal at some point. They weren't kidding.

In parts (not many to be fair, but it's still happened) the skirting has almost popped off the wall. It's quite wobbly at least.
Also there's a lot of gaps at the tops. There's some areas where there isn't any gaps but there's a lot that does have gaps. Some is actually quite large.



^^ That one is easily the worst area. I dug the sealant out & it was very hard stuff. Does all sealant go real hard & not so flexible or only the cheap stuff?



^^ An example of where there's gaps formed at the top of the skirting.


QUESTION:

1) Best way to stick that worst area back to the wall?
2) Suitable sealant to be using on the tops to fill the gaps (like i say, some gaps are quite large - i guess due to uneven walls?!).








Also regarding the Zinsser BIN or the Zinsser Bullseye 123. I'm wondering which is the best product in these cases since they're both stain blockers??

CASE1:

I'll be painting up the plain skirting boards above which i think are pine and are very knotted.

I've used Zinsser BIN in the past on old doorframes that i'd stripped back which had some yellow glue like substance on them that was a pain to remove.
I found the Zinsser BIN a bit of a pig to work with. Drag marks & such, but with sanding & more sanding it got the result i was looking for & 2 years on it's still looking great.

CASE2:

Interior doors which were varnished & coloured some sort of dark red/brown. The varnish has been removed as best i can but no doubt that in the more fiddly areas i wont have been able to totally remove it.

I want these doors painting white in the end.




Thanks.

Silver-Surfer_2

Caulk to fill the gaps, two coats of Zinsser Bin on the knots then primer undercoat then a top coat.

Mr.Generous

Silver-Surfer wrote: »

Caulk to fill the gaps, two coats of Zinsser Bin on the knots then primer undercoat then a top coat.

agree, but on the skirting coming away I'd remove it and re-attach using just about any of the "No Nails" type products. They are really strong as long as surface is clean and dry. Wedge it against the wall while it sets, we use a few 5ltr paint cans.

Current favorite caulk is this stuff, great adhesion and staying power, easily overpainted if required. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p43528?table=no

JustAnotherSaver

Regards the Zinsser side of things - my question was more angling towards why would you use one over the other when they both claim to be stain blockers?

When i did the door frames i'd read about the Zinsser BIN flashing through, so i didn't bother spot treating the knots for 1) that reason and for 2) in case there were any that i missed. So i just coated the whole thing in it & then went the process you mentioned.



Hmm i wonder why they came away then. There is obvious a damp problem, but the walls were tanked & i saw them go through the processes as they should.

I have some left over gripfill from a job - just as good as any other product then??

Oh & as far as the gaps at the top of the skirting goes - no problem for the smaller gaps, but what about the bigger gaps due to uneven walls or whatever? Do you just simply keep pumping until it fills up with caulk enough & then smooth it off?

TheCyclingProgrammer

I've not used 123 but my understanding is 123 is water based and BIN is shellac based. I don't know how quickly 123 dries but BIN sticks to anything, is touch dry in 20 minutes and ready to overcoat in an hour tops. It sands down nicely too.

27col

I don't think that fillers are intended to cope with skirting boards that are as badly fitted as those in the picture.

Dan-Dan

The amount of filler needed for the skirtings in the first picture is just a no no , you need to pull them off and start again