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Rising Damp , Dryzone Is it anygood?

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13

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  • Dom29
    Dom29 Posts: 93 Forumite
    Yep... It most certainly was..
  • mottyt
    mottyt Posts: 41 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    Have you checked whether that wall has been rendered right down to ground or is there a gap behind skirting board?

    We had similar problem and were told that whoever plastered prior to us moving in had plastered down to the concrete floor, which is a big no no as there will always likely be moisture in concrete floor and thus will just travel up the plaster.

    He advised to just hack an inch of plaster along base of wall, cover with skirting. Basically remove the connection between rendered wall and the floor and then wall will just dry out in month or so.

    Worth a look seeing if same has happened to yours
  • Dom29
    Dom29 Posts: 93 Forumite
    Ill have a look in the kitchen Motty, although woudl it cause the same issue on the other side ?

    Also guys ive bought the Dryzone its on its way so im going to inject as well as doing the work on the side just to be 100% sure. Got rained off this weekend so may have to be next weekend.

    My other question is once ive hacked off the plaster off either side how long should i leave the brick exposed to let it dry out before having it re-plastered ? Would you suggest using a dehumidifier/Some kind of heater?
  • mottyt
    mottyt Posts: 41 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    Id guess yes to being on otherside, ours is, but it could jist happen on one, just depends where the moisture originates.

    Definitey check it though as would be the significantly simpler solution.
  • Furts
    Furts Posts: 4,474 Forumite
    mottyt wrote: »
    Have you checked whether that wall has been rendered right down to ground or is there a gap behind skirting board?

    We had similar problem and were told that whoever plastered prior to us moving in had plastered down to the concrete floor, which is a big no no as there will always likely be moisture in concrete floor and thus will just travel up the plaster.

    He advised to just hack an inch of plaster along base of wall, cover with skirting. Basically remove the connection between rendered wall and the floor and then wall will just dry out in month or so.

    Worth a look seeing if same has happened to yours

    Plastering tight down to the floor is the correct way to plaster and is also good practice to meet current levels of air tightness. However you could stop slightly short and then seal the gap.

    If there is moisture in the slab and this is moving up the walls hacking away the plaster will not cure the underlying problem in your post.

    There will not be underlying moisture in a concrete floor unless it is faulty. Hence the advice you were given is questionable.
  • J_B
    J_B Posts: 6,802 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Furts wrote: »
    Plastering tight down to the floor is the correct way to plaster and is also good practice to meet current levels of air tightness. However you could stop slightly short and then seal the gap.

    Erm ..... don't you contradict yourself in those two sentences there?
  • Furts
    Furts Posts: 4,474 Forumite
    J_B wrote: »
    Erm ..... don't you contradict yourself in those two sentences there?

    I did not make myself clear. The plaster should be taken to the floor but being pragmatic there will be areas where the joint is not perfect - hence seal along with silicone or caulk. Regardless a seal should be here if one is trying to achieve air tightness.

    Conversely one could hack away a few mm height in order to get a good seal because the plaster, and bond, will not be brilliant tight against the floor. This procedure could be applicable in OP's case, but if you have damp in a floor rather than saying "prevent it tracking up the wall" one should be saying "cure the cause of the damp".
  • mottyt
    mottyt Posts: 41 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    Furts wrote: »
    I did not make myself clear. The plaster should be taken to the floor but being pragmatic there will be areas where the joint is not perfect - hence seal along with silicone or caulk. Regardless a seal should be here if one is trying to achieve air tightness.

    Conversely one could hack away a few mm height in order to get a good seal because the plaster, and bond, will not be brilliant tight against the floor. This procedure could be applicable in OP's case, but if you have damp in a floor rather than saying "prevent it tracking up the wall" one should be saying "cure the cause of the damp".

    Nonsense. Houses are built on the the earth which will always mean therell be moisture within, particularly concrete, flooring.

    Leaving a gap makes perfect sense.
  • mottyt
    mottyt Posts: 41 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    You're not trying to make your house waterproof youre just aiming to prevent the damp getting into the walls.

    Dont spend too much time/money doing thse elaborate fixes when a simple one would suffice. Once the moisture isn't being drawn into the walls theyll dry out in no time and you'll forget the problem was even there in first place.
  • phil24_7
    phil24_7 Posts: 1,535 Forumite
    Eighth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    mottyt wrote: »
    Nonsense. Houses are built on the the earth which will always mean therell be moisture within, particularly concrete, flooring.

    Leaving a gap makes perfect sense.

    That's why concrete floors have a DPM placed underneath them!

    Taking off plaster and/or render will not stop any moisture tracking up through bricks/blocks into the plaster/render.
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