Car rust spot repair cost?

bartelbe

It depends how good you want it to look. You have zero chance of blending the paint with a rattle can, non. Painting a car to a proffessional standard can't be done by an amateur.

An OK repair is easier, the quality of the finish is all down to the prep. Sand the affect area to get rid of the rust, sand more than the rust spot it may have spread.

Then a zinc paint to protect it. You then need to fill to level it off. Use standard filler as instruction, after it has hardened sand back with finner and finner paper. Run your finger across it, once you can't feel a lip, it is ready for paint.

Wipe any dust and contaminants off, and mask. However don't mask to the edge of repair, you will leave an obvious line. Prime the repair, then flat the primmer with fine wet and dry paper (800 grit).

You are now ready for paint, try to feather the paint in to avoid a visible line. You will probably need to sand this back to get a good finish with very fine paper.

If your car has matalic paint you can't sand it, you will just have to clear coat, and do your best to sand and polish the clear coat.

Allot of work, you won't get a seemless repair, but my method is cheap.

Strider590

motorguy wrote: »

You make a right balls of a 3 year old car?

But it's been quoted as needing a respray anyway............. So even if one does balls it up, nothing changes.

RichardD1970

Strider590 wrote: »

But it's been quoted as needing a respray anyway............. So even if one does balls it up, nothing changes.

But why take the risk when there are better DIY solutions (as posted) which are far less likely to be a complete balls up.

facade

In The Olden Days you could sand it down, treat the rust and fit a vinyl roof.

The modern equivalent would be having the roof "wrapped" ( with what looks like fablon if you remember when Woolworths used to sell it off the roll to cover your kitchen shelf) You could do the bonnet too.

Wouldn't look too bad with carbon weave if the car is white or red.

motorguy

Strider590 wrote: »

But it's been quoted as needing a respray anyway............. So even if one does balls it up, nothing changes.

Everything changes. Up to the point of taking to it with a wire brush you have other options. After you've done what you're proposing your only option is going to be to spray it.

As Richard D has already pointed out, just because he has been quoted for a respray doesnt mean its the most cost effective or palatable solution.

A 3mm rusting stone chip does not need a gung ho attack with a wire brush then hit with the spray from a rattle can - By this stage i will guarantee the fallout from those will be an easy 30-45cm - when a simple scraping off of the rust, treating the 3 mm spot with rust eater, then dabbing on a tiny amount of touch up paint will make it almost invisible OR a SMART repair if needs be.

But a wire brush and a rattle can?? :eek:

Strider590

motorguy wrote: »

Everything changes. Up to the point of taking to it with a wire brush you have other options. After you've done what you're proposing your only option is going to be to spray it.

As Richard D has already pointed out, just because he has been quoted for a respray doesnt mean its the most cost effective or palatable solution.

A 3mm rusting stone chip does not need a gung ho attack with a wire brush then hit with the spray from a rattle can - By this stage i will guarantee the fallout from those will be an easy 30-45cm - when a simple scraping off of the rust, treating the 3 mm spot with rust eater, then dabbing on a tiny amount of touch up paint will make it almost invisible OR a SMART repair if needs be.

But a wire brush and a rattle can?? :eek:

You say it's 3mm, but in all likelihood that 3mm is actually more like 10mm of affected metal work. If you don't get all of it, it'll just spread.

motorguy

Strider590 wrote: »

You say it's 3mm, but in all likelihood that 3mm is actually more like 10mm of affected metal work. If you don't get all of it, it'll just spread.

The o/p said " i now have a tiny (perhaps 3mm round) rust spot on the roof"

Scrape off the rust, treat it, touch it in OR a SMART repair.

Even IF its 10mm, then the above is going to look an awful lot tider than hitting it with a wire brush and a rattle can. Apart from anything the wire brush will mean some element of filler, then sanding, then primer, then spraying. And as you've no panel edge to blow to, you are going to see it a mile off - especially on a 3 year old shiny surface.

I have done quite a few cheapie repairs on cars i've owned over the years and never in a million years would i be taking to a roof panel with a wire brush and a rattle can - and i've had some wildly !!!!!! old cars - let alone on a 3 year old one.

I'm genuinely shocked that you even think its viable.

jase1

It's on the roof. Surely the aim here is to do as little work as possible to protect the area from further corrosion, while making sure that you need to be looking for it to see where the tiny imperfection is?

Agree with motorguy, get rid of the surface rust, cover it up with rust remedy and blob on a little paint from a touch-up pen/bottle. Job done.

Respray whole roof, on a bog-standard car? pfft.

bigjl

Strider590 wrote: »

You say it's 3mm, but in all likelihood that 3mm is actually more like 10mm of affected metal work. If you don't get all of it, it'll just spread.

The Op said it is a rust spot of 3mm.

Inwould suspect that is the amount of paint get was chipped off when the object fell on it.

As such there is surface rust to the area of removed paint, on a 2013 car.

You advice is more relevant to a rust problem on an old knacker surely?