Thermal imaging to detect heat loss in house

dominoman

phil24_7 wrote: »

How old is the house and how thick are the walls?

1910 and the walls are single brick thickness (9")

Smiley_Dan

MisterBaxter wrote: »

I certainly wouldn't spend money on a thermal camera survey if I already knew where the major heat leak points were and a simple elemental heat loss calculation will flag that; at the same time it can be used to calculate the improvements with the quickest payback levels. With that said if the OP can find someone with kit to do one then why not have one done.

I guess I was making the (incorrect) assumption the OP would be buying one, given it's about the same cost as getting a survey done. Then you can perform your own surveys as much as you like.

Smiley_Dan

wrightk wrote: »

If it were me i wouldnt bother with the smaller things like thicker curtains door seals etc.

I would be tackling one room at a time and either getting the whole exterior clad and insulated or cheaper if space permitted getting double glazing put in and cladding/insulating and dry lining all the internal walls facing outside

Its all very well sealing up a few gaps in doors but if your entire wall is single skin whats the point. You have a whole wall incapable of any heat retention

Some of what you say is right, but air tightness is a BIG thing. The trouble is it's completely ignored by the UK's approach to assessment. We have a very, very backwards attitude to air leakage - it's confused with ventilation too much and one is seen as the substitute for another. Depending on the amount of air leakage you could well be looking at a significant proportion of the total energy loss.

Ignore all this "30% through the roof, 25% through the walls" nonsense. It varies considerably dwelling to dwelling.

But you can only tell this by measuring (in this case an air tightness test). Which is back to my point that you should always measure and improve.

phil24_7

dominoman wrote: »

1910 and the walls are single brick thickness (9")

Is it of brick or stone construction?

Stopping as many draughts as possible will make the house feel much warmer, even if it isn't. Draughts bring with them cold air. I have a beautiful fire that heats the room wonderfully but we can still feel the cold if we don't put the draught excluder by the door.

Seal around the bottom of all skirting, between all the floorboards (this can be done at the same time as insulation under the floor but make sure you do your research about the right type) and around all external windows and doors. Fit draught excluders to all of your internal doors, insulate the loft and fit secondary glazing to your windows.

After that you start getting into the more expensive stuff like double glazing and solid wall insulation. Incidentally I have just had external insulation fitted and haven't noticed a vast difference yet as I don't heat all the time (thus missing out on the thermal mass effect of the solid walls) and I haven't sorted the draughts or insulation under the floorboards.

Regards
Phil