Installing wired network cable with walls being replastered?

Basically my living room is getting damp work done on it. It's taken back to brick & then it'll have that K11 tanking slurry brushed on it & then plastered on top. This applies to both hall & living room. Hall is where the router is.

What i want to do is have the living room wired for when we get a smart TV.

I guess the best option would be to wire a socket-to-socket, so there would be a wall socket roughly where the TV would be & then at the other end a wall socket in the hall & then small leads from either socket plugging in to the router & the TV.

I'm not sure whether you'd plaster the sockets in (so have a gap for the faceplate i guess) or whether you'd plaster the wall & then screw the socket on top of the plaster? I'd also be using cat6 cable.

Is this the best option?
I've used sockets before but they were incredibly bulky. What sort of socket/plate would you use?
I have plenty of cable - but it has cat6 connections at each end. Would you just cut these off & terminate them to a socket? (i have a push down tool from the last time i did something similar).

Any tips or anything i may overlook? Be aware of etc?


Or is wireless perfectly fine & you wouldn't bother with going wired?


*** Just to note, the entire floor including joists will also be being renewed.
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Comments

  • Mista_C
    Mista_C Posts: 2,202 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    If it was me, and with the opportunity to cable tidily, I'd opt for a sunken backbox like this...

    PL0986007-40.jpg

    ...screwed into the brick so once plastered the sockets will be flush with the wall.
    I would also bring the cables (main and spare) behind the skirting board, into the floor and run it across to where I wanted it before running it behind the skirting and back out with another one of those back boxes the other end.
  • fred246
    fred246 Posts: 3,620 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Have you considered a powerline network? This is what I did:
    Where your master socket in hall is install MK3 openreach faceplate
    Install quality cable from faceplate to router.
    From router ethernet cable to 500MBPS network adapter.
    Telephone sockets are all nicely filtered.
    Wherever you want ethernet just install 500MBPS adapter.
    500bps are a good price now but can go faster at greater cost.
    Pair the adapters for security. All devices in house that can be hard wired are. Works very well for me.
  • While you have the chance get a wired connection in. Terminate in a metal backplate so you can have a nice flush mounted outlet.

    Our router is upstairs and I installed a cable to the main TV downstairs where I have a 4 port switch serving the various boxes that sit there, I just use wireless for mobile devices.
  • I have plenty of cable - but it has cat6 connections at each end. Would you just cut these off & terminate them to a socket? (i have a push down tool from the last time i did something similar).

    Any tips or anything i may overlook? Be aware of etc?


    Or is wireless perfectly fine & you wouldn't bother with going wired?

    Always use proper network cable when you have the opportunity, not WiFi or mains wiring. For the stuff going in the wall, don't use normal multi-stranded patch cables with the connectors cut off, it's not intended to be punched down. Use single conductor from a reel.
    Proud member of the wokerati, though I don't eat tofu.Home is where my books are.Solar PV 5.2kWp system, SE facing, >1% shading, installed March 2019.Mortgage free July 2023
  • fred246
    fred246 Posts: 3,620 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    I used to have my router in the study with 3 pcs connected to the router. Now the router is in the garage and the 3 pcs are connected with a 3 port powerline adapter. There is certainly no noticeable difference between the 2 setups. Wireless works well but it's nice not to have to bother with wireless security codes.
  • Nilrem
    Nilrem Posts: 2,565 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    fred246 wrote: »
    I used to have my router in the study with 3 pcs connected to the router. Now the router is in the garage and the 3 pcs are connected with a 3 port powerline adapter. There is certainly no noticeable difference between the 2 setups. Wireless works well but it's nice not to have to bother with wireless security codes.

    I'm guessing either you've got a slow BB connection, or exceptionally good wiring.

    I can only get a half decent connection with homeplugs (I've tried 3 pairs from different manufacturers) if it's on the armoured cable to the garage (well to be precise the closest socket to the breaker box, and the socket in the garage).
    Even then it's half duplex and a tenth of the speed I get via the cat5 cabling.

    Proper network cable trumps any homeplug, let alone wireless so if you're getting plastering redone it's a great idea to run the cabling.
  • bsod
    bsod Posts: 1,225 Forumite
    edited 24 November 2015 at 9:37PM
    if a laptop placed near the tv can play iplayer without a problem, a tv will be able to do the same. Personally I think the ability to place the router and phone elsewhere is more useful, ie if you're using adsl, a phone extension next to tv means you can plug it into the router if need be
    Don't you dare criticise what you cannot understand
  • This is the sort of cable to use.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ethernet-RJ45-CCA-Cable-Reel-Network-LAN-Solid-UTP-CAT5e-Grey-100m-/200681420792

    The cat 6 cable you have is designed for patch leads.
  • bsod wrote: »
    if a laptop placed near the tv can play iplayer without a problem, a tv will be able to do the same. Personally I think the ability to place the router and phone elsewhere is more useful, ie phone extension next to tv means you can plug it into the router if need be

    It should do but I don't think I would trust it to stream UHD content that many TVs are now capable of.
  • No you want to avoid the cheap ebay CCA (Copper clad aluminium) cable as its cheap and not to spec and should not be sold as CAT anything. Use proper copper cabling to avoid any issues.
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