Shower water temperature lower and gets cold quickly

longwalks1

Le_Kirk wrote: »

If you've never used the switch in the airing cupboard we can eliminate that from our deliberations, which leaves the boiler. You say it fires up only when the central heating comes on so what is heating your hot water? On your controller, what options do you have? You should have H (or CH), W & Both, where H (CH) = (Central) Heating and W = Water. You say you have had the 3-way valve replaced so that indicates you have the ability to switch between heating and hot water. Check the times that you have set for the heating and water and it may be that you just haven't allowed enough time for the water to heat up before using it or leave it on long enough. Check out your timings and post them.

The controller is an ancient Potterton EP model (its a dark brown casing with beige slide controllers) thats held together with electrical tape, and when the plumber replaced the 3-way valve, I asked him how much to replace the controller with a new, modern one that would be easy to program, he said its probably just as economical to leave the old one there and leave the HW on constantly, as instead of coming on at 6am and heating an entire tank of cold water ready for the morning bath/shower, if its on constantly it just comes on and off throughout the day for shorter periods almost like trickle charging it, does that make sense?

longwalks1

Syman wrote: »

you might also want to see if your timer has been affected by the clocks going back, meaning the time the immersion has to heat up before your showers may have been reduced, giving you less stored hot water.

Thanks Syman, I think the time is on continually so clocks going back/forward an hour shouldnt affect it. I asked plumber about replacing it and he said it wasnt worth doing - Am now thinking he just didnt want the job (in an awkward place, bit of a mess in there etc)

Le_Kirk

I would recommend changing the controller NOW rather than wait until it fails. It's cheaper to change old/suspect items (held together with insulating tape!) BEFORE they fail. Just like you tested the immersion to make sure it was OK BEFORE you had to rely on it.

The Potterton EP has several versions, so would need to know your exact model number - probably EP2 which would mean 2 channel - before advising further. The newer versions are digital and most will fit onto an existing back plate with no change of wiring.

Not sure what you mean about time is on constantly, do you mean that Hot Water AND Heating are both on all the time? This does not make economic sense as you are heating the property and the water all through the night. Having your HW coming on in the morning just before you need it is what most people do and you wouldn't be heating a whole tank (cylinder) of cold water, just topping it up. If your programmer allows 2 programmes for HW, you could have a top-up in the late afternoon.

Threewheeler

? is it an EP1 or EP2 timer, most can be replaced using the same back plate or fixings.

Threewheeler

See here for info


http://www.electriciansblog.co.uk/2014/03/potterton-ep2002-ep2-central-heating-control-programmer/

longwalks1

Hi Le_Kirk

Its a Potterton EP2000, and looks to be as old as my mum. I was going to post a pic of it but dont know how to? There is a sliding 'switch' with the following options on it:
Auto
Clock
On 1
Off 1
On 2
Off 2

Its currently switched to 'Off 2', if that matters, or would that be for the setting of the clock?

longwalks1

Threewheeler wrote: »

? is it an EP1 or EP2 timer, most can be replaced using the same back plate or fixings.

Hi Threewheeler its a Potterton EP2000 controller

Le_Kirk

It looks like you can only programme the boiler to come on for two time periods per day and it has to be HW & CH together. Follow this link for instructions: -
http://www.justanswer.com/uk-plumbing/7e7c3-working-setting-instructions-potterton-wall-timer.html