Can anyone help with Horstmann HRFS1 receiver wiring please?

dw300

Hi folks,


Im trying to replace and old Horstmann Coronet 425 timer with the above RF receiver.

Ive attached some photos showing existing wiring and the reverse of the old front plate. (edit: You'll need to remove the space and paste and search, it won't let me post them.) Top right is where the 2+1 core (N, L & E) comes in to the first switch and then to the old base plate.

Then there's the base plate wiring which I sort of get apart from the lives over on the right.

From there the wires heading south-west go to the boiler, and to a second switch, which splits and heads to 2 sockets and the boilers CH pump (black flex).

I'd appreciate it if someone could suggest what needs to stay or go and if the existing 2+1 is sufficient coming into this area or if I need 3+1.

Im afraid I don't have a graphic for the receiver wiring points, but I assume anyone answering will probably be familiar with the like.

Thanks, in advance for any help, and just ask if you need more info to be able to answer.


htt p://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/5tnZlm.jpg

htt p://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/nM7lbQ.jpg

Le_Kirk

Images as below: -
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/nM7lbQ.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/5tnZlm.jpg
Manual for HRFS1
http://www.horstmann.co.uk/files/1314/0014/7617/RF_Programmable_Room_Thermostat.pdf

You are replacing a time switch with a programmer and thermostat. Do you have a room thermostat already? If so, this will need to be taken into account when wiring in the new unit. Does your existing Coronet control just heating or heating and hot water?

dw300

Le_Kirk wrote: »

You are replacing a time switch with a programmer and thermostat. Do you have a room thermostat already?

Yes, replacing the time switch with programmer/stat.

Le_Kirk wrote: »

If so, this will need to be taken into account when wiring in the new unit. Does your existing Coronet control just heating or heating and hot water?

It does both, but not with separate controls. Whatever way the plumbing is done I only get hot water when the CH is being used. This is fine though and if the stat is on at least an hour a day i'll have sufficient water. So the status quo is fine regarding that situation.

Thanks Le_Kirk.

dw300

I'll tell you how I understand it working, maybe it would help to know how clueless I am..

At first I thought that basically all 3 'switches' can be replaced by the receiver.. but I think something will need to split the supply between the receiver and the double socket (out of shot), so maybe use the first switch to do that?

The receiver has it own on/off by the way.

The baseplate and will be replaced by the receiver and will take N-E-L from the first switch, and when activated by the stat will send supply to the pump and boiler. So that bottom right switch can be removed?

That just leaves the question of whether to use 230v or volt-free, and which wires go where on the receiver.

Is any of that remotely right?

Le_Kirk

I think it would be difficult (and maybe dangerous) to give any more advice without actually seeing your system and checking where everything is connected. If you look at the link I gave above to the new controller and then look at the following link: -
http://www.horstmann.co.uk/files/8613/9867/2099/installer_guide_-_425_coronet_InstallationGuideWEB-P27673181.pdf
you can pick the situation you have now from the diagrams on page 4 and wire up your new controller to suit your existing situation. Maybe time to call in a pro.

dw300

Le_Kirk wrote: »

I think it would be difficult (and maybe dangerous) to give any more advice without actually seeing your system and checking where everything is connected. If you look at the link I gave above to the new controller and then look at the following link: -
http://www.horstmann.co.uk/files/8613/9867/2099/installer_guide_-_425_coronet_InstallationGuideWEB-P27673181.pdf
you can pick the situation you have now from the diagrams on page 4 and wire up your new controller to suit your existing situation. Maybe time to call in a pro.

Ok, I looked at those diagrams and my photos a bit more and I still feel like this is more or less a matter of replacing a switch with a switch. It's just a matter of working out what old connections relate to what new ones.

Seems like both have NEL SL(ON) and SL(OFF) and a link for mains use. In which case this is quite easy?

If we ignore the sockets for now, does this layout work?

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1280x1024q90/908/AIkEiG.jpg

And is it normal for the SL(OFF) to have no connection?

Le_Kirk

SL(OFF) is heat off, so no connection required.

dw300

I tried wiring as above, but it didn't work. The status and power lights on the receiver didn't even light up. Well I say that, but the right hand on had the faintest glow which was only viewable in the dark.


I unwired it and wired the boiler straight to the switch and the boiler didn't start, so I don't know if I have an issue with the switch or maybe a blown fuse in the switch.

Tried looking for contact details for Horstmann, but there is no contact number or email on their website.

Rubidium

dw300 wrote: »

I tried wiring as above, but it didn't work. The status and power lights on the receiver didn't even light up. Well I say that, but the right hand on had the faintest glow which was only viewable in the dark.

Doesn't that tell you something! Why didn't you check your wiring? e.g. supply across the receiver.

I unwired it and wired the boiler straight to the switch and the boiler didn't start, so I don't know if I have an issue with the switch or maybe a blown fuse in the switch.

Why did you disconnect the receiver when it wasn't even getting power! The fact that the boiler did not work when connected directly to the switch is telling you all that you need to know!

Tried looking for contact details for Horstmann, but there is no contact number or email on their website.

How can Horstmann help you? If you can't conect a few wires as per their instructions correctly and check your wiring/switch/fuse with a test meter, what do you expect them to do for you!

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