Mazda 6 diesel 2007 (1st gen) losing oil

motorguy

adriandilly wrote: »

Yes, and if the level is actually falling it should be even more concerning than usual, would you agree?

Unless all your regens are successful?

I would say keep the oil topped up and do regular oil changes - every 6000 miles or so. I'd add a Slick 50 at the next change too which will help protect the engine.

You could spend a fortune trying to rectify it, so in this case better to treat the symptoms rather than find the cause.

adriandilly

bigjl wrote: »

Does a 2007 Mazda have a DPF?

It might be the last of those without.

Getting back to the OPs oil consumption on many cars the full level to low marking is around a litre or so.

Which for an old diesel isn't the worst.

I had a 2008 V50 2.0D and that would use some oil, especially on a long high speed run.

Not sure what engine is in the OPs Mazda but it is possible it has the same one as Mazda and Ford shared platforms and other stuff around that time.

It is a 2.0l TS TD 143ps.
Yes there is a DPF. There is a dash light for it and the oil level until the start of this year used to rise, so I'm pretty sure. A litre doesn't sound much but it is Dexelia and it is worth £10 to £15 depending on how much I buy at a time. Getting fed up with buying it recently. The first year I had the car, it wasn't losing any. This year it hasn't risen and actually keeps dropping.

Is it time to switch to a thicker oil (but dexelia 5w30 should be used because of DPF)?

arcon5

It dumps fuel in the sump from failed regens?? Okay never heard this, so a little intrigued... is there an return pipe from the exhaust system back to the engine then?
This sounds very strange!

RickRastardly

Dumping diesel into the sump would not be recommend, so I highly doubt that Mazda have engineered such a process.
this means that as you lose oil naturally through oil lost in combustion you would eventually just be left with Diesel in the sump.
How many miles has your Mazda done in total?
Engines (and Diesels particularly) as they wear slowly use more and more oil as the piston linings wear out. 2007 is quite old now so its entirely feasible that its been to the moon, in which case I wouldn't be surprised if its using oil.
With that said, have you checked the coolant? is there any sludge build up in the top? If yes then its a sign that oil is escaping into your coolant system via the cylinder head, although this would probably be causing your other problems such as overheating, so unlikely, but worth the 2 seconds it takes to check.

adriandilly

RickRastardly wrote: »

Dumping diesel into the sump would not be recommend, so I highly doubt that Mazda have engineered such a process.
this means that as you lose oil naturally through oil lost in combustion you would eventually just be left with Diesel in the sump.
How many miles has your Mazda done in total?
Engines (and Diesels particularly) as they wear slowly use more and more oil as the piston linings wear out. 2007 is quite old now so its entirely feasible that its been to the moon, in which case I wouldn't be surprised if its using oil.
With that said, have you checked the coolant? is there any sludge build up in the top? If yes then its a sign that oil is escaping into your coolant system via the cylinder head, although this would probably be causing your other problems such as overheating, so unlikely, but worth the 2 seconds it takes to check.

Yes it seems odd but that's what happens. The manual says to make sure you get the oil changed when the X mark (twice as high as the Full mark) is reached. That way the oil will not get too diluted. It never reached it since I've had it but it used to rise and I'd do the oil changes pre-emptively. But now it's at the low mark after being changed in July.

The car has done 79,000 miles.

There is no sludge in the coolant or under the oil cap.
And no other problems.
All it is, is that it was holding on to its oil last year but isn't this year.
Are there any tests worth doing? It has been suggested that I get to 70 and then coast for a few seconds, then floor it and look for smoke.
Haven't had a chance to do this properly and away from traffic yet though.

Could overfilling cause the problem? (theoretically of course )

atrixblue.-MFR-.

When the late sept 2006 -2010 mazda diesel came out reviews were pretty good for it, then 6 months on stories of engines dying due to high oil levels and the smell of diesel in the oil WITH CARBON SOOT clumps BLOCKING THE OIL STRAINER (that flowed back with the unspent diesel) and the reviews started to lower and lower due to this fact, plus some were experiencing "soft paint" issues (paint would chip extremely easy and rust would form quite quickly in the rear arches and bootlid due to Mazda's revolutionary 3 stage paint system).


Mazda techs then started to advise people NOT to end a DPF cycle when the light came on and take it for a long run until the light went out to prevent long term damage to engine and DPF because there is a DPF diesel return pipe to sump.


IIRC seeing a bulletin on autodata that when doing a "forced regen" you were supposed to replace OIL pick up strainer filter along with oil filter (paper element type) (and a recommendation to use the MAZDA branded diesel oil in the 2.2 Diesel If memory serves) air filter and clean out EGR OR REPLACE IT, inspect that diesel return pipe for carbon sludging and refit or replace if blocked, Also was a note to tell mechanics that using an engine oil flush product wasn't recommended by mazda either as it took away build up from around seals and caused the crank seals to leak out or the cam seals one of them been a while since I have worked in motorfactors and garage.

bigjl

adriandilly wrote: »

It is a 2.0l TS TD 143ps.
Yes there is a DPF. There is a dash light for it and the oil level until the start of this year used to rise, so I'm pretty sure. A litre doesn't sound much but it is Dexelia and it is worth £10 to £15 depending on how much I buy at a time. Getting fed up with buying it recently. The first year I had the car, it wasn't losing any. This year it hasn't risen and actually keeps dropping.

Is it time to switch to a thicker oil (but dexelia 5w30 should be used because of DPF)?

I would probably use a different oil for a start.

You could try a "High Mileage" oil if you can.

I does indeed sound as though your Mazda could be fitted with the Ford/PSA/Volvo engine.

2007 was the changeover year I think.

A quick check on Shell Lubematch shows you should be using a 5w30 C1 oil if it is a 2007 onwards vehicle.

Not sure if you can get a C1 High Mileage oil though.

Mobil Super X1 FE is a cheap A5/B5 oil that actually has Saps low enough to be considered a Low Saps oil so will not harm your DPF but will prove cheaper. It meets the Ford spec for that engine from memory, but double check before using.

If it was my car I would use 5w30 C3 as it as low saps and has slightly higher HTHS.

My basic understanding of oils leads me to reckon a C3 will be very slightly thicker.

I may be wrong on that front!

Also try and quantify your oil usage. Use a measuring jug to record how much you are adding each time over a set time or distance.

Another possibility is a newish to the UK process where they clean your engine by EDT Automotive.

It was featured in a recent issue of CarMechanics.

You oil usage could be caused by gummed up oil control rings for example.

As I have already said though my V50 used a bit of oil in day to day running, not much, but needed a top up after a long high speed blast to Scotland and back.

Mileage was high on that vehicle, no leaks and didn't smoke much either, that was a 2008 and was also one of the latest models without a DPF, aVolvo dealer though it had one because his computer said so, but being an entry level S model and being a 2007 model saved it from that fate, should never have sold it to be honest.