proctecting oak doors

TheCyclingProgrammer

Go with whatever the manufacturer recommends. We bought our veneer oak doors from ukoakdoors and they specifically recommended a hard wax oil - either Osmo or Treatex. I went with the latter. Looks great. I put two coats on before hanging and then retreated the edges that had been trimmed/planed after hanging.

Some manufacturers may recommend against using oils, or water based products. I really depends, I think, on the veneers and the glue used.

We had an issue with our doors as the lippings at the top and bottom were about half the thickness advertised and when the carpenter trimmed two of them the inner core was exposed at the bottom. Not a problem for our living room door as you can't see it but one of the doors was for our shower room so I was concerned about steam penetrating the chipboard/particleboard core and ruining the door. The manufacturer did offer to replace straight away but this would have meant paying to get the carpenter back to re-hang it so they said I was welcome to try and treat the door and they will still replace if I have any problems.

After talking with the manufacturer, we decided to fill some of the worst holes in the exposed core with two part wood filler and then I gave the whole bottom 3 coats of ultra tough exterior varnish. I also put a third coat of the hard wax oil on the inside. Fingers crossed!

We have a mixture of oak furniture in our house of varying degrees of quality/finish - a Vietnamese import oak sideboard and console table which has a lightly lacquered finish; the hard wax oil on the doors and our european oak dining table has an oiled finish (I forget what the oil was called). I definitely prefer the look of an oiled finish but I'm guessing the lacquered finish is more durable. We'll probably need to lightly oil the table once a year or so.

anotherbaldrick

It is recommended by the manufacturers to treat veneer wood doors with a cellulose lacquer, this is obtainable from timber merchants and good hardware stores. Any oil treatment may soften the glue holding the veneer.

TheCyclingProgrammer

anotherbaldrick wrote: »

It is recommended by the manufacturers to treat veneer wood doors with a cellulose lacquer, this is obtainable from timber merchants and good hardware stores. Any oil treatment may soften the glue holding the veneer.

How do you know what the manufacturers recommend? I don't think they've been mentioned. As I said above the manufacturers of my veneer doors recommend hard wax oil. I used this:

http://www.internaldoors.co.uk/treatex-hardwax-oil-clear-matt

Davesnave

TheCyclingProgrammer wrote: »

How do you know what the manufacturers recommend?

Howdens doors come with a leaflet. It states what shouldn't be used, but interestingly, omits what is acceptable!

TheCyclingProgrammer

Davesnave wrote: »

Howdens doors come with a leaflet. It states what shouldn't be used, but interestingly, omits what is acceptable!

Yes, sorry, I meant the poster above. I'm sure there is some variation in what manufacturers recommend and its probably down to the construction and materials (notably the veneer glue) - as I said mine recommended hard wax oil and not to use anything water based and as you stated Howdens suggest you do not use oil - all the more reason why OP should check what their manufacturer recommends.

If they can use it though, I am very happy with the hard wax oil finish.

tony6403

moneylover wrote: »

Tony, could you say why? Thank you

Because I have used it many times without any problems. It is dead easy to apply and can be built up to provide any required sheen.
An oak veneered cupboard that I made is in the room in which I am presently sitting and was oiled 15 years ago ; the surface has darkened slightly but is unblemished.
This is an extract from a Rustin's advert.
The oil primes, seals and finishes all woods, including interior oak, teak mahogany, pine and all veneered surfaces. It does not leave a surface film to chip or scratch.