new keys cut wont start engine

Hk12

arcon5 wrote: »

If the car turned over on the old key but wouldn't start then I suspect you have other issues and it's plausible you'veflattened the battery.
You want 12.6v min really. But there abouts would usually crank, just slowly

car turned over fine with the old key and started fine as well. but it sounds as though having all lights coming on on the dashboard and headlights working doesn't always mean the battery is OK? is that right?

Geodark

Hk12 wrote: »

car turned over fine with the old key and started fine as well. but it sounds as though having all lights coming on on the dashboard and headlights working doesn't always mean the battery is OK? is that right?

turn on the headlights as you turn the key - if they go out when you try and start the car then it's your battery - if not, then it's something else.

Might have missed it, but what car is it? I have a VX and with that I get a flashing spanner on the dash if there is a problem with the RFID chip.

heretohelp

I had a 03 focus that I got a spare key cut for the company cut the key then could not code it. Apparently the old fords had a pale blue dot on the keys and the newer fords have a darker blue on them. This tells you what type of chip the key has, is it possible the key people have used the wrong key type?

Nodding_Donkey

Did they plug anything into the car to program the immobiliser to accept a new key?

arcon5

Hk12 wrote: »

but it sounds as though having all lights coming on on the dashboard and headlights working doesn't always mean the battery is OK? is that right?

Correct.
I work in a garage and there quite simply isn't a sure fire way or trick of assessing the battery condition of charge with lights of any sort.

You need a multimeter for it! Even a £2 one from china will do the trick.

The amount of power a start motor uses is immense, lights aren't comparable. Granted they can drain a battery quickly, but they will turn on even when the battery is deemed flat at 11.9v.

Rolandtheroadie

My experience was with a kia, but with an unprogrammed key, it still turned over the engine. It would even fire into life occasionally, but cut out immediately.
As the keyfob opens and locks the car, it's definately been programmed to some extent (our fob wouldn't do that until reprogrammed).
The same car had another issue at one point, strong ignition lights (they went out at the actual "start" turn of the key, that might have been a Kia thing though) and wouldnt start with a jump start either.
First solution was wiggling the negative terminal at the battery and also where it connected to the body. When it reared it's head again a week later, I tried tightening the body connection. It's been fine since.

Rover_Driver

arcon5 wrote: »

Correct.
The amount of power a start motor uses is immense, lights aren't comparable.

The headlights can indicate if the battery is low, if they are switched on when operating the starter motor, they will go dim.

colino

I'm pretty sure that you need the keys recoded, the car is immobilised, not faulty.

arcon5

Rover_Driver wrote: »

The headlights can indicate if the battery is low, if they are switched on when operating the starter motor, they will go dim.

Lights can also dim when starting a car with a good battery.
As I said before there is no trick to test a battery using lights on the whole!

bazster

Can I just point out that he tried to jump-start it without success? Unless he did it wrong somehow it's not a battery problem.