Having a stud wall built...rough cost?

Dan-Dan

Hi

Were in the home counties , and are hoping to have a stud wall built , to separate a living room and dining area , it wont have any power requirements , and it wont need a door , we would like an archway entrance to one side , if that makes sense , similar to this



The width would be about 3 meters , standard ceiling height , and would sit on the threshold between living room carpet and kitchen/diner laminate , so i`m guessing some work required there as well to site the bottom of the wall on the `real`floor and then butt up both surface to each side?

I would then have it plastered at a later date when more cash becomes available possibly

Its either that , or something like this (though not as fancy or expensive)




Any thoughts on a cost to have the stud wall done?

booty40uk

3x2 studs x 10 approx £40.
2.4 x 1.2 x 12.5mm boards x 5 approx £40
fixings, drywall screws etc approx £10
2 men 1 day. Varies but allow £200
Approx £300 all in


Picture 2 will be spendy!

Dan-Dan

thanks , what about the bit that attaches to the ceiling?

wallbash

Building a stud wall is one of the GREAT diy projects. Its big timbers, big sheets of plaster board , big nails.And does not require a great deal of skill.

In my list of fun projects , stud walls are very close to the top.

Dan-Dan

I had read that it was a job worth having a go at DIY , might well have a (wall) bash

wallbash

Too many diy projects are small, you need a good finish and some skill.

But ....a stud wall is fun. A LOT easier with a chop saw, lots of solid timber that needs cutting slightly over sized and then 'bashed' into place with a hammer/ club hammer for a really tight fit, before nailing.
Then clad in plaster board, hides any mistakes. I take a photo before cladding to remind myself where all the noggins are.

I built the last one with CLS ??? I believe that was Canadian Lumber Stock ( wickes) nice straight timber , easy to handle.

Dan-Dan

how do i approach the threshold problem though ?
The wall would not `sit` on top of the laminate and curtain bar ?

Davesnave

wallbash wrote: »

Then clad in plaster board, hides any mistakes. I take a photo before cladding to remind myself where all the noggins are.

I built the last one with CLS ??? I believe that was Canadian Lumber Stock ( wickes) nice straight timber , easy to handle.

I take photos and measure, then edit the positions onto the photo, as they aren't always exact 600mm centres. Mine are all treated wood.

I'd also include a couple of 2.5mm cables and note where they terminate too. You might not want power now, but once the wall is in, you may use the room differently.

A bit of sound insulation helps it to sound more solid than it is!

Alias_Omega

Sadly for a good job, some things need to happen.


Flooring Up.
Skirting boards off.
Frame/s built and put into position.
Wood sits on damp proof membrane
Wood secures to walls
Wood secures to floor
Wood secures to ceiling
Wood is now secure
Battons inserted
Electrician calls - drills hole in ceiling, runs cables for sockets/lighting, first fix etc.
Insulation is inserted into walls
Plaster board cut/fixed with screws
Plastered
Skirting
Electrician 2nd fix
Painting
Flooring relayed


Edit... dividing a room may need an extra rad..

wallbash

A bit of sound insulation helps it to sound more solid than it is!

Always a good idea.


Quote

Flooring Up.
Skirting boards off.
Frame/s built and put into position.
Wood sits on damp proof membrane
Wood secures to walls
Wood secures to floor
Wood secures to ceiling
Wood is now secure
Battons inserted
Electrician calls - drills hole in ceiling, runs cables for sockets/lighting, first fix etc.
Insulation is inserted into walls
Plaster board cut/fixed with screws
Plastered
Skirting
Electrician 2nd fix
Painting
Flooring relayed


All achievable by a willing DIY 'er.


ps

quote ..Wood secures to ceiling

I do that first.

Dan-Dan

Just getting round to trying to plan this , wondered if i could get some advice

One day , a few years in the future we will possibly replace the laminate , but its its only a year or so old now , so i could site the wall ON TOP of the laminate at the threshold and cut it up to the stud wall in the future , or shall i cut it NOW before i site the wall

The problem i can see with the second option , is that i could possibly disturb/damage the flooring as a whole once i start that process if you see what i mean



Any tips?

Thanks