cutting channel in MDF

I installed a TV in our master bedroom, being a new house it only has those metal strips instead of proper joists, so I fixed 10mm MDF to the wall using spring clips (this took bl**dly forever!).

Problem is that I stupidly miss-judged the clearance the cables needed, whilst it plugs in and works, it is squashing the 90 degree HDMI lead, and it failed over the weekend.

Two options seem apparent I can't remove the MDF without ruining it, so I could either cut a segment out of the MDF leaving a channel (but how this will affect the strength I don't know), or somehow go through the MDF and plasterboard, run the cables through the cavity. I imaging fishing them will be a nightmare.

Any suggestions?

Comments

  • phoenix_w
    phoenix_w Posts: 418 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary Combo Breaker
    I'd be tempted to router out a channel (this will be not fun but doable if you can't remove it from the wall temporarily) and then bond together any areas between the channel together with mending plates. Of course it's hard to visualise your project, I'm assuming you just need a small amount of relief for the HDMI plug and cable (almost like a teaspoon shaped groove in your MDF)
  • ben_m_g
    ben_m_g Posts: 410 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    phoenix_w wrote: »
    I'd be tempted to router out a channel (this will be not fun but doable if you can't remove it from the wall temporarily) and then bond together any areas between the channel together with mending plates. Of course it's hard to visualise your project, I'm assuming you just need a small amount of relief for the HDMI plug and cable (almost like a teaspoon shaped groove in your MDF)

    A relief would do it, rather embarrassingly I have to admit I've never used a router before.
    Would this plunge cut into the board, or would I need to start it off with a hole?
  • phoenix_w
    phoenix_w Posts: 418 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary Combo Breaker
    It plunge cuts. If you don't mind it looking ugly you can achieve the same thing with some wood drill bits - cut out a channel using hole bits and refine with a wood chisel, although you may knock some holes in the plaster behind when doing it.
  • skivenov
    skivenov Posts: 2,204 Forumite
    edited 22 June 2015 at 11:41AM
    router, electric plane set narrow, or a rebate plane. I'd rather plane it by hand if it's fastened to the wall, much safer than using a router to do it.
    Yes it's overwhelming, but what else can we do?
    Get jobs in offices and wake up for the morning commute?
  • DavidFx
    DavidFx Posts: 248 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Ideally you should have located the metal studs and fixed to these rather than using cavity fixings. As it is a steel framed wall there should be no vertical obstructions in the cavity as there are no noggins fitted - so run the cables in the cavity.
    To route the cables in the cavity here is a technique I use:
    Find some strapping tape - the solid plastic strip used to secure heavy packages. Fold the tape in half, feed the fold , edge upwards, into the lower access hole in the cavity - keep feeding - the tape will form a loop inside the cavity. Add a weight to a piece of string and feed into the upper access hole and allow to drop - the string will fall through the loop in the tape - pull out the tape and the string will come with it.
  • ben_m_g
    ben_m_g Posts: 410 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    DavidFx wrote: »
    Ideally you should have located the metal studs and fixed to these rather than using cavity fixings. As it is a steel framed wall there should be no vertical obstructions in the cavity as there are no noggins fitted - so run the cables in the cavity.
    To route the cables in the cavity here is a technique I use:
    Find some strapping tape - the solid plastic strip used to secure heavy packages. Fold the tape in half, feed the fold , edge upwards, into the lower access hole in the cavity - keep feeding - the tape will form a loop inside the cavity. Add a weight to a piece of string and feed into the upper access hole and allow to drop - the string will fall through the loop in the tape - pull out the tape and the string will come with it.


    When I located the metal studs they where nowhere near where I wanted to locate the TV. MDF was my last option here.

    I think I can 'borrow' some strapping tape, I have no idea but wouldn't it be easier to put the tape in the top and feed it down? That way you could use a weight and let gravity help?
  • No, the strapping is to form a loop at the bottom hole. Drop the weight on the string through the top hole, which after a couple of tries should then go through the loop, then pull the strapping loop back out and the string should come out too, like threading a needle really.

    However, if you have fibreglass insulation in the wall, then this won't work and you will need something stiff but still flexible to push down inside the wall, such as a length of mini trunking lid

    Good luck
  • xyz123
    xyz123 Posts: 1,671 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Op can't help with channel in Mdf but just a pointer in case you haven't noticed. There are hdmi connectors available with 90 deg bend, so cable doesn't have to be bent. You may not have space for these connectors but if you do have some space, it may work. Plenty on eBay and Amazon for £2/3.
  • Norman_Castle
    Norman_Castle Posts: 11,871 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    edited 24 June 2015 at 9:19AM
    Presumably there is a tv bracket fixed to the mdf. Can you add spacers between the bracket and mdf to create a gap?
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