Questions about consumer units / fuse boxes

Hello everyone. I am looking to replace my fuse box and had some questions which I hope you can help me with. If you have answer to only a select few then that's also fine - still interested to hear your opinions on the parts you know about:



1) What's a better brand, wylex or mk?!

2) How much does a "quality" unit cost? Is it around the £100 mark (for domestic / homes)

2) What is a reasonable price to pay a Part P NICEIC registered electrician for both the unit and its installation in London? Is 300 too cheap?

3) What does "dual rcd mean" as opposed to single rcd

4) What's the difference between rcd and mcb?

5) What does it mean to be compliant with bs7671

6) what does xxx way (e.g. 16 way) mean? Is that 16 switches?

7) Is there anything else salient when buying a unit that I should be aware of?
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Comments

  • as long as the board is to BS7671 then I wouldn't worry too much, I've always found MK to be better quality though.

    Around £100 is a reasonable price to pay for the unit c/w breakers, check the screwfix website

    £300 is a reasonable price for supply and fit, as long as it includes certification

    dual rcd means the board is split into 2 sections, so if one rcd trips, the other one doesn't so you don't lose everything in one go

    rcd - residual current device - detects an imbalance in the current flowing in live and neutral, and trips if there is an imbalance (e.g. leak to earth)
    mcb - miniature circuit breaker - trips if the current flows is greater than the rating (think like a fuse)

    rcd is the safer

    bs7671 is the british standard for wiring installation (IEE 17th edition)

    the number of ways is indeed the number of circuits

    would be much less trouble to go down the supply and fit route
  • Risteard
    Risteard Posts: 1,999 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    rcd is the safer

    Not for anything other than an earth fault.
    {Signature removed by Forum Team - if you are not sure why we have removed your signature please contact the Forum Team}
  • Cornucopia
    Cornucopia Posts: 16,450 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    16-way = 16 MCBs for 16 circuits. You can match the number of MCBs to the existing Consumer Unit, to ensure it's big enough (though 16 should be more than enough for an average 1-3 bed property).
  • kaya
    kaya Posts: 2,465 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    i paid £100 for mine from screwfix then £300 to have it fitted a few months back, all signed of and certified
  • jc808
    jc808 Posts: 1,756 Forumite
    be aware that non-split load boards dont comply with regs UNLESS you put RCBOs on each way - very expensive

    dont buy a board as you dont know what you want

    get the sparks to supply
  • JRT404
    JRT404 Posts: 22 Forumite
    as long as the board is to BS7671 then I wouldn't worry too much, I've always found MK to be better quality though.

    Around £100 is a reasonable price to pay for the unit c/w breakers, check the screwfix website

    £300 is a reasonable price for supply and fit, as long as it includes certification

    dual rcd means the board is split into 2 sections, so if one rcd trips, the other one doesn't so you don't lose everything in one go

    rcd - residual current device - detects an imbalance in the current flowing in live and neutral, and trips if there is an imbalance (e.g. leak to earth)
    mcb - miniature circuit breaker - trips if the current flows is greater than the rating (think like a fuse)

    rcd is the safer

    bs7671 is the british standard for wiring installation (IEE 17th edition)

    the number of ways is indeed the number of circuits

    would be much less trouble to go down the supply and fit route


    Thanks - very useful information.
    In terms of rcd vs mcb then. Should I think of mcb as each individual switch on the board while rcd is the big switch that turns a set of switches off?

    When you say "as long as it includes certification" do you mean getting an EICR certification? I.e. Should I be expecting them to also include the periodic report (electrical installation certificate) also as part of changing the fuse box?
  • JRT404
    JRT404 Posts: 22 Forumite
    jc808 wrote: »
    be aware that non-split load boards dont comply with regs UNLESS you put RCBOs on each way - very expensive

    dont buy a board as you dont know what you want

    get the sparks to supply

    What is a non split load board? Do you mean single rcd?

    What is an RCBO aswell please?
  • JRT404
    JRT404 Posts: 22 Forumite
    kaya wrote: »
    i paid £100 for mine from screwfix then £300 to have it fitted a few months back, all signed of and certified

    Was the certificate an EICR or just a certificate saying it had been installed ?
  • JRT404
    JRT404 Posts: 22 Forumite
    Any more opinions on wylex vs mk please ?
  • Ectophile
    Ectophile Posts: 7,896 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    edited 29 May 2015 at 9:13PM
    You should get an EIC (electrical installation certificate) when something new is installed. An EICR is a report on an existing installation.

    A quick guide to the jargon:

    MCB = Miniature Circuit Breaker. Acts like a fuse to prevent overloads and fires, but unlike a fuse you can turn it on again.

    RCD = Residual Current Device. They used to call them "Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker", but someone decided to change the name to something that nobody would understand. Stops you being electrocuted if you accidentally touch something live, by shutting off the power very quickly.

    RCBO = Residual Current Breaker With Overload. Another over-complicated name for something that's just an RCD and an MCB in the same module.

    Modern consumer units should either have two (or more) RCDs, each protecting some of the circuits*, or lots of RCBOs. Or even a mixture of the two - provided that every circuit goes through an RCD or RCBO.

    If you have an electrician in mind, you may want to ask them what they would prefer to install. Electricians hate it when customers hand them cheap and shoddy kit to install. They may even be able to get a trade discount if they buy it themselves.

    *That's what a "split load" board is. If all the circuits are on one RCD, then one fault blacks out the whole house and you're left stumbling around in the dark trying to find what tripped it.
    If it sticks, force it.
    If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.
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