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mist coating?

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brooklyn07
brooklyn07 Posts: 170 Forumite
Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
I had my room plastered over a week ago ceiling and walls and have been doing some research on how to apply a mist coat.


there seems to be lots of conflicting advice online bout how much water to add to the emulsion but luckily the emulsion I bought told me how much water to add - 40%.


So I applied one coat of this last night and well, it doesn't look great... some parts look almost see through and some parts look like I've just painted with normal white emulsion - no see through just white. There are also a lot of roller marks everywhere...


Also on some parts of the plaster where there seem to be "runs" in the plaster, like drip marks, the paint hasn't even touched these and they are still visible - how could I tackle these?


Is the above normal? how many coats of mist should I be applying? how can I tell if I have applied it correctly, would it be cracking by now if I had done it wrong?


Sorry for all the questions I just don't want to mess it up!

Comments

  • Doozergirl
    Doozergirl Posts: 34,075 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    The mist coat is supposed to look like that! The mist coat is there just for the wall to soak up that extra water mixed in rather than suck it all out of the thicker paint.

    The plaster isn't supposed to have drip marks in it though? Good plastering should feel almost like glass to the touch.
    Everything that is supposed to be in heaven is already here on earth.
  • brooklyn07
    brooklyn07 Posts: 170 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    yeah it does feel really glassy and smooth but I dint really notice the drip marks until I attempted to paint over them and now they stick out like a sore thumb!
  • DRP
    DRP Posts: 4,287 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    First make sure mist coat is well mixed before use.

    We had those drips on fresh plaster (maybe PVA or similar that the plasterer used?) and they're difficult to cover but you'll just have to keep applying fresh coats until they do...
  • Doozergirl
    Doozergirl Posts: 34,075 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    You could run some very find sandpaper over the areas that really haven't taken. It could be PVA. I'd rather get it off.
    Everything that is supposed to be in heaven is already here on earth.
  • zaax
    zaax Posts: 1,913 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Sounds like the plaster is not fully dry, a week is a bit early. Give it six weeks to dry properly.
    Do you want your money back, and a bit more, search for 'money claim online' - They don't like it up 'em Captain Mainwaring
  • brooklyn07
    brooklyn07 Posts: 170 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    wow six weeks really? plasterer said 4 days and max of a week should be sufficient! they were only skimmed not knocked back to render....
  • DRP
    DRP Posts: 4,287 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    brooklyn07 wrote: »
    wow six weeks really? plasterer said 4 days and max of a week should be sufficient! they were only skimmed not knocked back to render....

    What was it skimmed onto?

    In my old Victorian house, it took a lot longer to dry than 4 days , and various areas (fireplace, around a window) took a long time for the colour to mature to the very light pink. I waited for that to happen then an extra few weeks to a month..... and then painted! ;)
  • Furts
    Furts Posts: 4,474 Forumite
    brooklyn07 wrote: »
    wow six weeks really? plasterer said 4 days and max of a week should be sufficient! they were only skimmed not knocked back to render....

    With a skim it should be OK for painting after a few days, particularly with the warmer weather now.

    Your marks could be PVA if this was coated on before the skim, or if could be imperfections from the old plaster walls. This depends what condition they were in. A scim is only a few millimetres thick so if the old walls were bad you may not have excellent walls now. Your new paint may also be lifting off the scim if, and where, where it feathers out to no thickness.
  • brooklyn07
    brooklyn07 Posts: 170 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    DRP wrote: »
    What was it skimmed onto?

    In my old Victorian house, it took a lot longer to dry than 4 days , and various areas (fireplace, around a window) took a long time for the colour to mature to the very light pink. I waited for that to happen then an extra few weeks to a month..... and then painted! ;)

    it was skimmed onto plasterboard in one place above the bay and then the rest of the walls were old grey plaster that had various holes and cracks in so only option was to skim over but it wasn't a thick layer just a surface skim....


    the whole room was a very light pink before I started painting.
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