Removing plaster from a fragile internal wall

alberty

Have some builders in at the moment installing an en-suite shower in a very small former boiler cupboard, which is located between a bedroom and a bathroom. There is a thick layer of plaster which I wanted to remove to save space, and replace with 8mm PVC panels directly on the walls.

Problem is the plaster is tightly bonded to the internal walls which are quite thin and brittle. Is there a tool, eg an angle-grinder which could remove plaster without the need for hammering? The wall is 70cm wide and 240cm tall.

Builders have said it's difficult to remove the plaster without breaking apart the wall, but I would like to know if it's a fair ask! Please see pics.

Doozergirl

Please tell me that shower tray isn't fitted.

You can't get plaster off with an angle grinder, that's ridiculous. If it isn't a brick or block wall then it is either attached to lathe or to plasterboard. Either way, remove the lot back to the studwork and then reboard with 6mm hardiebacker cement board.

You'll spend more money faffing about than doing it properly.

alberty

Thanks, its some kind of block wall made of ashy grey gravel textured material. I am paying for a good job, that's why I'm asking here whether it can be removed when they say it can't.

brightontraveller

Yes lots use a grinder most "diamond cups" but loads on the market probably go for less maybe stone or brick cups as diamond will go through flatten and take anything off including steel ....
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=diamond+cup+wheel&tbm=isch&imgil=Cfzj1DPIuJVgdM%253A%253BtAu1hl_iIm19AM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fstependou.com%25252Findex.php%25253FcPath%2525253D91_109&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Cfzj1DPIuJVgdM%253A%252CtAu1hl_iIm19AM%252C_&usg=__w9XIaxk-kDBqBXuXAooZQBAYoJc%3D&biw=1024&bih=639&ved=0CDQQyjc&ei=khsoVe7QNKjX7QaHyYCQAg#imgrc=RKwYqI-IJgf0iM%253A%3BJLXtL3f2ddDKvM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.homedepot.com%252Fcatalog%252FproductImages%252F300%252F66%252F66631e38-83f3-4070-aeee-d42f66eae4bb_300.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.homedepot.com%252Fp%252FRIDGID-4-in-Double-Row-Diamond-Cup-Wheel-HD-AWD40%252F202884364%3B300%3B300

Chemicals but there pretty toxic, sand blast (if its soft brick then nutshells) quick but messy, cheapest hammer + bolster time consuming, There are also rakes etc but they take a bit to get used to either builder doesn't want to do it doesn't know there stuff and if there in construction and don't know what tools to use to make things flat or remove layers etc you wonder what they do when they come across them ,,,

andyhop

They look like concrete block, you wont get the plaster off

The tray looks bodged, sitting on thin plywood and the wrapper appears to be intact on the sides

Tray should be bonded to the floor on mortar or tile adhesive

The laminate boards should sit on top of the tray and not behind.

If your paying for a good job I'd suggest finding a installer that knows what they are doing !

brightontraveller

Doozergirl wrote: »

Please tell me that shower tray isn't fitted.

You can't get plaster off with an angle grinder, that's ridiculous. If it isn't a brick or block wall then it is either attached to lathe or to plasterboard. Either way, remove the lot back to the studwork and then reboard with 6mm hardiebacker cement board.

You'll spend more money faffing about than doing it properly.

Really you should try it...? Use the correct ones there great to remove plaster, level,/flatten walls floors, concrete, bricks sticking out, [FONT=&quot] replace old [/FONT][FONT=&quot] local [/FONT][FONT=&quot]made bricks matching colour is hard with size nearly impossible,,, You can grind [FONT=&quot]new[/FONT] brick down in seconds to match [/FONT]etc there use is wide, there cost is low, I'd say there an essential bit of kit ?

Its the best tool to use for those that love industrial/old,new world look bricks showing ,Ditto chimney breasts, feature, focal points. Done in plenty of highend conversion in low end buildings,,,,, Its often cheaper to do which is a bonus ...

southcoastrgi

they are cinder blocks & yes they will fall apart if you hit them too much,

you will make a right mess getting the plaster off,

I'm not sure why the tray has been fitted before the walls are stripped ?

not sure why the waste is at the back rather than the front either, if it leaks or you need to replace it then the tray will have to come out,

I don't know about you wanting a decent job because from those pics it looks a total bodge up so far

brightontraveller

southcoastrgi wrote: »

I'm not sure why the tray has been fitted before the walls are stripped ?

not sure why the waste is at the back rather than the front either, if it leaks or you need to replace it then the tray will have to come out,

I don't know about you wanting a decent job because from those pics it looks a total bodge up so far

They may have just stuck it in to see if it even fits looks pretty tight already among other things ???

traineepensioner

You'll really struggle trying to get the plaster off that cinder block wall.....I know because I tried to do this with mine.

You'll probably find that the wall is only tied to the adjoining wall by a strip of mortar, which eventually loosens. The cinder wall is usually only 3" thick, which doesn't leave much room to rebuild.

I would be tempted to replace the cinder wall with a stud & hardibacker wall. Messy & more costly but better in the long run.

southcoastrgi

brightontraveller wrote: »

They may have just stuck it in to see if it even fits looks pretty tight already among other things ???

that's what they invented tape measures for

alberty

I would have had a careful go at the plaster myself if I had an angle grinder and cutting wheel, but I caved in and let them just skim it. Rebuilding the wall is out of budget.

Thanks for the other good points about leaving the plastic wrapper on when they fitted the tray, doesn't seem right! -and yes it was fitted on 1cm plywood but I hope that's enough given it is on top of 18mm floorboards and floor joists.. I was told there are also 'noggins' underneath for support. The location of the waste may have been forced by the location of the floors joists, not sure though!