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Replacement wheel nut removal tool?
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did the garage service the car before you bought it? or do a mythical 10084 points check?
ask them where they put the key .0 -
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this ones better https://youtu.be/jHYrn6F4_LI0
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so they keep all the wheel nut keys they forget to give back to their customers
No, they get them from the local scrap yards......... Which is probably also where they get some of their part worn tyres from.“I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”
<><><><><><><><><<><><><><><><><><><><><><> Don't forget to like and subscribe \/ \/ \/0 -
We couldn't find ours. We phoned the seat dealer who's name was stamped in the service book as the first servicer and they sorted us a replacement for £10 including postage despite the car being an 03 plate. Turned out they'd supplied it new and had all the codes and key info on file.
I'm assuming ford will have record of the locking nut number, especially the dealer who sold it new.0 -
I'm assuming ford will have record of the locking nut number, especially the dealer who sold it new.
Every Ford dealer in the world will have that info - all it needs is the VIN Nr. or the registration number.
Every manufacturer has a similar data base including radio codes, key codes etc.
£10 is about right for a replacement locking nut tool.
In many cases it's cheaper and easier going to the dealer, than using brute force and ignorance.
Too many folks have the idea that all dealer prices are rip-offs.
Some makes have tools that are a bit fragile and bits break off - certgainly LandRover ones surprisingly are.
So the missing tool may have broken and been chucked away - as opposed to simply being lost/misplaced.
It's not helped by most people grossly over-tightening wheel nuts/bolts on alloy wheels when they do by feel alone. I've even seen people stand on the wheel nut wrench - 'Just to make sure.'
Alloy wheels are normally tightened to a lower torque than steel wheels
If you use a correctly set torque wrench it's often a surprise how easy it is to slacken the nuts off and so think that they were under-tightened.
Of course most of the 'spotty yoofs' at tyre dealers cant be bothered even using a torque wrench - never mind setting it to the correct torque for the particular car they are working on.0 -
Always assuming the same hasn't happened before, and the locking nuts haven't already been changed.
Of course that is a possibility - but the complete set of locking nuts and their matching tool should never need to be totally changed.
You can buy a single locking nut/bolt if need be.
As I said my Freelander ones were very weak - a bit like Trigger's Broom in fact - over the 8 years I had it I needed 3 new tools and one new bolt.
Perhaps with hindsight, it might have been cheaper to have replaced them at the first signs of weakness with a stronger alternative.
Or scrap the security all together - do the scrotes still steal alloy wheels from non-luxury older cars?0
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