Strange but true...

HoolyNI

BT would have wired the house up originally and the master socket has their logo on it, thats why I thought it was their property.

Am pretty sure there is a bell wire attached from memory...

Am experimenting with it now, took face plate off and connected filter and extension to sky hd box to the test socket, but that dropped my connection to router upstairs...will move router downstairs and hook it up to the test socket and see what that does.

HoolyNI

Have removed the orange and white bell wire leads from sockets 3 & 4 on my hard wired extension, with no real noticeable improvement to connection there, although that was where i'm getting my best speeds anyway.

The master socket seems a total mishmash of wires with an orange/white and a blue lead in socket 4 and an orange/white and white lead in socket 3....should i remove just the orange/white leads from sockets 3&4 or remove all leads from those two sockets?

HoolyNI

This is a pic of how master socket is currently wired, anything there I can change that might improve connection?

iniltous

HoolyNI wrote: »

This is a pic of how master socket is currently wired, anything there I can change that might improve connection?

The panel suspended by cables is the 'consumer panel' and the cables are your responsibility and should run to extension sockets that are also yours even if originally installed by BT, all of this is your responsibility, and chargeable if OR come out to look at faults on this
the detached panel exposes the test socket , and if this is your master socket , plugging your router in here gives the best speed, then whatever the issue is it isn't OR responsibility to fix coz they only fix upto the test socket.
Your panel isn't wired for optimum broadband performance, so when you reassemble the socket it connects your wiring to the OR line and your sync speed with deteriorate because of the state of the extension wiring and possibly the filters, Sky boxes etc that you have plugged in
You don't need the wires in '3' and '4' , but if you disconnect them you also need to disconnect 3 and 4 at the sockets the cables run to as well

HoolyNI

I thought the test socket should have given the best speed too, but it doesn't.....if I plug the router into the master socket i get around 2 mbs, the test socket its around 5mbs and get 7mb if router is wired to the extension upstairs, also get the best wifi if router is upstairs so i think powerline adaptors might the way to go...

iniltous

With the consumer panel removed like in the picture does the socket with better speed have dialtone, or do you only have dialtone at that socket when the consumer panel is plugged into the body of the socket ?, if it has service regardless of the consumer panel being plugged in or not, then your wiring isn't correct, and it isn't the master socket even though it looks like one, if the better socket only has service when the consumer panel is attached , which is what you would expect with an extension socket, then you have a bit of a mystery, as it would seem to defy logic that if wired correctly the master socket test port could be worse than an extension run from it,
I take it all your results quote the speed the router is connecting and not the speed your devices achieve connecting wirelessly to the router

kwikbreaks

If that was mine I'd remove all the wires then connect up just the white/ blues to #2 and blue/whites to #5 (or vice versa) then take a trip to each extension and do the same at that end. That way you know it's correct. Ideally use a Krone tool although I've got away with careful use of a credit card in the past. Do not use any metallic tool or you'll mess up the connector blades for sure. When taking the current wires out pull them gently upwards holding the wire either side of the connector.

What you need to be sure of is that only wires from a twisted pair go to #2 and #5. By convention the blue and white ones get used for that job with an orange/white as the bell wire.

HoolyNI

Will wait till I have proper tool because am worried if i botch it i'l end up with no phone line at all, at least at minute extension upstairs gives acceptable speed for my needs...when faceplate removed only get power from the test socket as extension stops working. Have a 2nd hard wired extension upstairs but access to it is blocked at the minute by a wardrobe, but from memory it always gave good enough speeds in old dial-up days.