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replacing coving and pulling my hair out

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replacing coving in the kitchen and the corners are not butting up nicely. we know no room is truely square! hubby comfuzing me i'm comfuzing him! we do all our own diy with no probs! this has stumped us! he has just ripped down all we done today and blamed me for wanted it ( typical man) any hints other than getting the big guys in!! yes we have been using mitre block!!
just wanted to get it of my chest arhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!! thats a bit better think i stay out of his way fo a bit ha ha ha let him clear up!!
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  • vansboy
    vansboy Posts: 6,483 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    Before all your hairs gone, I'd agree with hubby & NOT have it. Not 'cos of the awkward fitting it, but I prefer square & neat joins - but thats just my taste!

    But if you're doing it the way you should, with th mitreblock, then it's the walls fault, not anyone elses!

    Can't you just neatly fill, whatever gap is left - must be the easiest solution!!

    VB
  • kymrob
    kymrob Posts: 411 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker Mortgage-free Glee!
    he want to replace it just as much to hide the last coving marks. he is a perfectist he will not fill big gaps! we done all the skirting in the same room with no problems fitted lovely. i think we will give up for today and try again soon but dreading it!!!
  • startrekker
    startrekker Posts: 1,162 Forumite
    Before you pull all your hair out.:eek:

    I have put up a few rooms full of coving. This is how I did it.

    1. Mix some plaster (same consistency as if you wrer going to plaster a wall) which is what you are going to use to fix the coving to the wall.

    2. Score and Pva the ceiling and the wall, at the points where the coving will meet it.

    3. Apply the plaster to the edges of the coving and push into place and hold (or you can pin it.) Where the walls run out excess plaster will squeeze out and you simply wipe off with a damp cloth.

    4. The next piece of coving apply tro the edges and also to the end of the mitred joint and offer it to the wall. Again, where the wall and joint runs out the excess plaster will ooze out and you wipe it off, taking more care at the mitred joint as where it is more gappy you will be moulding it to the shape of the joint.

    Worked for me every time......By the way, I got the idea from a proper plasterer as I watched him doing it many years ago at our house.....
    :confused:I have nothing better to do!!!!:confused:
  • ifti
    ifti Posts: 349 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    hi,

    sorry to high jack this thread, but we need to put up one small peice of coving in a area, can we use no nails as its less than a meter.

    thanks.
  • startrekker
    startrekker Posts: 1,162 Forumite
    ifti wrote: »
    hi,

    sorry to high jack this thread, but we need to put up one small peice of coving in a area, can we use no nails as its less than a meter.

    thanks.

    Suppose you could, after all, it will stick it in place........
    :confused:I have nothing better to do!!!!:confused:
  • cargo
    cargo Posts: 462 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Tile ahdesive works well.
    Also dry line ahdesive.
  • fatnbald
    fatnbald Posts: 302 Forumite
    kymrob wrote: »
    replacing coving in the kitchen and the corners are not butting up nicely. we know no room is truely square! hubby comfuzing me i'm comfuzing him! we do all our own diy with no probs! this has stumped us! he has just ripped down all we done today and blamed me for wanted it ( typical man) any hints other than getting the big guys in!! yes we have been using mitre block!!
    just wanted to get it of my chest arhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!! thats a bit better think i stay out of his way fo a bit ha ha ha let him clear up!!

    If it is the joints you are struggling with then you need a special mitre block for coving - is that what you have?

    If you use a standard one you will end up with eliptical joins with gaps in the middle and touching top and bottom on an inside joint and the reverse on an outside joint
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  • kymrob
    kymrob Posts: 411 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker Mortgage-free Glee!
    yes thanks going to local b and q tomorrow!
  • reply-16x16.gif
    Put temporary nails in the wall around a metre spacing to support the coving until it sets, the size down from the ceiling (where the nails go is important) it will depend on the size of the coving 4" 5" or 6" there should be instructions in the box, and that size will be given, use a paper template these are more accurate than a mitre block, If it's 5" get one from here

    http://www.bpbartex.co.uk/pdf/artex/Fitting Instructions/127 Cove Cutting Template.pdf

    You can use artex as an adhesive I use no nails solvent free, and use artex mixed thick for all the joints, use an old plastic card it will bend better when doing corners, fill joints twice.

    Joining coving should be carried out further into the room and not near doors where it is more noticeable, leave a 5mm gap when joining straight lenghts, If the gyproc is crushed the joins will be harder to fill and finish.

    Keep the bottom edge of the coving level, the top is less important

    Keep the face of the material clean !

    Sand the joins & corners lightly with p120 sandpaper when dry.
  • Hello, it may be that your coving has a wall edge and a ceiling edge get one of these mixed up and it will NOT go up neatly. If I remember rightly it tells you which way up on the back of the coving.
    Keep calm, tomorrow is another day and it will be fine.
    HTH take care, ILA
    I live in a small drinking town with a fishing problem
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